Pod Tiki: Martini Part 2

Picture we’re on a cruise. Not one of those giant miracles of maritime engineering that slowly ply the waters between Port Canaveral and Nassau with a belly full of pudgy redfaced four-day colonizers. It’s a smaller, old fashioned style ship and we’re leaning with an elbow on the rail overlooking an azure sea. Small surface undulations like flustered little ripples up close become a static pattern at large. Similar to the way that forest sounds harmonize to a pleasant cacophony. In Caribbean dusk our suits of beige linen cover the sweat marks of our dress shirts. Rather, yours does. Mine is folded over my other arm, tie loosened and top button unfastened for the heat that now dissipates ever-so-slightly as the sun winks its final burnt-orange goodnight over the horizon. Some of the other passengers wave goodbye to it as we sail away leaving it to the next group of hapless bastards gravitationally glued to this spinning rock. I turn to look towards the dark night ahead. “Don’t you wanna see the sunset?”, you ask. “I’m okay”, I reply, “I’ve seen enough beautiful goodbye’s to last a lifetime. I’ll keep looking this way till she comes back around.” Presently, the jazz trio in the corner of the open air deck picked up a Thelonius Monk tune. I looked to the Copacabana style bar. A few blades of thatch straw hung listless over a mahogany bartop with gold trim. A few well dressed gals were courting a good time at one corner while an older couple picked at pretzels occasionally laughing a little too loudly. The fella behind the bar spins a bar spoon in a mixing glass with one hand while shaking a silver tin in the other. Nice enough guy, I’ll have to remember to tip better next time. But, he wasn’t the reason I knew this tune. What was it? So familiar. I don’t know if I recognized the tune or smelled her perfume first but, when I did, it hit me instantly. This was the melody playing in the background the first time I saw her behind the bar at that underground jazz joint in the city. She wore cropped blonde hair encircling the biggest gray-blue eyes. Eyes reminiscent of shallow ocean limpidity. Eyes that purveyed more emotion in one glance than I do believe my little heart can hold in a lifetime. She walked in slow motion, her hips writhing with every step under that tight floral dress. Navy blue with pink and yellow orchids. Her golden hair was longer now and twisted up over her head like a halo. My heart felt like to stop right there but I managed to look away for a moment to say to you, “Alright, buddy. Time to scram. I’ll catch up with you.” When she made her final approach, coming to a halt, bouncing in all the right places, she looked at my hand. Not the one bent over the rail, the one with my coat slung over it, no, the one holding a coup glass with an olive sunk into the crystal liquid. In her flirtiest ‘I do what I want’ tone she asked, “How about getting one of those for me?” 

I tip my panama hat to the boys in the band as we amble up to the bar. One of the goodtime gals keeps glancing over in hopes I might meet her gaze, but I’m transfixed on the bombshell in blue beside me. Raising my glass to the bartender, “Hey, how you doin’, pal?” 

He replies, “name’s Paul.” 

“How you doin’, Paul.” An exclamation, not an inquiry. “Two Martinis. Plymouth, five to one. And hey, Paul. Do me a favor and make ‘em one at a time.”

“You got it…” He left the sentence hanging. 

“Tony. This is my wife, Faith. Here...”, I placed a twenty on the bar. “Put the drinks on room 107 and keep this for yourself.” 

He prepared the drinks simultaneously in separate mixing glasses, the whole thing an intricate ballet of pouring and stirring, before straining them into small frosty coups with a, “cheers.” Faith and I raise our glasses to each other, “Salud” and the first sip is bright, crisp, efflorescent with a dry bite. 

Later, with the balcony door ajar in our cabin, faint sounds of the jazz band are carried by on the wake of an open ocean breeze. The notes blow gently in, circle the room, and seeing we were in the mood for privacy, excuse themselves back over the balcony to explore the night. 

In the morning I awake, foggy, but content, home in my own bed. The lambent light of day creeping around the curtains. To one side she’s curled up in the comforter. To the other side, on my nightstand, is an empty coup glass. Damn, that was a wonderful dream. 

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki. Part 2 in our exploration of the Martini. 

For the second half of our deep dive into the Martini we’re going to start where we usually finish. Making a drink! So, let’s jump into ingredients.  

The idea of distilling or blending botanicals within spirits began in Italy. That’s basically what Amaro’s are. From there the practice spread to France, because they have to smudge their pretentious little fingerprints on everything, before reaching the Dutch and becoming Genever - the promethean gin. 

We spoke in the first part of our journey how gilded age gins such as Holland and Old Tom were heavier bodied, sweeter, and lighter in botanicals. That’s what made them interchangeable with whiskies and brandies. Think how dark rum could be substituted for bourbon in an Old Fashioned or Manhattan. However, by the early 20th century, as the Martini grew in popularity, things began to dry out. No, no… I don’t mean people sobered up. Aghast! I’m referring to the dryness trend. Sweet was out and the educated tippler began to appreciate tasting their spirit. Dry wines and liquors were all the rage. Contemporaneously the age of cocktails run amuck was coming to a close as recipes and techniques became codified. This led to the London Dry style of gin, as well as the official Martini recipe calling for London Dry gin and dry French vermouth. 

Now, in the rum world, much like the pirates, poets, and revolutionaries who drank it, we don’t have a lot of rules. But, across the pond they value tradition a bit more than we do. Probably because they have more of it. Thus, in order to be classified as London Dry gin the botanicals used must be all natural and must be included during distillation. As opposed to added later. The most prevalent of these being juniper. London Dry is very floral and citrus forward; the citrus aspect slouching towards bitter like when you express oils from a rind. This is going to proffer that bright, crisp bite I suggested earlier. Notice I didn’t mention anything regarding provenance. That’s because London Dry gin does not need to be made in London, or even England at large. A lot of New World gins like Hendrick’s or Corsair are in the style of London Dry as long as they follow the aforementioned guidelines. 

I guess we should also discuss the idea of “dry” as a texture. I finally undestood the idea of dry as it pertains to red wine but, it’s also common in cigars, tea, and coffee. That sensation of drinking a liquid that actually leaves your mouth feeling dried out. The science behind the sensation is a mix of astringency on your tastebuds and the natural diuretic effects of alcohol, caffeine, or nicotine. The oxymoron of a dry liquid is fascinating. 

However, there is another acceptable martini gin that is only tangentially related to London Dry style. Plymouth. Plymouth gin does in fact have to be made in Plymouth England and is only made by one brand called, you guessed it - Plymouth. 

Plymouth gin also uses botanicals, like juniper. But, where it differs is the relative balance of those ingredients. Juniper is subdued allowing herbal and citrus flavors to rise to the fore. There’s also an element of barrel aging not found in other gins that renders a fuller body and more refined palate. The texture is silkier, less dry, and the sharp corners are rounded off. 

London Dry is the official ingredient for a Martini but, Plymouth has two things going for it. One: It is a derivative of the London Dry style and two: it’s purported that Sir Winston Churchill himself claims it’s the only gin to make a Martini. Given, he’s a bit partial, but I’m inclined to agree with him. I used to be a mark for Bombay Sapphire. Loved the stuff. But, after trying Plymouth my mind has been sufficiently blown. I’m wondering now about beloved Tiki gin drinks like Suffering Bastard or Royal Hawaiian? As much as I love a Sapphire Martini my go-to for gin has always been Beefeater, for its versatility and flavor. Yet, in a cocktail that is only two ingredients and mostly gin I find Plymouth superior. 

Sapphire or Beefeater will garner a light, botanical, almost floral Martini with vaporous undertones and almost a bitter sweet flavor. While Plymouth is deeper and richer with herbal overtones but including a nuanced patina. Both are wonderful expressions of this drink. Therefore, as much as I crave definitive structure in my libations, the choice is solely yours. 

Next we tackle vermouth. Although this style of fortified wine once again finds its origins in Italy as a sweet reddish-brown tincture, it was indeed the French who perfected the dry white version. I’ve avoided specific dates and history because we’ve discussed all that in depth before in our Negroni and Manhattan episodes. In the French style there are two main variations important to us. Standard dry vermouth and Chambery, the latter of which must be from the Chambery region of France. Chambery is used in popular drinks like the Presidente. It offers fruitier notes with a little more body. This is my preference for most mixed drinks. However, in Martini?, nothing is quite like that bitter-sweet dry bite you get from Noilly Prat. Furthermore, it’s affordable and available. The Noilly Prat brand is your standard no frills French Dry Vermouth. That is, the least amount of frills the French could have while still being French. 

A wine based aperitif, vermouth is often utilized to bolster the body and character of thinner spirits, but is also lovely as an amuse bouche or mid-meal palate cleanse. The thing I always stress about vermouth is to remember it’s a wine product and therefore needs to be stored in the refrigerator after opening. It also doesn’t last forever. For this reason, when purchasing higher priced Italian vermouths, I often opt for the smaller bottle. With Noilly Prat, being so inexpensive and versatile, that doesn't really come into play. 

That brings us to… well, nothing. Because there are only two ingredients. So, let’s make a drink! 

A Martini is:

2 ½ oz London Dry or Plymouth Gin

½ oz Dry French Vermouth

Fill a small coup, Nick & Nora, or V-shaped Martini glass with cube or pebble ice and set aside. We don’t want to use crushed ice as that may melt in the glass or leave behind floaters. In a mixing glass add gin and vermouth. Stir with ice till the glass is frosty, discard ice from glasses, then double strain into your preferred glassware. Traditional garnishes are pimiento stuffed olives, lemon twist, or pickled cocktail onion. See our Martini Part 1 episode for more on that. 

I’m not going to repeat my flavor experience here because I don’t want to fill your head with pretense. In fact, I want to know your first sip thoughts when you order a Martini. The way the glass looks on the bar. How it feels in your hand. The smell before it touches your lips and that initial burst of flavor to the senses. 

How dim are the lights? What’s the finish on the bartop? How soft is the cushion of the seat? Is that jazz? Blues? Classical? Perhaps, Salsa or a slow Calypso? Do I suddenly feel more confident in this suit and is that girl in the tight floral print dress really making eyes at me

The Martini is a cocktail that is truly greater than the sum of its parts. Not only in the literal sense, but by notion. The imagery of a Martini glass adorns neon signs and billboards the world over. It’s used on Google maps to indicate where bars are. I had club shirts in the 90’s with Martini glass logos on the pocket. Its profound appearances in film and literature are incomparable. From Gatsby era frivolity to the idealized version of the 1950’s American dream. It survived under glittering disco balls and through the faux high culture of the 80’s. In the 90’s, by way of the flavored vodka boom, Martinis represented the first stumbling steps of a cocktail renaissance. The idea that apples, espresso, and a panoply of pallid pastel potions became “tinis” simply by being served in a V-shaped glass may offend the discerning cocktalian but is, in fact, a testament to how deep the Martini permeates through culture. When other drinks steal your name because it’s so well known you’ve reached legendary status. And some of those bon vivant nights drinking Martinis are things of legend. Martini parties that pervaded the early 2000’s, in conjunction with the craft cocktail movement, sparked Martini bars like the Tiny Tini in St. Augustine, Florida. Coral Club, here in Nashville, has a “Tiny Tini” happy hour menu. Last year I ordered a Gin Martini at a speakeasy bar and the bartender replied, “So, a Martini.” Which pleased my purist sensibilities greatly. 

The cocktail world seems to have shaped itself around the Martini and without it there would be a V-shaped hole in our hearts. I’m tempted to say that is quite the legacy. But, in order to leave a legacy the thing must be gone, and the Martini shows no signs of going anywhere anytime soon. 

