Today we’re diving back into the world of the classic cocktail. One that actually has a small tie to Tiki, being one of the only non-tiki drinks offered on Trader Vic’s menu. Having turned legal drinking age in 2001 I was mainly exposed early and often to the residual darkness of 1990’s mixed drinks. My taste for individual spirits was a bit more refined. I knew I liked Scotch, working my way through the blends eventually finding my way to single malts, and Vodka Martinis were always very popular. In fact, I recall as early as my mid-twenties throwing Martini parties for my friends. These mostly consisted of various flavored varieties till I moved on to straight up vodka and vermouth. The purist that I was, even as a novice moppet of a drinker, took me to the gin Martini. The delicate balance of juniper and vermouth ignited a newfound love in me for this classic cocktail royalty.
But, that’s pretty much where I stayed on gin. Later I would rediscover the spirit via Tiki, in drinks like the Royal Hawaiian and Suffering Bastard. The first time I remember having today’s drink though was in a bar here in Nashville with my wife. It was sweltering Tennessee summer and while we waited for our table at a boutique burger joint on 12th South we had a hankering for a cocktail that was light and summery while still elegant and classy. My wife suggested a drink that I had heard of, maybe even tried at some point, but had slipped my memory.
It was perfect. It fit the bill right where we needed it to. Somewhere between light and fruity-tart with an air of simple complexity exhibited by the rare few cocktails that have sustained the test of time and taste.
Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony, and this is Pod Tiki. Where today we travel to my ethnic homeland of Italy to drink and learn all about the Negroni!
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Now, I’ve made a few references already to the Negroni as a summery drink. This I find to be most true due to the light, fruity, bitter-sweet profile. It’s the perfect spring cocktail as it bridges the gap between the warming nature of bourbons and/or heavy sipping rums into the brighter floral notes associated with mercury rising. In my humble opinion every drink has an occasion and every occasion calls for a drink. The floral bitter notes of gin and Campari remind us of nascent bursts of spring blooms, while rosso vermouth adds a sweetness that takes us out of dark nights huddled in the living room and out to patio afternoons. The time of year when Manhattans, Sazeracs, and Martinis give way to Diaquiris, Mojitos, and Mai Tai’s.
That being said, the Negroni is quite versatile as well. As the case with many drinks having their roots as an aperitif, Negronis can truly be enjoyed any time of day. Bright enough to enjoy at elevenses, simple enough for happy hour, cordial enough for after dinner, and strong enough to trip the light fantastic.
In Men Without Women Hemingway wrote that a defining quality of the Italian is their propensity for self-preservation. I can attest to this, being the grandson of Italian immigrants, and having preserved myself these 42 years. Though, sometimes I feel more pickled than preserved. The Negroni has also managed to preserve itself for a remarkably long time.
A common mistake, and one I admittedly made myself, is associating the Negroni with Prohibition era cocktails. So where did this recently revived classic come from, and when?
In order to fully understand the Negroni, let's break down its components. Gin, Italian red Vermouth, and Campari. We’ve covered gin a few times in past episodes, but a note from its history that’s pertinent for this episode is that although most people may associate gin with Jenever from Holland, or even London Dry, this floral juniper forward spirit originated in southern Italy way back in the 10th century. The Dutch perfected the spirit which made its way to England during the reign of Dutch born William of Orange. As a tangent, it was the Dutch who financed a bunch of French merchant ships and Privateers during the golden age of piracy. Simply speculation, but perhaps this is how gin found its way to the Caribbean and subsequently into some of our favorite Tiki drinks.
As well, we’ve covered Italian Vermouth before but again, its origin is specifically germane to today’s drink. Hailing from 18th century Turin, Italy, red, or rosso vermouth is a fortified wine product that began as an aperitif, there’s that word again, before becoming a popular cocktail ingredient. The two main versions of vermouth are the dryer, white French style and the red sweeter option from Italy. In our modern times both regions make a respectable white and red. It is notable though that the term vermouth is the French pronunciation of Wermut, the German word for wormwood, a common ingredient in vermouth throughout the ages. Keeping with today’s theme and the historically agreed upon recipe the Negroni uses sweet rosso Italian.
Like most gustatory perceptions and epicurean sanctimony the term “sweet” is relative. A perceived note of sweetness in a particular tobacco or spirit is primarily the sensation of the sweet detecting taste buds being activated in such a way reminiscent to the brain of saccharine sensation. A sip of Vermouth rosso will taste sweet after a sip of French Chambery Blanc, but gets lost in a bite of tiramisu. The candle that lights the room disappears when held in front of a 4D Maglight. Okay, that’s enough mastabatory metaphor from me.
That brings us to the star of the show, Campari. What is it? Where does it come from? And, most importantly, why is it so delicious?