So, to all the vintage suits, legendary tipplers, dive bars and opulant lounges, to the good the bad and the ugly, Nicks Noras coups ans V’s, 2 Martini lunches and late night hangs, to you and me and all the girls in tight floral dresses - Here’s looking at you, kid. 

Sources: Google AI, forbes.com article Understanding Gin: What Makes London Dry, Old Tom And Other Styles Unique by Emily Price, foodandwine.com article Understanding the 4 Main Types of Gin, According to Experts by Dylan Ettinger

My name is Tony and this has been Pod Tiki. Thank you for listening and Keepi Tiki!

Pod Tiki: Martini - Part 1

“There is no controversy regarding Vodka Martini. For the simple fact that one must preface “vodka” in their Martini proves it to be merely a riff. I like dark rum Old Fashioneds. If I walked into any establishment, fine or otherwise, and asked for an Old Fashioned I cannot assume the bartender to make it to my unique inclination without further explanation. Therefore, anything besides gin in a Martini is a spin-off, a riff, a spoof.” That is a quote, by me.  

Somehow, in faded flashes of memory, I recall my early forays into Martinis. I did turn 21 in 2001,  after all. While we mourned the casualties and shoved the proverbial boot in your ass, ‘cuz that’s the American way, if you recall we also experienced a rise in cocktail culture. The renaissance hadn’t yet begun, but the pieces were in place. One of which being the “Martini Party”. 

Now, in the early aughts the term “Martini Party” was fast and loose. The party part was legit, but the Martini aspect depended on temporal interpretation. As culture often does. You can say when it comes to Martinis I danced with the devil in the pale moonlight. Or, better yet, rode in the back of a stretched hummer limousine on a bachelor party in Tampa. The party girl we acquired at some random casino bonked her head hard on the door frame as she climbed into the back of our ostentatious carriage and crawled across my lap to squeeze herself between the languid passengers of our quest. I think there was something blue mixed with Hypnotik in our glasses.

Flash to a neon night at the Blue Martini, a suedo-upscale attempt in Orlando, with low cut blouses and thumping bass on a sweaty dance floor. Then jump to a house party with leather sofas and decorative lions in the corners of wrought iron tables where I placed colored bottles of mixers and V-shaped glasses with bent stems out for guests to mix up their saccharine potions before ambling to the lanai’s humid Florida air - oops! Someone just fell in the hot tub. Then of course there was Roxy, whose walls tell multigenerational stories of which I’m not sure the statute of limitations has worn out yet. And… Club Paris

Nestled somewhere near Church St. and the corner of my psyche in downtown Orlando was Paris Hilton’s bar. Pink vinyl sofas and pounding house beats. And a VIP.  A VIP that my acquaintances and I found ourselves in that fateful night. A few couches and a table on the mezzanine cordoned off by the infamous velvet rope. 

This is where I feel I should apologize for past behavior, but apologies don’t make for good stories. The drink of the night was Appletini. Several. And possibly, probably, shots of something peachy-sticky-sweet. Now, my tiny bladder is nothing of the new sort and on one such excursion to the men's room it came upon me to relieve myself of more than just the contents of my bladder, but also that of my stomach, in the stall. When I was through and straightened myself out to the best of myself a bouncer promptly informed me that it was time to leave. That is until I relayed that my party was just over there in the VIP with those exorbanantly priced bottles of vodka to which he escorted me beyond the ropes to my seat and proceeded to walk away, leaving me to my scantily dressed lady friends and that grievous bartab. 

I didn’t much dabble in what I thought was Martinis from then till years later in Nashville. At the now defunct Sinema. We’re somewhere around 2015 as we find a Tony in his mid-thirties clad in the uniform of the day. Slim fit black button down tucked into dark blue slim fit “going out” jeans, hemmed with no break to show off the black leather Chelsea boots. Out from the courtyard of my bungalow apartment I strolled across the railroad tracks, under the double overpasses, through the carwash lot, ‘cuz there was no sidewalk there and God forbid I show up with mud on the Chelsea’s, past the cowboy bar and eventually to the heavy doors of Sinema. This was an amazing restaurant and cocktail lounge, in every sense of the word, converted from an old movie theatre. The aesthetic as you walked up did not disappoint. Complete with golden age of film marquee and box office. Through the double doors into the foyer there was a small bar to the right, all gold-black marble-leather. In front of a red stage curtain leading to the dining room was the greeter’s podium. To the right, a wide curved staircase rising to the mezzanine housing lounge. 

A glance back towards the stairs and above the landing rail now revealed a large wall with a black and white movie projected onto it. In the lounge pictures of stars, movie and music alike, adorned the walls. My favorite of which was Marilyn hanging in the men’s room. Her heavy lidded sultry eyes smiling at you holding yourself over the urinal. 

Behind the long L-shaped bar, decorated same as the one downstairs, on either end was bookshelving. Some classic literature, as well as bar manuals, and old Hollywood ephemera. It was early for a Saturday. Maybe 7:30pm. Soon the sofas, nooks, cushioned chairs and barstools would be full with dressed to impress tipplers of all ages. A middle aged man in a European suit accompanied by two young ladies with straight off the runway looks and skin tight cocktail dresses. A young professional fella dappered up for his date holding his drink in the hand with the shiny watch. A few Buddy Holly hipsters, and a murder of sexy girls tossing shadows around like so many crumbs in the city park. 

And there I was. Holding court with my own thoughts like the good little fly on the wall I was. The next morning I would use this setting and characters I might meet as inspiration for a short story or a song. If I was a better writer I could make things up, instead I have to make things happen. For that, I needed some social lubricant. Even though the beer came in nice stemmed pilsners this wasn’t the place for suds. I was tired of the ubiquitous straight bourbon everyone drank in Nashville. The idea of finding good sipping rum in even an upscale bar was still a few years away. But, you know what? There had been some chirpings in the nicer establishments as of late of a sort of craft-cocktail revival. Old Fashioneds were being doled out as fast as the spoon could spin, but I wanted something unique. Something from the past that could finally be asked for without raised eyebrows and could finally be prepared properly by a trained mixologist. I ordered a martini. 

There was no further questions from the bar. Not, what type of liquor? Or, what flavor? No, what came to me in a small glass coup was cold but clear and smelled a little like the juniper breeze lotion girls would wear in high school, but brisk. Like the scent blew across a handful of cool snow before reaching my nose. It tasted crisp, mildly floral, but with the musky body of dry white wine.  There was a bitter-sweet bite and the aura of vapor that hangs in my memory like a dragon on the air. A dragon I’ve been chasing ever since. 

Ladies and gentleman. My name is Tony, and this is Pod Tiki. 

This is not going to be an easy episode. Hence why it took so long to get out. On account of I want to hit as many facets of this omnipotent promethean cocktail as possible, and that I am very opinionated about such. Thus, I want to give a well rounded overview as well as an in depth retrospect including but not limited to my own spirited thoughts on the matter. 

To understand the origins of the Martini we must understand cocktail culture at the time. The time? That would be circa 1870 - 1910’s. An era referred to as the Gilded Age of cocktails. The Manhattan having already proved itself a fan favorite, we know that mixing vermouth with spirits was old hat. The way it worked before codified recipes was that spirits could be swapped for any other in any given drink. Whiskies, brandies, and yes, even gins were all interchangeable. This was due to the fact that the Old Tom or Holland gins of that day were sweeter with more body and less floral spice than the dry gins of today. 

Early Martini’s would’ve been thought of as a Manhattan riff. Gin with sweet Italian vermouth, some bitters and a dash of gum, which is what they called simple syrup. It wasn’t until preference shifted towards dryness around the turn of the century that we begin to see a Martini we might recognize. The whole tenor of drinking was switching at the time and everything was coming up dry. Dry wines were all the fashion and a new style of dry, juniper heavy, gin out of England was gaining popularity. One of the earliest mentions of a Dry Martini is from the New York Herald in 1897 where it gives a recipe of Plymouth or London Dry gin with dry French vermouth. 

And, that is it. Right there in the Herald from over a hundred years ago and documented and sourced from David Wondrich’s wonderful book Imbibe!. Take note that even the syrup and bitters have been omitted by this point. London Dry Gin and French vermouth. Case closed. No further inquiry necessary. No further debate. Now that we know what a Martini is we can ask “where did it come from?” “Who invented it?” This is where it gets real murky. 

In this there are a few prevailing theories. Mr. Wondrich reviews his top four origin claims in Imbibe!. Please refer to that work for a deeper dive. Here, I’ve endeavored to consolidate what seems most likely. 

First, we have to give props to the Godfather of cocktailing, Jerry Thomas. Thomas had the clout to write the big book, and he did. Jerry didn’t invent the cocktail but he was the first one to collect and publish a book of recipes. Including the tools, procedures, and etiquette of tending bar. He opened, consulted, or worked in most of the premier bars from San Francisco to New York City. Okay, now that props have been properly proffered. There are those who would like to believe Jerry Thomas invented the Martini like he did so many Gilded Age classics, but it just isn’t so. 

There’s so much information regarding the mixture of gin and vermouth It feels like every time we get a handle on it another albatross perches upon our masthead. This one informs us that part of the difficulty in pinning down an origin is because at this time there were drinks called Martini, Martinez, Martine, Martigny, and so on. The claim in Jerry’s camp is that he mixed up a gin and vermouth cocktail in the 1960’s in San Francisco for a traveler heading to the town of Martinez. Thus, the Martinez cocktail. Unfortunately, the Martinez cocktail is not mentioned in any of his books till a reprint two years after his death. Furthermore, the Martini was already a popular drink by this time and Thomas was nothing less of the consummate showman regarding his trade and the spotlight. Therefore, if he had created a cocktail with such pomp and circumstance encircling it he surely would have leaned into its creation myth during his life, which there is no record of. 

Next we meet the honorable Randolph B. Martine, judge and district attorney for the great state of New York. Martine was known to enjoy a libation and indeed was a member at the Manhattan Club as well as the sporting fraternity. The latter being a term for the betting, tippling, and social men with the means it took to engage in such wanton frivolity. Think the Gatsby crowd, or Thurston Howell III. Many classic era cocktails were created at the Manhattan club and it’s said that Martine followed suit with his eponymous mixture of gin and vermouth. This one has a valid claim due to Martine’s proclivities and proximity to one of the centers of cocktail culture but, there’s something else. An 1888 book called New and Improved Illustrated Bartender’s Manual by Harry Johnson, yes, real name, is one of the earliest mentions of the Martini. But, the footnotes under the illustrations refer to it as the Martine. In fact, gin and vermouth being labeled as Martine continued in recipe books for another two decades. 

The arguments against Judge Martine are twofold. Once again, the Martini was a hugely popular drink during his lifetime and there is no mention in his obituary of him giving rise to this phenomenon. It seems this a posthumous claim credited to Martine due possibly to his titular similarity to Martini brand vermouth. I don’t know about you guys but when I discovered there was a brand of dry vermouth called Martini, available in New York at the time this cocktail, using dry vermouth, was created I closed the book and thought, “Why even read anymore? This seems so obvious the origin of the name.” But, then I realized the fact that there was more book to be read meant the story wasn’t over. 

The Turf Club was the rough and tumble precursor to the Manhattan Club. Literally, it was what the bar was called from 1880 -1883 before becoming the Manhattan Club. In 1884, the same year the Martinez was first mentioned in print, an anonymous bartender’s guide was published with a recipe for a Turf Club Cocktail made by mixing, you guessed it, gin and vermouth. This theory is predicated on a fact we discussed earlier that often spirits were swapped out while the drink kept the same name. Within 15 months of each other New York’s Sunday Morning Herald reported a combination of whiskey, vermouth, and bitters going under the names Manhattan, Turf Club, or Jockey Club Cocktail while the Chicago Tribune boasted the rise in popularity of the Manhattan Cocktail made with gin and vermouth. 

First of all, I love that newspapers were reporting on drink recipes. Especially the Sunday Morning Herald. Thus, as you can see, all the confusion between Manhattan/Martini/Martinez/Martine, whiskey + vermouth and gin + vermouth being conflated as the same drink, a popular brand of vermouth called Martini. My humble opinion on the entire matter is that no one person invented the Martini. 

This is a case of contemporaneous thinking in which the zeitgeist and milieu of an era, the cultural information being broadcast to us all, steered a natural progression towards the invention of a thing they all saw coming. Like the cultural memes of today the Martini Cocktail evolved naturally through shared experience. It’s like if you asked 10 chefs to make a pot of soup each chef adding one ingredient at a time. It would probably come out delicious because they all know what ingredients go together based on shared knowledge of their field. I guess what I’m saying is - the Martini was destined. 

Of course, the controversies and theories about the Martini don’t stop in our modern day. Type of glassware, measures of ingredients, garnish, proper set and setting, and cultural posture all come into play when discussing the meritorious Martini.  

I am a huge proponent of proper aesthetic in my epicurean experiences. When ordering a drink at a bar or restaurant I’m not only thinking of what flavor or spirit I’m in the mood for but what is the ambiance of the establishment? Will I be eating, or smoking, or simply holding court? Most of all, do they have the proper glassware for the cocktail? The Martini enjoys a bit of wayward freedom in this regard as there are 3 acceptable types of glasses for it to be served in. 

We all know the famous V-shaped Martini glass. The actual glass dates to Paris in 1925 where it debuted at The International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts as a nod to Art Deco. Initially, because it’s Paris, the V-shaped glass was used to serve Champagne. It wasn’t until the 1960’s, when James Bond sipped his, ahem, “Martini”, from the V-glass that it grew in popularity and became known as a Martini glass. This shape really took off though, in the 80’s and 90’s during the fallow days of cocktailia when any neon vodka drink could add -tini to its name and be fancy. 

It’s also not uncommon to be served your Martini in a coup. It makes sense that the coup would be tied to such an infamous libation as it is the most infamous glass. Mythology behind the coup purports that it was modelled after Marie Antoinette’s breast. There’s no historical evidence to corroborate this but, why let truth get in the way of a good cocktail? Makes me wonder, though. I have many sizes of coupes. I wonder if she was a 5oz or more of a 7oz? Whatever cup size your coup is, it’s a legacy cocktail vessel. Notably, to us Tropiki lovers, for the daiquiri. It’s hard to overstate how much the coup means to cocktail culture at large. Or, maybe I’m just partial because it’s my favorite style. Notwithstanding personal proclivity, the glass is rooted in France. King Louis XIV would shoot Champagne from a coup at every meal. You heard me right. See, back then Champagne wasn’t sipped and savored, but shot back quick like so many Jager-bombs in the early 2000’s. For daiquiris and other cocktails I love a larger, 7-10oz coup. Especially when they are engraved in an antique style. However, for Martin, which is a considerably small beverage, I prefer the tiny 5oz coup. Mainly due to the fact that I don’t like when a drink only fills up half the glass. A standard 5:1 Martini, the one being ½ oz, equals 3oz of liquid. In a 7-10oz glass this not only gets warmer faster due to more surface area, but it looks ridiculous.

Lastly, we have what might be my new favorite piece of glassware for versatility and style. The Nick & Nora glass. In the 1934 film The Thin Man, retired detective Nick Charles and his wife Nora theatrically drink dry Martinis from this upside-down bell shaped glass that actually resembles a boob much more than a coup if you ask me.

Famed bartender and mixologist Dale DeGroff was working at the Rainbow Room in New York in the 1980’s when flipping through a vintage glassware catalog he found this style of glass and nicknamed it the Nick & Nora, after the movie. The name stuck and seems to be making a revival. A lot of boutique cocktail bars have brought the Nick & Nora back into vogue and I can see why. It features an elegant shape while being large enough to accommodate even straight up Tiki drinks like Royal Hawaiian. I love serving Daiquiris, Presidentes, and any other straight up cocktail in this glass. It lends itself to Martini because the deep “bell” shape keeps the majority of the drink away from the surface and colder longer. Granted you hold it by the stem and not the bell like a heathen. 

Despite the V-shaped being the newest Martini modality it seems to have persisted as the most recognizable and used for this libation. Case in point it’s referred to as a Martini Glass. Pretty much the universal iconography of cocktails. Think of how many bars or liquor stores incorporate a Martini glass into their branding. How many neon ladies swinging their legs over the edge of a Martini glass have been affixed in dive bar windows? Hell, my best friend has that imagery tattooed on his arm, women and alcohol, to represent man’s downfall. The Nick & Nora with its classic heritage and newfound adoration. Stylish and useful. That’s a combo not often found in the realm of epicurean experience. However, when it’s all said and drunk, my vote goes to the 5oz coup as the best glass for a Martini. It looks good, feels good to hold, keeps the beverage cold, and perfectly fits the 3oz cocktail. 

Delivery methods aside let’s move our attention to how one properly orders a Martini. This may sound silly but, hey, I didn’t eat at Panda Express till I was 40 years old because I didn’t understand how to order. Chinese food is either ordered from a paper menu with numbers or piled onto a plate from a buffet. Cafeteria style Chinese food totally glitched my matrix. How many things could I get? What if I want all the rices? Are they going to have my General Tso’ s touching my beef and broccoli? ‘Cus that’s simply unacceptable. Does it come with an egg roll and a fortune cookie like combo 12 at No.1 China Wok down the street from my apartment? It was all so confusing. And Confucius says, “He who is baffled by menu, often baffled by life.” 

So, there’s a few things to keep in mind when ordering a Martini at a classy joint. The first being that Martini’s are measured by the ratio of gin to vermouth. More vermouth makes a Martini “wetter”, as less makes it “dryer”. This may sound strange at first, especially to us Tiki nerds, but no one knows better than Tiki tipplers how a slightly heavy handed pour of any one ingredient can wildly offset the flavor of such a precariously concocted potion. So, how does one discern to order a Martini by taste? 

If you ask for simply a Martini and nothing else you’ll most likely get a standard 5:1 3 oz Martini. That’s 5 parts gin to 1 part Vermouth, or 2 ½ oz gin to 1 oz vermouth. Now, you can ask for a 7:1 or even a 10:1. Or, perhaps you prefer wet and want a 2:1. Just keep in mind that the amount of liquid in your glass remains the same 3 oz, only the ratio of ingredients changes.

This has always been a point of facetious pride within the drinking community. How much vermouth is proper, manly, decorous? Hemingway famously favored a 15:1 ratio opting for a cold glass to reduce stir time to reduce dilution. It’s said that Winston Churchhill preferred to merely glance at the vermouth bottle while mixing his Martinis. There are claims that one should place the vermouth bottle in front of a fan blowing towards the drink, or that waving an open bottle of vermouth over the glass is sufficient.  

I never understood this attitude. If it’s supposed to be more macho to drink your Martini with as little vermouth as possible then why not just order straight gin? If we’re buying into the masculine stereotype it would seem more manly to drink it neat from a rocks glass than chilled in a coup. A Martini is gin and vermouth. If you don’t like vermouth you should order something else. In fact, some very early Martini recipes call for equal parts. Vermouth is a wine product and can be sweet even though dry. Personally, half and half is a bit too wet for me, but at least it’s a cocktail and not just chilled gin in a questionable glass. 

Okay, so, we’re asking for a 5:1 Martini. But, wait! There’s more! 

The Martini is uniquely quixotic in the fact that garnish doesn’t matter but matters the most. So much that changing the garnish actually changes the name of the drink. Sure, we all know that the traditional garnish for Martini is a skewered pimiento stuffed olive. If you order it “dirty”, the bartender will add a dash of the olive brine into your drink giving it a salty-savory bite. This is a relatively new trend, considering the evolution of the cocktail, but it’s proved to stand the test of time. If that doesn’t swell your ankles up enough you could ask for “Extra Dirty”. Or, you may prefer yours the way my wife does, with a twist. In this case we forego the olive altogether and replace it with a thin strip of lemon peel “twisted” over the drink to release the oils then dropped in or draped languidly over the rim. Here’s the one that gets me. If you replace the olive and the lemon twist with a pickled onion, the same exact drink we already have ceases to be a Martini and is now called a Gibson. 

We’re not going to spend too much time derailing our main narrative to side quest the Gibson, because there’s nothing to discuss. Two main theories of origin are out there. One from San Fanciso’s Bohemian Club and the other from New York’s Player’s Club. The thing is in both of these stories a bartender was challenged to improve the standard Martini and in both they simply removed the orange bitters that were common at the time. A practice that had already begun to catch on for the standard recipe. Nowhere in these accounts is there mention of a cocktail onion and as far as I can tell no one really knows when or why this became a thing. 

I actually prefer no garnish. I want nothing in my Martini except gin and vermouth. Therefore, my standard order is 5:1 Martini, no garnish. 

Once you get your Martini the etiquette doesn’t stop. If we were in charm school they would instruct us that the proper way to hold a stemmed cocktail glass is by the stem with two fingers of one hand while resting the flat bottom in the palm of the other. In these our modern days I’ve observed people in tax brackets I can’t even see from where I am, in the swankiest places around, holding their drinks by the bell. It has become totally acceptable because it looks cool. But, not only does this warm your drink up faster, and the Martini should be served cold cold, but it covers your glass in greasy fingerprints. Ain’t nobody got time for that! 

Okay, keeping all of this in mind the most important thing to remember when ordering a Martini as a classy gentleman is, don’t be a pretentious douche. Read the room, bro. You should be able to tell if you’re in an establishment that has the capability and expertise to make your Martini to specification from a place you should just accept the way it comes. Or, from a place where perhaps you should order something else. I hear the Busch Light draft here is to die for. 

All jokes aside, (well, maybe leave some jokes), I enjoy keeping time in a gamut of the diviest dive bars to the trendiest cocktail lounges and a gentleman or lady should know how to appropriately order a commensurate cocktail in either. 

However, what if we’re making Martinis at home? Endeavoring to impress a lovely lady or man? Making drinks for dinner guests? Perhaps, bringing a little mojo to a garden party or picnic? Here are some tips. 

We’re going to need a mixing glass, barspoon, cocktail strainer and mesh cone strainer, ice, and, of course, your choice of glassware and garnish. You may notice I did not mention a shaker. Here we go!  

Shaking standard Martinis is not a thing. Neither gin nor vermouth require aeration. Shaking does make liquid colder quicker. But, we stir a drink to give it a smoother, silkier, texture. While shaking renders a cloudy fizzy dirty bathwater look rather than the clear crystal rainwater on a frosty window look a Martini should have. Shaking Martini’s didn’t become popular till vodka started being used because vodka has less taste and needs to be colder to be palatable. That’s my hot take, but also pseudo-factual. The botanical notes of gin are much more flavor forward than the highly nuanced notes of vodka. We’ll cover the various types of Vodka Martinis in separate episodes but since they are riffs and not true Martinis we’re not going to spend too much time on them here. Suffice to say they were made popular by a certain British secret agent in the 1960’s and took off as a cultural diaspora. 