First, let’s briefly cover aperitifs and digestifs. Should be pretty self-explanatory, but just to be diligent. An aperitif is a usually dryer than sweet alcoholic spirit sipped before a meal to stimulate the appetite. Conversely, a digestif usually denotes a sweeter drink enjoyed post meal-time to aid in digestion. That’s pretty much where hard definitions end. Each can be anything from cordials and liqueurs, to Champagne or brandies. There’s no rules! To make it more open to interpretation most aperitifs and digestifs can be swapped for each other. Personally, if you’re handing me a delicious alcoholic beverage before and after a good meal I’m gonna enjoy whatever it is. While we’re on the topic, this got me thinking about what my ideal dinner drink menu would look like. I have settled on a Campari when I sit down, red wine with food, espresso followed by Amaretto or limoncello with dessert, and a Manhattan with my cigar afterwards. Shout out to E3, Moto, and Kayne Prime, the restaurants my wife and I go to for special occasions here in Nashville.
All this to say Campari was initially intended as an aperitif, though technically it’s a bitter. Campari is made by infusing a base spirit with water, fruit, and herbs. Some common ingredients are cascarilla, a croton species native to the Caribbean and Chinotto, a small citrus fruit found in Italy that resembles a small bitter orange. A similarity to Curacao oranges comes to mind. Originally Campari received its cherry red color from carmine dye, derived from crushed cochineal insects. Surprisingly this practice lasted till 2006, now the company uses a lab created dye.
Campari was invented in 1860 in Novara, Italy by Gaspare Campari. The first major Campari production facility opened almost fifty years later in 1904 under Gaspare’s son Davide. Today Campari is a worldwide spirits producer and distributor and has become a drink synonymous with Italian cocktailing culture. Despite the negroni and a cocktail resurgence making it famous, Campari has enjoyed a renewed appreciation among craft cocktail enthusiasts around the world. Bitter-sweet, fruity, and quite palatable on any occasion, Campari maintains its relevance and importance as the only fruit-based bitter acceptable for use in the Negroni. Dare I say, the Negroni is one of a few cocktails wherein a “mixer” is more essential to the anatomy of the drink than the spirit. Because although rum, rye, and vodka versions exist, Campari is always a constant in preparing a Negroni.
So, what is it? A negroni is classically equal parts gin, Italian vermouth rosso, and Campari. Which brings us to, where did it come from? Ahhh, if there’s one thing we’ve learned together on this cocktalian adventure that is Pod Tiki, it’s that no drink worth its ABV is without disputed origins.
Much like the Daiquiri or Margarita, we have three ingredients common to a certain time and place that intuitively go together. Floral-sweet-bitter. This is a flavor profile we find in nature all the time. And if it’s good enough for Big Momma Natty, who can argue? But where the Daiquiri and Margarita warrant only speculation regarding early attempts we actually have documentation of a drink called the Campari Mixte from the L’heure du Cocktail in 1929 which is equal parts gin, Campari, and Italian vermouth with lemon zest.
That may have been a coincidental similarity seeing as how a myriad of Negroni-adjacent mixes were popping up in French and Spanish cocktail guides throughout the 40’s. Most notably the Camparinete, a mix of ¼ Campari, ¼ vermouth, and ½ gin. Not a bad recipe but one that does throw the delicate natural balance a little off kilter.
The first printed recipes of a Negroni came in 1955. Both The UKBG Guide to Drinks, (United Kingdom Bartender’s Guild), and Cocktail and Oscar Haimo’s Wine Digest, from the U.S. published the Negroni by name. And as we all learned in Philosophy a Negroni is a Negroni is a Negroni by any other name is still a Negroni. Or, to quote The Matrix, there is no Negroni.
Facts notwithstanding, because it’s 2022, who cares about facts, the popular story told around the origin of the Negroni is one of the most scintillating we’ve covered to date.
Picture it, 1919, Florence, Italy at the Caffe Giacosa. Bartender Fosco Scarselli is wiping out glasses while chatting with a few locals elbowed up to the bar. The Popular drink of the time was a mix of Campari from Milan, and Amaro from Turin. In one of the greatest bursts of creativity history has ever witnessed this drink was called - the Milano-Turino. This was invented at the Caffe Camparino in Milan which was owned by none other than Gaspare Campari. He just loved putting his name on stuff. Imagine if he paired up with Italian car companies, we may have the Campari Ferrari. Or, if he was a game designer, the Campari Atari. But, I digress. Campari where-are-we? Oh, back in Florence.
In the back of Caffe Giacosa Giuseppe and Pasquale are arguing over the gravy.
“Giuseppe, you didina put ina nuffa da garlic!”
“Pasquale, I put ina nuffa da garlic. You watcha me putta ina!”
“Giuseppe, stunad, I watcha you putta no garlic in!”
From the front of the house they hear Fosco yelling back, “Mamamia! You two shuduppa you fasa. The Count isa coming!”
Enter Count Camillo Negroni. He strides gracefully up to the bar greeting patrons along the way. His favorite drink was the Americano, a Milano-Turino with the addition of soda water. This is said to have gotten its name from American tourists whose apparently delicate palates needed to water down the bitter liquids.
“Well, I say, Fosco, this is some fine swill you got here. A bit tough on the tongue, though. How boutta spritz to lighten the mood ol’ pal?”