A lot of people like vodka because they don’t like gin. Fair enough, but then you’re only ordering a Martini because you wanna feel fancy holding the glass? Also, if you ask any bartender worth their rim salt for a Martini they will ask for your gin preference. They only tolerate vodka Martinis as a thing because they sell more drinks. For a cocktail lover it’s not totally a detriment because the popularity of vodka, especially flavored varieties, brought people back to craft cocktails again. You can obviously tell which side I’m on here. Martinis should be gin and stirred. However, I feel the same way about it as I do non-believers celebrating Christmas. If it brings someone to church once a year, or, at least makes them a nicer person for a month - spending time with loved ones, setting grievances aside, showing compassion for the underprivileged - then they’re doing the thing Jesus wanted anyway. 

The realm of Martini prep is replete with superstition. My personal favorite, I believe it came from a Hemingway novel, but don’t quote me, is that Martinis should only ever be made one at a time. I like that. I don’t know why. It’s an esoteric request that doesn’t inconvenience a bartender terribly. If my wife and I both order a Martini I will ask the barkeep to prepare them individually. There’s something poetic about that request. Poetry shouldn’t be explainable but my interpretation is that each individual Martini is a piece of stand alone art that resents being tainted or manipulated in any way by having its DNA split in the womb. As an added benefit, if you find yourself in a bit of a spiff with your partner at the bar ordering this way infers, “I don’t even want the contents of my drink touching theirs!” 

(I would like to add that the above statement regarding DNA splitting is regarding cocktails only and in no way is meant to offend human twins. Here at Pod Tiki we love twins. The Doublemint twins, those two Siamese cats from Lady and the Tramp. In fact, I think if you’re a twin and you go to a Tiki bar with your twin there should be a secret Tiki drink, in special matching mugs, that only twins can order.) 

Moving on. The next thing is dilution. How long to stir and should you use wet ice? Wet ice is a term to describe when ice is left out long enough to begin to melt giving it a shiny appearance rather than being frosty. This supposedly offers more or more even dilution. I don’t have the science behind that claim. But, it seems to reason that stirring with more ice longer will dilute more. A balanced cocktail has to include proper dilution. Evidenced by the earliest definition of a cocktail being spirit, sugar, bitters, and water. Unless you’re Hemingway of course who, much like in his prolific writing, makes his own rules for drinking. He wasn’t off base, though. The tradition of cooling the glass off persists today. Though, the proper practice is to fill a coup with ice while you're preparing the Martini, dumping it before pouring the drink in. 

The final part of creating a Martini is the pour. Stirring won’t break up cubed ice but, in the case you’re using crushed ice or scooping it from a bucket where it may become chipped, double straining works wonders in keeping the drink crystal clear and consistently free of bothersome ice slivers. 

There’s always been one thing that perplexed me amid the oeuvre of Martini prep. In the novel Don’t Stop the Carnival by Herman Wouk, wherein a stressed out public relations agent gives it all up to buy a hotel in Martinique, there’s a scene in which he mixes up a batch of Martinis in a shaker for a picnic with a love interest. This seemingly breaks two cardinal Martini merits. Prebatching multiple drinks at a time and using a shaker. The former is excusable since it’s only an anecdotal rule, but the latter has had me nonplussed for years. How does one pre-batch Martinis while assuring proper dilution? 

The answer seems so simple I’m embarrassed not to have figured it out sooner. Simply pour your desired measurements into a tin shaker, add a few drops of water per drink, say six drops for two drinks, stir, and place in the freezer till you're ready to go. Wrapping the shaker in paper towels when packing it up will help insulate. Now you have pre-batched Martinis for your garden outing which I hope is with your wife and not a mistress like in the book. 

Thus, we see, the tin shaker is merely used to keep the liquid cold. There is no shaking. And there’s no ice to worry about watering the drink down. Wallah! 

One of the tricksy, yet amusing aspects of the Martini is that it’s highly customizable but with only two ingredients. It's like ordering a steak. You know it’s simple. Meat and temperature. I like mine medium rare. The issue comes that much like pants in the 2010’s, measurements vary depending on manufacturer. Dry, dirty, wet, briney, bone-dry, much like your sex life if you drink too much, these can vary wildly from bar to bar and bartender to bartender. That’s why understanding how to order just what you want assures the premier experience imbibing in Martini should be. 

Well, it appears we’ve come to the part of the show where it’s time to make a drink! … Almost. 

This topic entails so much that this is going to be Pod Tiki’s first ever 2-parter. This may not be my personal favorite cocktail of all time, but it is the preeminent cocktail. The iconography of the Martini is what even people who don’t drink think of when picturing an upscale cocktail experience. From history to legacy and everything in between I wanted to make sure that nothing was left out. 


So, in the next episode we’re going to cover that legacy and what the Martini means today as well going over variations in ingredients and finally making that drink. Your homework is to go out, order some Martinis, and try putting into practice all we’ve discussed today. 


Till then, My name is Tony and this has been Pod Tiki. 

Sources: Imbibe! By Davis Wondrich, liquor.com, Imbibe.com, diffordsguide.com, wikipedia, Google AI

Pod Tiki: Rumrun-It Back

I’ve never done this before. Post a follow up episode directly after the one in question. It’s arrogance, really. For never have I had the wherewithal to recognize my deficiencies within so close a timeline of releasing an episode. The author thinks too highly of himself. The author also speaks in third person like a douchebag.

What happened is this - in researching prohibition and Bill McCoy and the origins of the Rum Rummer drink I became too ensconced in trying to force a through-line. The Rum Runner episode ended up being a mish-mosh of loosely correlated facts and stories that indeed made sense and are true, but lacked the cohesion I strive for as a decent storyteller. 

Not only did I fail in relaying a captivating story, but I also omitted, of my own fault in being trapped in my vacuous head, that most important notion of the Rum Runner. The legacy of the drink itself and its relation to us, the beachgoers. 

I spoke of Bill McCoy and his misadventures, the U.S. prohibition on alcohol that led to his rise,  the recipe, ingredients, and my thoughts on the drink. What I left out was that despite my opinion on the drink I, nor anyone else in this space, can deny its indelible place in the culture of beach bar drinking. 

I’ve done a moderate amount of travelling compared to some of ya’ll out there and a fair amount to still some others. However, my heart will always lie fossilized in the beach bar & grille’s of Florida where I spent my formative years and where I still call home though I currently reside in the beautiful state of Tennessee. I can’t speak for places I don’t know about, but in the sunshine state and the close Caribbean the Rum Runner cocktail is somewhat of a staple. 

There are Tiki bars. Traditional Kapa’a wallpaper adorned with bamboo and Tahitian artifacts or post mod 2nd wave artwork. The places that serve 1930’s style Tiki drinks as close in proximity to Donn and Vic’s masterpieces as we can surmise. But, if you grew up or spent any time in the southeast U.S. you know about the other kind of Tiki bar. An outdoor “hut” style pagoda topped with thatch roofing and usually on the deck or pier overlooking some body of water. You may’ve heard reference to a restaurant having a dining room with indoor bar as well as a “Tiki Bar” out back. These are what Martin Cate referred to as “Florida Tiki Bars”. Which I personally find quite offensive. As if we on the east coast don’t know real Tiki. May I remind Martin of the Mai Kai? 

Suffering Bastard, Permanent Vacation, Aku Aku. Just a few of the world class traditional Tiki Bars in Central Florida. Not counting Mai Kai in Ft Lauderdale, Tiki House in Key West, Tropics in Cocoa Beach. Or, take a road trip north to Georgia for Bamboo Room or Trader Vic’s. So, yeah. We know Tiki. We also know that a beachside Tiki hut is not trying to be that.

There’s actually some history to this, as well. We’ve discussed before but, a quick recapitulation. Native Americans in the territory known as Florida traded goods to early Spanish colonizers from small makeshift lean-tos they called Chickee, or Cheekee huts. Over time and with the advent of Tiki culture in the 20th century these trading posts morphed into shops which morphed into bars which borrowed the similar sounding name of “Tiki Huts”.  

Now, all that to say this; in the Tiki or beachbar culture of the east coast tropics the Rum Runner is a menu staple the same way Mai Tai’s are on the west coast. In the same way as the Hawaiian Mai Tai is not a Trader Vic Mai Tai but has taken on a life of its own as a popular drink, the Rum Runner on the waterfront bars of Florida is a rock the way Peter was to Jesus. Not divine, but the next best thing. And, we all accept it. 

We haven't talked about boat drinks in awhile, but this is a perfect example. My favorite Rum Runner is from Coconuts on the Beach in Cocoa Beach and they do a version frozen and swirled with frozen pina colada. This might be TMI, but I had a daughter when I was 16 years old. Now, she’s grown and has a beautiful daughter of her own. My parents are still alive. Therefore, I get to see my father all the way down to my granddaughter and there is a vast difference. I would never love my grandaughter less because she’s not exactly like my dad. So, why should I hate on boat drinks because they’re not “real” Tiki drinks? 

I don’t care for the traditional 1970’s Rum Runner because of the exorbitant amount of artificial flavors due to liqueurs. But, by the pool or the beach or on a cruise? Hell yeah, I’d drink one. On the rocks or frozen. For the same reason I eat asparagus with steak. I don’t hate asparagus, but I don’t love it. I’m not going to a fast food joint and asking if they can sub asparagus for my fries. But, alongside a ribeye with some mushrooms and potatoes … asparagus is a wonderful addition to the flavor palate. Thus, when in Rome, or at the beach, have yourself a Rum Runner then  walk into the crashing tide just about where the breaks are and let Mother Ocean toss you around a bit. It’s good for the soul. 

In some way perhaps I subconsciously chose this drink for the end of summer because I am missing home and pining for one last beachside daliance. It’s funny because I’ve been home to the beach twice this summer and spent many days poolside here in Nashville’s blazing sun. But no matter how much summer I indulge in I always find myself longing to feel the cold freeze of a Rum Runner in my hand as I step off the wooden deck of Coconuts onto scorching coffee & cream sand hopping from beach blanket to beach blanket till my feet feel the cool relief of Atlantic water. 

Because, maybe I’ve never mule’d booze across the Florida straits, but when it comes to dashing from the Tiki bar to the ocean across a hot beach with a drink in my hand I’ll always be … a Rum Runner. 

Pod Tiki: Rumrunner


A few weekends ago I was in Savannah, Georgia. A wonderful little riverside town replete with history, quaint old buildings, some great bars - including the posh, yet unpretentious Peacock Lounge, and a lovely Tiki bar called Bamboo Room. Another thing it has is bootleggers. Well, it did during prohibition. In fact, if I reflect on some of my favorite places they all seem to have one thing in common. From New York down to Savannah. New Orleans to the Florida Keys and out towards the Caribbean. They all played a major role in bootlegging. 

Perhaps, I’m drawn to this type of place. Perhaps, it’s simply that circumstance favored some of the most important and beautiful locales along the eastern seaboard. Fortune certainly did. If there’s one thing we’ve learned from our trists with prohibition it’s that it turns common people into criminals, criminals into millionaires and nobody stopped drinking. Mark Twain famously wrote, "Prohibition only drives drunkenness behind doors and into dark places, and does not cure it, or even diminish it". 

There were a few ways to drink alcohol during prohibition. Travel to a place where it was legal. i.e., Havana. You could make it yourself. If you didn’t have a cultural or religious exemption you could always become a moonshiner. You could procure a prescription from a pharmacist. Or, the easiest and most affordable way - purchase it illegally. And how, you ask, would one purchase booze in a country in which its sale is outlawed! And not some bathtub gin that’ll make you go blind and slap your grandma but real, authentic, 100% grade A American spirits? For that we turn to the first true American spirit - rum. Said rum was pouring in faster than even Hemingway could drink it through Florida, where it made its way up the Savannah River or sailed northwest through the Gulf of Mexico to New Orleans. 

Sure, up north a nascent crime syndicate becoming known as the Mafia was moving whiskey and wine but, in the deep south and tropics, rum runners ruled the illicit booze trade. Even our beloved Donn the Beachcomber claims to have gotten his start running rum across the Gulf. Today we’re going to talk about the most infamous rum runner of them all and the tropical libation named for his illustrious occupation.

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki. 

It would be oversimplifying to say prohibition was all about decreasing alcohol consumption. As with most social movements it did not happen in a vacuum. Political intrigue, racism, and moral supremacy are all issues encircling the temperance movement. Politically, people against drinking were fed up with the corruption taking place by politicians making deals in taverns or using booze to coerce votes. Both of which did indeed happen. To that effect I will remind you that our country was founded in taverns. Personally, I would have more faith in politicians deciding the course of our nation over a few pints rather than by the highest bidder. And whether or not I agree with what he or she’s saying I’d still drink their beer. The racial part comes by way of the stigma that immigrants were defiling our pure and sovereign nation with their bibulous cultures. You know, the very same pure and sovereign nation that claimed manifest destiny in order to push natives off their ancestral land and used slave labor to create an economy. The Germans with their beer. Irish with that bedeviled whiskey. And lo! Those petulant Italians with their wine and their Catholicism. To say nothing of the French with th- oh, wait. They helped us win the war so we’ll let them slide. Which brings us to the morality front. I should say perceived morality. For, it was through the temperance movement such groups as the KKK rose to power, hitching themselves to the prudent outcry of religious extremists as a platform to launch hateful rhetoric. Prohibition was one of those blemishes on American culture that lends itself to wonder what we as a nation actually stand for. We are a nation of immigrants. From the pilgrims, who were kicked out of their country for religious extremism, to the slaves that were brought here nefariously, to the Statue of Liberty that greeted my great-grandparents as they arrived from Italy fleeing an oppressive government. But, we presently and historically, don’t want new immigrants who want to come experience that American dream we’re all told still exists. 

Yet, as with many illustrious trades, there are the cool parts. Pirates, mobsters, most religions if we put aside the murderous debauchery we’re left with swashbuckling adventures the likes of which I used to clamor for at book fairs. I don’t recall bootlegging being a huge part of my scholastic curriculum, but if it was there is one man who would stand out as the hero: Bill McCoy. 

This was definitely the heyday of offshore bacchanal. We’ve discussed in length on Pod Tiki about Havana, Jamaica, and later Hawaii being the playgrounds for those with the means and desire to imbibe. But what of those harboring the desire without means? Those folks counted on rumrunners to bring the party to them. It’s funny, in the litany of elicit boozetowns New Orleans often fails to be mentioned. That’s because they simply didn’t acknowledge the law. This is a fact, the Crescent City, civilians, lawmen, and politicians alike, has such roots in alcohol as part of their culture that no one in town enforced the Volstead Act. At least, not to locals. Therefore, it was the perfect place to unload all that Caribbean rum. 

Many classic libations from this era, including New Orleans’ own Hurricane, are thought to be products of the voluminous quantities of Jamaican rum being delivered by rumrunners. It’s said in order to get a bottle or two of Scotch or Wine from Europe a bar owner had to purchase cases of Jamaican rum. This was surely a boon to someone peddling in rum drinks. Maybe even offer the surplus of ingredients it takes to experiment with different kinds of rums and mixing them together and adding all kinds of exotic ingredients. 

Another one of these offloading towns was another place we seldom talk about but is so indelibly linked with Tropiki: Key West. Key West is one of the few outlaw days of old that still plays host to myriad outlaws and outcasts flocking to its tiny shores to this very day. Earnest Hemingway, Jimmy Buffett, and Tennessee Willimas are but a few of the famous names. But with millions of honorary expats flocking there each year to experience a bit of that old Florida audacity Key West is most known as a place to go to not be recognized. Mostly due to the fact that everything there is so flamboyantly grandiose you’d have to be pretty odd to stand out there. Key West is so tongue in cheek they even briefly seceded from the U.S. demanding to be known as the Conch Republic. Besides Hemingway and Buffett their next most infamous resident was a fire chief and politically aligned drug dealer named, ready for this, Bum Farto. I shit you not. Pun intended. 

Alas, back to rumrunners. The term rum-runner was given to those smugglers carrying booze from the Caribbean, mainly Bimini, in the Bahamas, to Florida, the Gulf coast and all the way up the eastern seaboard. As alluded to earlier all the other European booze, such as gin, whiskey, or wine, also came in through the Caribbean. Therefore, rumrunning referred to smuggling any illegal alcohol. The difference between rumrunning and bootlegging is that rumrunning refers to alcohol smuggled by sea, while bootlegging is smuggling over land. Illegal distribution of alcohol using suped up stock cars along the beach in Daytona, Florida which led to stock car racing would be an example of bootlegging. Whereas the cocaine cowboys of 1980’s Miami dashing across the Florida Straits in high powered cigarette boats are descendants of rumrunners. 

We’re going to tackle Bill McCoy’s career on a timeline but, I want to begin by prefacing how this man’s gestalt legacy is truly greater than the sum of its parts. His namesake, The Real McCoy, has come to take on a meaning which the greenest child or grayest veteran understands. I think we should all hope our names to be redolent of such abstract notions. Although, some eponymous epithets are favored over others. If I ever find myself in a jail cell I would much rather them say “he Dillinger’ed us”, than, “we Epstein’ed him”. 

William McCoy was born in Syracuse, New York in 1877 into a very straightlaced family. His father, also William, was a humble brick mason who served in the Union Navy during the Civil War and the McCoy family were actually teetotalors. Bill Jr. tangentially followed in his father’s footsteps by enrolling in Pennsylvania Nautical School and graduating top of his class. He subsequently served on many ships around the Caribbean and was actually at Havana Harbor  in 1898 when the USS Maine exploded catalyzing U.S. involvement in Cuba’s war with Spain.   

In the early 20th century the McCoys moved to Holly Hill, Florida. A town just north of Daytona Beach. A town I’m quite familiar with from growing up nearby. We’ll refer to Wiliam Jr., as Bill from here on. It was here that Bill became known as a master yacht builder for rich families such as the Vanderbuilts and Carnegies. 

Here’s where things go off the rails. Like most cases that drive good people into criminality, it begins with money. Or, lack thereof. See, by this time Bill McCoy was making a living building freighters. With the influx of highways being built up and down the coast of Florida, re: Henry Flagler, who was pretty much Florida’s Conrad Hilton, the need for freight ships was way down. Add to Bill’s struggles that his wife left him and both his pious parents had died and we find Bill in a desperate sort of way. So, Bill Mcoy employed his superior boating expertise and dabbled in transporting alcohol from the Bahamas up to New Jersey’s “rum row”. The term “rum row”, refers to the gathering of rum laden ships anchored just beyond the sovereign line of any given port. Many states along the east coast had rum rows. 

He eventually made enough to buy a schooner he named Tomoka after the river in Holly Hill. But, McCoy was no smuggling chump out for a few runs and a few dollars. He enterprised and franchised this shit with a fleet of boats under his purview. Bill even invented a new style of rumrunning on a scale that would’ve made Lucky Luciano raise an eyebrow. He bribed a British official in Nassau, which was still under the crown at the time, to register his boats as British vessels. Therefore, as long as he stayed 3 miles from the coast of the U.S. he was doing nothing illegal. Bill began selling his booze from large ships anchored offshore to smaller independent vessels that would mule it in. Good thing there was no RICO Act back then. Building his operation into an empire he was essentially the Al Capone of the water. But, there’s one more aspect of this wanton endeavor that solidified his legacy. 

Many runners of that day would water down their spirits to increase profit. Be it because of some moral aptitude or due to the fact that Bill had himself started drinking by this time and appreciated quality, but he would never compromise his product by cutting it with water. McCoy became a legend in his time for having the best rum. Thus, whenever a potential customer inquired about the veracity of their purchase they asked whether or not it was the “real McCoy”? This wasn’t just for the sake of integrity, but for safety. Recall that there were lots of “homemade” spirits making the rounds. This might be the domain of hipsters with a home brewing kit nowadays, but during prohibition it meant unregulated alcohol pervading the public and making people sick. Even to death, at times. Kind of reminds me of what we’re experiencing now with government controlled substances vs. street level drugs. Like high engagement bartenders in this, our modern day, Bill McCoy took pride in having the knowledge and means to provide upper crust quality spirits en masse. A prohibition era Robin Hood, of sorts. For this, I admire the man. 

Soon Bill McCoy became the focus of Attorney General Mabel Walker Willebrandt. Prohibition wasn’t a gender issue, but it’s worth noting that some of the biggest players in the teetotaler movement were indeed women's leagues against drinking. Between Willebrandt and some of the organized crime families bearing down on him McCoy began to feel the pressures of empire. 

On 23 November, 1923 the the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Seneca set upon Tomoka, irrespective of them being in international waters. The crew of Seneca boarded Tomoka and under fire McCoy was forced to surrender. 

In court Bill McCoy gave this statement, “I have no tale of woe to tell you. I was outside the three-mile limit, selling whisky, and good whisky, to anyone and everyone who wanted to buy.” 

Forgoing a drawn out trial McCoy plead guilty consequently serving a 9 month sentence. His is one of those rare cases of maritime scallywaggery that didn’t end dangling from a rope. McCoy served his time and retired back to Florida where he invested in real estate and took up boat building once again. Thus, perpetuating the long list of scoundrels retiring to Florida in relative obscurity. 

There’s more to indulge ourselves in regarding the rum wars and prohibition, but that, my friends, is for another day and another drink. 

So, how did this hero of prohibition get his own rum brand and a drink named after his trade? 

There are two prevailing theories regarding the Rumrunner’s origin. The first is linked to New Orleans and a book entitled Famous New Orleans Drinks And How To Mix Them by one Stanley Clisby Arthur, circa 1937. This is not the popular modern version brandished by so many beach bars today, but its naming reflects the superlative predisposition New Orleans holds to rebellious celebration. The recipe also displays the city's ties to tropical drinks as well as a precursor to Donn the Beachcomber’s style. Being a simple punch riff the 30’s Rumrunner is a tip of the straw fedora to the Caribbean with an added touch of Peychaud’s to give it that NOLA touch. However, I’ve been drinking in New Orleans and can attest that the NOLA touch ain’t no tap on the shoulder. More like a punch in the liver. 

Here’s the recipe:

1 oz Light Rum

1 oz Jamaican Rum 

1 oz Pineapple Juice

¾ oz Lime Juice

¾ oz Simple Syrup

2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters

I interpreted “light rum”, as a silver Puerto Rican rum based on other similar recipes from the era. For Jamaican rum I used, big shocker, Myers’s Dark. I’ll come back to this later. Presently, let’s get to the more familiar modern drink.  

This popular version takes us to another prohibition port of call - the Florida Keys. Islamorada, to be specific, at the Holiday Isle Tiki Bar in the early 1970’s. Bar manager John Elber purportedly invented his Rumrunner in order to clear out old inventory. That is overwhelmingly obvious in the ingredient list. Especially, through the use of so many add liqueurs. Namely, banana and blackberry. Also, the rums are very vague. Light rum, and Navy strength rum. This suggests bartenders were probably instructed to use whatever bottles were excess and throw the overproof in there perhaps to dissuade patrons from overthinking what they were drinking. After a few of these in the Florida sun you’re not thinking of much. 