Conversely, Count Negroni was feeling spicy on this day. He asked Fosco to give his Americano some more moxy. Perhaps to show up the Americans.
“Fosco, dissa drinka, issa how you saya, wimpy wimpy.”
To strengthen up the Counts drink Fosco swapped soda water for Gin. From that day forward that was all Count Camillo Negroni drank. Other folks liked it so much they would ask for one of Count Negronis drinks, and eventually simply a Negroni.
That is a perfect origin story, and I’m inclined to believe it’s true. But some in the Negroni family challenge its veracity. In a heated debate Colonel Hector Andres Negroni argues there is no Camillo Negroni in the Negroni family tree. He is quoted as saying, “You believe this shit? Whatsa matta you, you some kinda mamaluke?” And I just made that quote up. But, he does state that the true inventor of the Negroni was one General Pascal Oliver Compte de Negroni. The Colonel left this remark as an Amazon comment under Luca Picchi’s book - Sulle Tracce del Conte: La Vera Storia del Cocktail Negroni. Picchi was a longtime bartender at an establishment down the street from Caffe Giacosa and is said to be an expert on the matter. So, perhaps Colonel Hector Andres Negroni is just another crazy Amazon reviewer. He probably only left one star.
Personally, I’m cool with a healthy level of intrigue behind my cocktail origin stories. No harm, no foul. And in the end we reap the benefits of a great drink.
Now we’ve come to the part of the podcast where I can hear Count Negroni yelling at me, “Tony, enuffa da yappa yappa. Letsa maka de drinka!”
Once we have our Campari we’ll need to select an Italian vermouth. I suggest something better than the cheap Martini & Rossi. If you want to splurge on the $30 bottle that’s up to you, but even a small step up goes a long way. I went with a $10 bottle of …. The difference in just a little better vermouth is noticeable. It’s a fortified wine, like Port, so it should have that deep rich wine flavor. The cheaper stuff tends to be a bit light and won’t balance out the bitter and floral notes of the other ingredients. Just remember as a wine product vermouth does need to be refrigerated after opening to preserve freshness.
Which brings us to Gin. Personally, I think the Brits have perfected Gin with their London Dry. It’s floral and herbaceous without losing the body of a good spirit. Some of these modern riffs go too overboard on the juniper and herbs resulting in a potpourri taste. And despite my Italian heritage I don’t want my Negroni tasting like my grandma’s house. One of my favorite new rum distilleries, Privateer, is releasing an American gin this year which I am very excited about, but I don’t have any on hand just yet. I can’t wait to get my hands on some though and try it in this drink and some gin based tiki favorites.
Preparation for the Negroni is super simple. In a cocktail beaker pour:
1 oz Campari
1 oz Italian Sweet Vermouth
1 oz Gin
Fill halfway with ice and stir till glass frosts over. You’ll notice the ice start to loosen up and stir easier, that’s when it’s properly diluted. Open strain into a rocks glass and add one large ice cube. I prefer this to “on the rocks” as that tends to dilute the drink too quickly. Garnish with a … well, that’s the other debate. Some use a lemon twist and others use orange peel. Both are acceptable as lemon is used in a lot of Italian drinks, think limoncello, and orange has ties to gin being linked with the aforementioned Dutch Duke of Orange. Remember it was the Dutch who gave us orange curacao from their Caribbean colonization.
The drink should have a burnt reddish hue. Vermillion but with a hint of rust if you’re using good vermouth. The flavor is cloying sweet like candy but still with a pleasant high bitterness. Odd for not containing any added sweetener. If a good fresh Italian vermouth is used the notes of dark fruity fortified wine seeps through. All amalgamated by the high floralacity of London Dry gin. Who’s dryness also helps to balance out the bitter campari and sweet vermouth.
And there you have it, folks. The Negroni is in the books. A bitter fruity floral cocktail to help ease us into summer drinking. Heck, make a batch of it for your next BBQ or pool party. It’s a crowd pleaser and you could even add a little San Pellegrino to make it a spritzer. I’ll allow it this one time. Over the course of the last 10 years the Negroni has been more popular than ever and even has a dedicated week. Usually in mid-september social media and craft bars around the country take place in celebrating Negroni week!
So, here’s to a great drink with a great story and a great summer! I leave you with a real quote from Orson Welles. “The bitters are excellent for your liver, the gin is bad for you. They balance each other.”
Credits: Negroni Story: by Simon Difford - diffordsguide.com, Wikipedia.
No Italians were harmed in the making of this podcast. The author, Anthony Manfetano is in fact Italian-American and reserves the right to poke fun at his own stereotypes.
Follow Pod Tiki on instagram @pod_tiki and @rum_poet, Youtube at Pod Tiki and always at podtiki.com for all episodes and recipes.
My name is Tony, and this is Pod Tiki. Until next time, don’t forget to stir the gravy and - Keepi Tiki!
“Giuseppe, you dranka my negroni!”
“Pasquale, I didina toucha your negroni!”
“Mamamia!”