Elber named the Rumrunner after the illustrious history the Keys have in that trade. Since then the drink has come to represent tropical beachside tippling at large. The first time I recall having one was a frozen concoction under the thatched roof of the Tiki bar deck at Coconuts on the Beach in Cocoa Beach, Florida. 

I should say, this is one of those drinks that’s totally acceptable to serve frozen. But, today we’re going to focus on the liquid OG. A drink that generally goes together, that is, there aren’t any contradicting flavors, but also a drink that doesn’t necessarily make sense in breaking any new ground. More like a ground that was broken and prepped for greatness, but the builders ran out of funds and let it sit fallow till grass sprouted from the mounds of earth. Then, a second, less reputable, builder came in and put up a paper structure on the previously tilled ground. 

Here’s the recipe I’ve deduced as being the best version:

1 oz Planterey 3 Star (or heavy light rum)

1 oz  Hamilton Demerara 151

1 oz Banana Liqueur 

1 ¼  oz Lime Juice

2  oz Pineapple Juice

½ oz Grenadine

¼ oz Blackberry Liqueur 

Shake everything with crushed ice and open pour into a Hurricane Glass. I feel like the use of  Hurricane glass here could be an homage to the original New Orleans version. Add a few dashes of Angostura bitters if it’s still too sweet. 

Okay, I have to admit this configuration is pleasant. It just needed some tweaking from the “official” recipe. But, then, this is one of those tropical libations that seems to avail itself to interpretation. The original version only had 1 oz of lime juice but ½ oz of Blackberry liqueur. This caused the dark fruit to be very prevalent. I wanted it to be lighter and beachy, but it tasted like a poor man's Singapore Sling. Not really sure what the idea of this drink is. Blackberry and grenadine give a knock-off Heering taste. There’s so many better drinks in this vein out there. But, then again, it was thrown together to get rid of old inventory. 

My updated recipe dials back the blackberry and, wallah!, the banana comes springing to the fore. Rum became present, but still a bit too sugary for me with all the liqueurs. So, I increased the lime juice by ¼ oz to keep it tropically tart. 

The best version still tastes a little too much like a wannabe Singapore Sling. I suppose if you are going to order one, hope it comes like this. Balanced, at least. Heavier light rum like Probitas or Planterey 3 Star adds a creamy body to the texture. Essence of banana is present but in an artificial flavor kind of way. 

All in all. Stay away from this abomination. Holy shit, it’s such a beach bar staple that I really wanted to like it. I should’ve known when NONE of the top authors in Tiki or tropicalia mention it in their books.

It’s a tropical punch and if you handed me one beside the pool on a cruise ship I would drink it and say, “It’s pretty cool that the bartender is trying to make something classy.” Perhaps I’m being too hard on the ol’ Rumrunner. It’s not terrible, I suppose. My main gripe is that it tastes like an already more famous drink. If John Elber was a songwriter here in Nashville I would advise the Raffles Hotel sue him for plagiary. 

This is an unrefined, liqueur heavy, cloyingly sweet, boozy for the sake of just getting drunk not enjoying a cocktail, cocktail. I haven’t had a tropical let down this bad since that one night in Jamaica. However, here’s a pro tip: Omit the pineapple juice and this actually becomes a wonderful punch! 

But, what about that first 30’s era New Orleans Rumrunner we discussed earlier? This is definitely not the rumrunner we know, but the one we love. This is a way better cocktail. Balanced, tasty, tropical. It's for sure just a punch riff, but it’s way better than trying to overcomplicate with all the other junk ingredients. However, it’s not widely accepted as the Rumrunner proper, even though it should be in my opinion. The bitters and austerity of ingredients keeps it decorous and cocktailesque. 

There’s one more facet of Bill McCoy’s legacy we should address before wrapping things up. If you enjoy perusing the isles of your fine rum purveyors like I do you’ve probably seen or even bought a rum called Real McCoy. Furthermore, if you’re a rummy like myself you know that it’s made by one of the premier rum producers in the Caribbean. Foursquare Distillery in Barbados. Foursquare not only keeps in the tradition of unblemished rum by not adding any additional sugars to their rum, but another fact I’ve stumbled upon over the years is that the Real McCoy line is the same as Foursquare's high end rum offerings which they sell under their own name, only proofed down to a more approachable ABV. 

The spirit comes in a blanco, which is great for Mojito, daiquiris, or cocktails calling for light rum. The flagship 5yr rum is an amazing example of Caribbean spice Barbados is known for with a little butterscotch on the finish. It’s what I usually get. If you’re feeling more refined the 12yr kicks the pepper up a bit while smoothing out the nuance. I prefer the 5yr, but the 12yr is an incredible rum. If you’re one of those leather tongues who needs some pain to feel alive may I direct you to the Prohibition Tradition Rum 100yr Anniversary 12yr. Aged in American ex-bourbon and Virgin white oak casks this throwback is bottled at 100 proof and was released a few years back to commemorate the 100 years since Bill McCoy’s prolific prohibition prowess. 6,000 bottles were produced in that first run. I’m not sure if it’s a yearly release but I can still find it around me. 

If you’re into Tiki you’re probably into mixing up your own drinks at home. You may even be a rum nerd. In such cases we’re often left with random ingredients. Usually liqueurs or odd bitters, but also some specialty spirits at times. Maybe you’ve found yourself in this completely hypothetical scenario in which perhaps you’re relaxing on the back porch. There’s a good cigar resting in the ashtray and offering streams of fragrant smoke up to the gods. Pencil Thin Mustache by Jimmy Buffett presently plays from a speaker. The sun is saying goodnight to your little portion of the planet with striations of violet and celestial hot pink painted across the sky like so many thin brush strokes fading to a dark azure that could be the inverted image of an evening sea on the horizon. You just settled into an old comfortable adirondack chair when you hear a voice. Is this an angel? The voice of God? Of A God or The God? No, it’s your wife bellowing her common refrain from in the house. “Can you make me a delicious adult drink!”

You get up, go inside, and realize you have nothing that makes a standard beverage. So, you’re forced to get creative. 

I’ve made up lots of drinks I’ll never remember how to recreate. Some really good ones, even. Even though they probably tasted way better then in my already faded mind. Therefore, I can’t tease John Elber too much for creating the Rumrunner. It has, after all, become a legend much in the same way its namesakes did. It’s just always better to create out of desire and not just to use up old stock. Hence why there’s been a bottle of Cruzan Black Strap in my bar for 3 years. Just make sure when the notion of extemporaneous tippling tips your way to keep the liqueurs to a minimum and when it comes to spirits always use the real McCoy! 

Sources: liquor.com, diffordsguide.com, theeducatedbarfly.com, wikipedia.com 

We have some exciting stuff in the works and please let me know if I’ve missed any classics we haven’t covered yet. Most of all be safe and Keepi Tiki!

Pod Tiki: Tradewinds

In the art of Tiki we owe so much to Jamaica. Literally, in the sense of the most widely utilized style of rum, there are few classic Tiki drinks that don’t call for some measure of Jamaican rum, and figuratively, by way of a culture and terrain which sets the scene for our idea of tropical.  

Southeast of disorder, and the crazy-wang of the U.S. we call Florida, lies the third largest island in the West Indies. While driving along the coast from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios our driver facetiously pointed out the bay where Columbus “discovered” them. Of course, in my head I thought since he was of African descent his people wouldn’t have been there when ol’ Colombo came ashore. That would’ve been Taino natives. The very same who inhabited Cuba and are the progenitors of modern cigars. 

When I began Pod Tiki I was travelling a lot. The premise of the show was supposed to be me going to tropical locales and sharing my personal experiences as a framing narrative to talk about cocktails. Then, my life pivoted, as lives tend to do at the most inconvenient of times with no regard to one’s plans whatsoever. What’s that old saying about how to make GOD laugh? I’ve had some amazing experiences since then exploring places in my home country and the misses and I have some overseas excursions in the works for next year. Yet, something in the recesses of my soul keeps me umbilically connected to the tropics; And the place that stands out to me so far as the ideal of “topical” is Jamaica. 

Swaying Royal Palms lining the street through the slats of wooden jalousie windows. Cool Kenny’s nightly rum punch on the veranda. Warm limbic waters placidly lapping over ocean sands so soft it’s no wonder they call it a sea bed. Walking seaside to the end of Kent Avenue where a tiny beach shack served up coconut Wray & Nephew with Coke. Silhouettes of palm trees on the mountain encircling the bay under a purple sky at dusk, and exploring little beaches around the island all as picturesque. This is my tropical paradise. When I close my eyes it’s where I go. 

The song 6 Days on my EP, (Available on Spotify. Search - Tony Manfetano. Shameless plug), was about my best friend and I being stranded on the island during a hurricane that didn’t affect us at all but closed airports in Florida so we couldn’t get home. My situation is no aviation…

But, it’s not just my intimate regard that carries the proverbial torch for Jamaica. This Caribbean nation has stood as a foundation for so much of the iconography utilized in Tropiki. From the discovery of the New World to Captain Morgan’s conquest to Errol Flynn’s debauchery to Donn the Beachcomber’s exotica Jamaica has been the canvas on which our portrait of tropicalia has been fashioned. In every brush stroke of history a new and nuanced notion of paradismal paradox. Oh, and who could forget the rum? 

In fact, we’re going to celebrate this island’s wonderful rum in today’s cocktail. A delightfully esoteric local concoction called Tradewinds. 

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki. 

Before Haile Selassie, Bob Marley, or Usain Bolt. Before Buccaneers, slavers, and the English crown. Way before white boy reggae, the bobsled team, and bloviating Tiki podcasts, there were Taino. The Taino were one of the largest groups, besides the Caribe peoples for which the Caribbean is named, to inhabit the West Indies. Why do we call it the West Indies? Well, because Columbo got lost and thought Key West was Asia. Good thing he didn’t show up during Fantasy Fest. The Florida Straits may’ve ended up as the Florida Gays! 

The Taino are presumed to have arrived on the island they called Xaymaca from South America around 800. A mostly agrarian people who shared a dialect with mainland’s Arawak, the Taino are interpreted as being more peaceful than their Caribe neighbors. As previously hinted they were among the first to cultivate tobacco for smoking. They would bunch it up in primitive cylindrical shapes and smoke in a ceremony called the Cohiba worshipping the god Behike. My cigar smokers out there will recognize those names. 

They enjoyed a pretty long run till 1494 when ol’ Christopher Columbus showed up. If you’re saying, “Wait a cotton-pickin’ minute. The ocean blue was sailed in 1492!” You’re correct. Columbus didn’t make it over to Jamaica till his second voyage to the New World. Lucky them. The story gets pretty bleak at this part. We should all know what happened. Indigenous Tainos began dying off exponentially due to disease or enslavement under Spanish rule. Both, in most cases. Though, some Tainos managed to escape into the mountains forming breakaway tribes called Maroons. Having no contact outside their small groups these sovereign Maroons lend their etymology to the phrase “being marooned”. With the labor force in such decline African slaves began being imported, sparking a slave trade that would last for centuries and subsequently populate the island. 

Something I didn’t know before studying for this episode was that there was also a large contingent of Jews during this time who fled to Jamaica fearing the Spanish Inquisition. This will come back up later. 

This is where it gets interesting. You see, once the English got wind of all this colonizing going on across the pond they said, “hold my tea”, and decided today was their day to get some of that sweet-sweet sugarcane profit. Pun intended. (That’s one of the benefits of being a dad, I always intend my puns.) Thusly, they sent William Penn and Robert Venables to invade Jamaica in 1655. After two years of battles the Maroons came down from the mountains and fought for the English. Subsequently, they overtook the Spanish in Ocho Rios and assumed control of the island. 

Now it gets more interesting. As Spain made several attempts to recapture the island the British employed privateers to engage Spanish ships. Issuing letters or marque to bands of pirates known as Buccaneers. The most famous of which was led by one Captain Henry Morgan. Skipping ahead over a montage of battles Captain Morgan set up shop in the Jamaican town of Port Royal. Now, Port Royal was already established as a major port city in the Caribbean but, after oh captain, my captain arrived with his band of merry men it might as well have been the pirate version of Fantasy Fest. Well before Blackbeard left footprints in the sand at Nassau, Port Royal was the first real pirate haven.  After another debaucherous montage, Port Royal ended up resembling scenes from Disney’s Pirates of the Caribbean ride. Drinking, gambling, ladies of ill repute. Agast! 

From Port Royal Captain Morgan launched some of his most lucrative raids including Panama and Maracaibo. Another pirate montage and, oops, there might’ve been a nip slip in that one, aaaand, we’re to 1674 when Captain Henry Morgan became the Lieutenant Governor of Jamaica. For he was technically not a pirate, but a privateer under the auspices of the British crown and his raids garnered enough riches to make the head that wears the crown even heavier. 

Later in his governorship it’s said that Morgan began persecuting pirates in order to clean up Port Royal, though, a conspiracy persists that this was a clever ruse and he actually showed clemency to many privateers turned pirate who sailed alongside him. Captain Morgan died in 1688, in no short measure due to his proclivity for alcohol. It seems only Papa Hemingway himself rivaled the good captain for indulgence. They were very “spirited” individuals, if you catch my drift. It seems Captain Morgan cut such a large figure that even the land itself could not sustain without its patron because in 1692, four years after Morgan’s demise, an earthquake crumbled Port Royal into the sea. 

The next montage is kinda boring but it takes us all the way to 1838 when England finally emancipated all slaves under the crown. This wasn’t an immediate fix as indentured servants from China and Southeast Asia now filled those roles. In fact, many Jamaicans today are of mixed descendancy from Africans and Asians as well as the Jews who took refuge there centuries earlier. Rastafarianism is, after all, an Abrahamic religion. 

Another thing I hadn’t realized is how new Jamaica is as a nation. In 1958 Jamaica became part of the Federation of the West Indies under British rule. It wasn’t till 1962 that Jamaica gained independence, although it still operates as a commonwealth of Great Britain. A constitutional monarchy with its own parliamentary government under the current King Charles III as its sovereign. 

In the modern day Jamaica held onto its seductive and lecherous pastimes becoming the “party house” of the Caribbean. A place where the parents are never home so the party rages well into the decades. At the center of this midcentury debauchery was the Myrtle Bank Hotel hosting notables the likes of Winston Churchill, Louis Armstrong, Walt Disney and most heathenistic of them all, Errol Flynn. 

We’re not going to go too in depth on the Myrtle Bank as there are other cocktails born there that will serve as a deep dive into that historic tropical temple. However, I cannot understate the significance of Myrtle Bank as pretty much party central for Jamaica. Throughout the Podcast I’ve made various references to Errol Flynn’s less than savory nature and I promise I will pay that off this year with an autumnal pick me up. (If you know, you know.)

I’ll say here that before Cuba became “prohibition playground” Jamaica, and specifically the Myrtle Bank Hotel, in Kingston, was capital T The place to see and be seen and then not be seen by Hollywood elites and voyeurs alike. I mean, we’re talking about the place where the modern Planter’s Punch was invented. (See that episode for full disclosure.) But, while Flynn’s suave pencil thin mustache spent time in the clammy tropical regions rubbing up against other people’s clammy tropical regions Mr. Ernest Gantt, better known to us as Donn The Beachcomber, was putting his time in Jamaica to good use inventing a lifestyle.  

Circa 1927 a young Donn Beach was circling the Caribbean. Being the master raconteur that he was I doubt we’ll ever know the true story of his early life, but by his own account after he got too big for rum running through the gulf he set out to explore the islands. Running booze from the Caribbean, through the gulf, and into Louisiana was a popular route during prohibition. So, this part could check out.  With some reports having him spend time in Jamaica as a child I like to think he started off there and slowly made his way from port to port gathering not only trinkets and tropical detritus, but also an acute understanding of rum from each island region. 

I’ve read a lot about Donn Beach and to my knowledge there’s no real account of his travails through the Caribbean. An irrefutable fact is that Donn knew his craft inside and out and understood how to ply that craft in a way no one had ever imagined - his Rhum Rhapsodies. Pioneering the idea of blending rums from different regions to create abstract and layered new flavors his cocktails were truly songs. Beautiful sonnets elating all the senses with tales of exotic places far far away. And like a good song, there is a through-line. A chord in which the rest of the melody clings to or searches for such that even in the throws of the wildest jazz or ethereal exotica there’s a familiar note hanging like a beam from a lighthouse. In Donn Beach’s rhapsodies that chord was Jamaican rum. 

His first famous drink, the Zombie, is a perfect example of this. Before bolstering the body with light Spanish style rum, then punching us in the tongue with bold rum from the Demerara River, he laid a foundation by way of dried fruit and molasses notes found in dark Jamaican rum. 

About now, those of you with better rum knowledge than me are grumbling to yourself about how many different kinds of rum there are in Jamaica alone. Thus, referring to Jamaican rum as a sovereign style is misleading. I will do my best to run through several styles of Jamaican rum when we get to the ingredients. 

Whether it was the promethean Planter’s Punch, Don the Beachcomber’s Zombie, or Trader Vic’s Mai Tai the most infamous Tiki drinks are indeed predicated on Jamaican rum. 

Jamaica remains a source of inspiration evidenced by how reggae has spread to white people from the mid-Atlantic all the way to california and even crossed the great Pacific to hawaii like so many out-rigger canoes. How we’ve turned reggae into club music, ganja into medicine, and relegated Rastafarianism to colorful knit caps with sewn in dreadlocks shows the sad truth and the pervasive cultural influence Jamaica has had on the U.S. I’m kinda serious about the Rasta caps. What other religion gets so openly mocked? Then again, I have seen people go as Jesus for Halloween. So, there’s that. 

Now, like every good history lesson should be, we’re going to follow it up with a libation! Let’s make a drink. 

Let's run through the other ingredients first so we can spend time on Jamaican rum. First let’s talk about the recipe. I came upon this drink in Jeff Berry’s book Remixed. With not much story on its history I reached out to Jeff. Being the gracious and knowledgeable fellow he is, Jeff was able to tell me he found the recipe in a xeroxed copy of a book called The Jamaican Bartender. This source had no noted author and none of the recipes cited any ownership other than they were, "submitted by recognized bartenders from most of the major hotels island-wide."

Jeff took a liking to the Tradewinds and published it in his early book, Taboo Table. It was republished in Remixed in 2009 where he tooled it up to a communal beverage serving 4. He was kind enough to forward me this singular recipe from his original xeroxed copy. 

3/4 oz. Light Rum

3/4 oz. Dark Rum

3/4 oz. Apricot Liqueur

3/4 oz. Coconut Cream

1 oz. Lemon Juice

Blend with shave ice [ I USED 1 CUP CRUSHED ICE ]

This is the recipe I’m using here. In his publications Jeff turned the light rum into light Puerto Rican rum and the dark into dark Jamaican rum. This presumably based on the tenor of other recipes in his copy and an understanding of common practices at the time and place. 

For PR rum one can use Bacardi, Don Q, Havana Club Anejo Blanco, or any clear Spanish style.  My apricot liqueur is Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot. The same we used in the Hotel Nacional cocktail last episode. After using it in a few drinks now I understand why it’s one of the industry standards. It offers a good fruit flavor without being cloyingly sweet. I used Coco Lopez for the coconut cream. This is the brand professional Tiki bartenders and writers recommend. I’ve used a few different ones, including Goya or that one that comes in the squeeze bottle, which is way easier to use and keeps a lot longer. Once you open a can of Coco Lopez it’s open and you have only so long to use it. The differences are negligible but, I’m still a purist at heart so I stuck with the messy can. Then there’s fresh lemon juice. This brightens the drink up and works remarkably well with coconut cream, which I was not expecting. 

Finally, we get to Jamaican rum. The various brands of Jamaica offer all kinds of rums in the more traditional sense of white, gold, or dark. Although, Jamaica stands out with the prevalence of its black rums. A defining factor of Jamaica rum is what you may’ve heard been called the “funk”. This is a ripe fruit/burnt molasses note that is created in a few ways. In the case of the black blending rums, the ones most utilized in Tiki mixing, this flavor stems from the further addition of molasses at the end of distillation. That’s where the rich burnt sugar flavor comes from. The other reason Jamaican rum is known for a funky flavor is the use of Pot Distillation. 

The most widely used method of distillation is using a column still. After fermentation molasses is distilled down to a clear super clean spirit and then bolstered back into the flavorful expression we all know and love through aging. This is a continuous system and is able to refine and distill large quantities of rum. Pot Still distillation, on the other hand, is more akin to your standard moonshine rig. In a copper pot fermented molasses is distilled in individual batches. This type of distillation retains more concentrated esters in the rum. Esters are the chemical compounds formed in rum distillation that give it those dried burnt fruit notes. These are created in all rums but usually filtered or distilled out. In Pot Still Jamaican rum these flavors are not only left in, but highlighted. 

That’s the science, but personally, I never was good at chemistry. I’m definitely the Jessie Pinkman in this scenario. Therefore, let’s try to say this in working man’s rum speak. Wray & Nephew Overproof. RumFire. Smith & Cross. Open the bottle and smell. Straightaway you’ll recognize a pungent, ripe banana note. Take a sip and those characteristics bleed into your taste and olfactory senses. That’s pot still at its fullest strength. A dark Jamaican rum like Myers’s or Coruba has those notes, but they’re dampened through proofing down and the addition of dunder. Dunder is a small concentrated amount of a previous distillate added into a fresh batch. This could also include some additional molasses as stated earlier. This renders a darker, more dried fruit, richness. Esters can also be aged out of Jamaican rum making it smoother and bringing mild fruit and sweetness to the fore. Think, a nice cognac. This is presented in higher end offerings like Hampden Estate. The latter being a staple among connoisseurs, but slept on a bit in the sipping rum world. The price tag isn’t what I’d call inclusive, but a bottle a year for special occasions is well worth the price of admission. Now, open a bottle of beloved Appleton Estate and you’ll notice almost no funk at all. This is due to the fact that Appleton uses a combination of pot and column stills. We get some of the deep rich essence but in a crisper milder delivery. In these rums depth and complexity is added through aging. 

This is a very basic overview of an intricate process but, I hope it explains some of the wild variance that can occur in rums even of similar providence. These differences in rich culture and terroir are the reason why so many of us are beguiled into this strange and tropical realm of rum. 

You may’ve heard me refer to Jamaican rum as British style. This style of rum refers to any of the rum producing colonies under British rule. Jamaica and Guyana being the most prevalent. Rums distilled in these regions would occasionally be sent off to England for aging until it was discovered that the Caribbean climate was necessary to render the desired results. Nowadays, as is the case with Smith & Cross, I believe, the rum is distilled and aged in Jamaica before being sent to England for bottling. The history of rum and His Majesty’s Navy is detailed in our Navy Grog episode which I highly recommend. A brief recap; The British Navy included rum rations as part of a sailors pay from 1655 all the way up 1970. This tradition ended on 1 July 1970 on a day known as “Black Tot Day”, when British Naval ships were ordered to dump all remaining barrels of rum rations overboard. After a day long party to drink up as much as possible, of course. Think about all that rum sitting on the bottom of the English Channel. If Mer-folk do exist, they had quite the party that night. 

In 2016, Jamaican rum was granted geographical indication protection. It’s one of the only regulations in rum production and solidified Jamaican rum as the venerable genre defining spirit it is. For use in the Tradewinds cocktail I’m choosing my favorite dark Jamaican mixing rum, Meyers’s Dark. I feel like it has more funk, complex fruitiness, and nuanced depth than its cousin Coruba, which aids in standing out amid the strong flavors of Tiki. 

Tradewinds is a slushy blended concoction and there isn’t any style of drinking vessel mentioned. So, I chose to use a coconut Tiki mug. A cocktail umbrella and my bamboo glass straw from Surfside Sips act as the only garnish but, I can see a mint sprig adding to the freshness of the experience.  

Okay, first sip? Wow! Tangy with light creamy undertones. Like an apricot version of creamsicle. I expected a coconut cream bomb as often is the case with that ingredient, but this is certainly not that. This is balanced and nuanced and down right delicious! Not what I expected, at all. The lemon juice certainly brightens up the drink but dark rum is definitely present in the base notes. 

This is really a wonderful drink to highlight and feature Jamaican rum in a cocktail that represents the island without being just another punch. In that vein I’m curious what some overproof Wray & Nephew would do in here instead of light Puerto Rican rum. 

Overall, Tradewinds is what a pina colada becomes when it graduates college, throws away all the empty bottles of Absolut above the cabinets, and learns how to drink with class. It’s the Target to Pina Colada’s Walmart. I simply can’t say enough about how this drink blew me away and with an open can of coconut cream I venture the misses and I will be enjoying these by the pool for weeks to come. 

You know, in all facets of cocktalia there are classics, and Tiki is no different. We’ve covered a lot of them on this podcast. Yet, exploring all the spinoffs and local libations can be like visiting a tropical destination. You can stay at the resort, enjoying a curated idealistic experience, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that. You could walk around town to explore a bit more immersive culture, stopping in to expat bars and eateries. Perhaps taking in some regional music and art. Or, if you’re willing to expose yourself, you may venture towards some of the uncomfortable undergoings that take you deep into the belly of the local zeitgeist. Dancehalls, street parties, sidewalk vendors. Maybe you even forgo a taxi opting for Mini Moke transportation in a foreign place where road signs are more of a suggestion. A place where the drinks are not as tropical in name but are simple mixes of heavy rum and cola. Perhaps a Dragon Stout. A place where you toss your cigar away because it gives you away but, someone hands you something rolled fat and smelling like the basement in the house you grew up in in a suburb of New York when your dad would take the Christmas decorations out in late autumn. A place where beautiful dark women in scant skintight dresses throw their bodies of exaggerated proportions against you on a dance floor throbbing under the weight of clubhouse reggae music. A place and time when said time loses its hold on your temporal senses and the night becomes blips of scenes. Scenes of music, bodies, smoke and tropical indulgence. Scenes that you try to hold onto, but not terribly hard because there’s a feeling that in that moment you are meant to be doing exactly what you’re doing and only in that moment of all the moments that will ever be and that moment is not meant for any of the moments that will ever come. And the chord that’s holding this beautiful cacophony together is … Jamaican rum. And in the morning you wake up to a warm breeze breathing across your face and you’re not anxious or distraught because you understand that it is the Tradewinds

Sources: Remixed and Potions of the Caribbean by Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, Wikipedia.com, jamaicahotelhistory.com, Google A.I. 

Sponsors - Surfsidesips.com 

Most of all thank you for listening. My name is Tony and this has been Pod Tiki. 

Pod Tiki: Hotel Nacional Special

There are two things that proliferated the Italian/American Mafia. The first was prohibition. The second, Havana. Before Vegas. Before unions. Before Growing Up Gotti, Mob Wives, and Sammy Gravano as a Youtube influencer, there was Havana.  

By 1931 Charles Luciano, nickname Lucky, had been tacitly manipulating New York’s Italian gangs into cohesive crime families under the umbrella of what he called, “This Thing Of Ours”, or “La Cosa Nostra.” Playing the long game he didn’t immediately place himself at the head of this organization, preferring to orchestrate from the shadows. That is, until Vito Genovese began challenging his authority, claiming himself head of Luciano’s crime family. Genovese was also ruffling feathers by encroaching into the other family’s rackets. 

This whole time Luciano alongside his buddy Bugsy Seigal and a Polish Jew they’d become acquainted with by the name of Meyer Lansky had been growing their operations in gambling, extortion, and bootlegging. You see, Meyer Lansky had an almost savant level understanding of numbers and bookmaking. Bugsy was a consummate tough guy and Lucky had the connections. 

With Genovese continuing to upset the balance of power and cash flow the stage was set for Lucky and Lansky to make their move. Thus, Luciano called a summit. The biggest names in the mob would all be present. Albert Anastasia, Santo Trafficante Jr., Frank Costello, and … Vito Genovese. I suspect Luciano knew that if he simply took Genovese out that would only perpetuate the power struggle with unnecessary violence. Believe it or not, Lucky wasn’t keen on wacking his own. So, it came to a vote. 

In the winter of 1946, just before Christmas, Lucky Luciano proposed a measure to organize the crime syndicate into five families. The heads of each of these families would make up the “Commision”. Each family would be made up of a boss, an underboss, and consigliere. Followed by capos, soldiers, and associates. He motioned that he himself should head up the Commision. Anastasia seconded the notion. Then Costello. Soon, fearing retribution, Genovese had no choice but to relinquish his aspirations and follow suit. In doing this Lucky Luciano avoided a bloody mafia war and became “Capo de Tutti Capi” - “Boss of All Bosses. 

A version of the meeting was dramatized by Francis Ford Coppola in his masterpiece film The Godfather II, where it culminates in the frenzy of revolution and Fredo famously broke Michael’s heart. In reality, this gathering has come to be known as the Havana Conference and it was hosted in Cuba at the infamous Hotel Nacional.

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki. Wherein today we’re covering a cocktail named for this historic hotel, the Hotel Nacional Special.  

When Faith and I went to Havana we spent a lot of time taking in cafes and architecture, visiting Hemingway shrines and tobacco fields, eating wonderful food in spectacular places, lounging on the beach or the balcony, and of course, imbibing in Cuban rum and cigars and music and dancing. Though, as anyone who’s done even a modest amount of travelling knows, you can rarely experience everything a place has to offer in 5 days. There’s always going to be those one or two things you wished you could’ve gotten to. Faith would have liked to attend more dance clubs and we both wanted to see the museum of art, but ran out of time. However, for me, it was Hotel Nacional. It was actually on our original itinerary but there was a U.S. travel advisory for the hotel, so we decided to skip it. 

Looking back now I realize that may’ve been silly. It’s obviously perpetually under a travel advisory due to its misadventurous history. At the time, despite all the evidence to the contrary presented by friends who’d already been, we were a tad apprehensive already regarding a country who has hated us for so long. After spending time there I can relay personally that I never felt unsafe outside of normal travel precautions and furthermore the people and the culture were friendly and accepting. Oh! - Imagine the friends we could have across the planet if our governments would only keep it in their pants. 

I don’t regret anything from that trip. Not even the argument Faith and I got into because I'm a stubborn selfish ass. I chalk that up to channeling my inner Hemingway. Yet, if I never get to return I might always fantasize about sitting in the gardens of Hotel Nacional having a cocktail and smoking a cigar where Lucky Luciano and Michael Corleone did.  

Before we get to that drink, though. We should explore the history of the Hotel Nacional, including its importance in the rise and fall of not only the Italian-American Mafia, but the starcrossed relations between Cuba and Estados Unidos that have lasted over a century. 

To tackle this we have to go way back to Spain being first to colonize most of the New World.  Both Cuba and Florida were owned by Spain before Florida was sold to the United States and Cuba subsequently won its independence.  

Cuba and what began as part of the Spanish Main, later the U.S. have had a tumultuous familial relationship since their inception. Like siblings who don’t get along at Thanksgiving. There had been rumblings of independence for some time when in 1898 the USS Maine exploded in Havana Harbor killing 266 Americans and prompting the United States to declare war on Spain. During U.S. occupation of Cuba our nations had formed strong bonds both culturally and economically. I.e., Americans love rum and cigars. We still do or you wouldn’t be listening to this podcast. By 1902 Cuba officially won its sovereignty. During this era the U.S. was laying the groundwork behind the scenes to later become a world power. We’re much like Lucky Luciano in this way. Thus, Estados Unidos seized this opportunity to weave itself into Cuban government and business. Much the way we did with Hawaii and the banana republics decades later. 

20 years down the road, during prohibition, bibulous Americans with a penchant for debauchery and the means to travel began flocking to Havana as a sort of playground. While Las Vegas was still a trading post in the desert Havana became The place to go to party. I can’t underscore this enough. Casinos, brothels, fancy tropical hotels, and of course, bars bars and bars serving up all the delectable adult beverages one was used to, but couldn’t legally get back home, as well as these new rum drinks that were gaining popularity thanks to folks like Sloppy Joe’s. All of this was overseen by and predicated on two factions - politicians from Washington and Meyer Lansky. Furthermore, these two sides of the coin were not mutually exclusive. Cuban president Fulgencio Batista was in the pocket of the U.S. government who, at the time, was in the pocket of the Mafia’s Cuban affairs in the sense that the rapacious beast that was Havana tourism was fed by American dollars garnering the U.S. a great deal of political influence in Cuban politics. 

By the early 1950’s one could hop a commuter flight from Miami to Havana, party for the weekend, and be back to work on Monday nary the worse for wear save a rum hangover and some sweaty clothes. 

However, while Hemingway was throwing back some of Constantino’s famous daiquiris at La Floridita, Fidel Castro and Che Guevara were radicalizing towards independence once again. This time from American oversight. Since this is a cocktail podcast and not a Ken Burns documentary I’ll skip over some very culturally important details and simply state that Castro won, there was a whole thing with some pigs in a bay, Hemingway was forced to evacuate his home, which some believe eventually led to his suicide, JFK stocked up on his favorite Cuban cigars before initializing an embargo, the mob closed up shop and moved to Vegas, and Castro, forever holding a grudge against U.S. intervention, decided to slide into bed with the Soviet Union only to discover that the silk sheets in the brochure turned out to be an iron curtain. 

There was another cultural aspect that hits home for me especially. If you visit Havana today or even Miami, you’ll notice a resemblance to Italian-American culture. See, the whole New Yorker retiring to Florida thing is not just a jovial stereotype. Tampa being a hub for cigar manufacturing drew a resounding amount of both Cuban immigrants and Italian. The Cubans had the tobacco knowledge, and the Italians … well, we had the food. As Italian and Cuban factory workers matriculated cultures swapped facets culminating in a unique brand of practices from that part of the world. For instance, the Cuban cafecito coffees we know from Miami are not how they serve it in Havana. There, it’s served up in decorative demitasse cups Italian style. Furthermore, there’s no such thing as a Cuban sandwich in Cuba. The Cubano is an amalgamation of Cuban roasted pork, on Italian bread, with American mustard and pickles. In fact, the Mafia ties even carried over to Tampa with Santo Trafficante as head of the Florida family. Nowadays, the remnants are shown in the Italian only cemetery where tall stone mausoleums still reflect a lot of vowel heavy names. The heart of Cuban culture in Florida moved on to Miami and the Italian migration became a steady flow of retirees setting out coffee and cake when the grandkids visit and playing bocce ball by the pool. 

As a kid growing up in the 80’s and 90’s I caught the last remnants of Cold War propaganda thinking and was led to believe I would never see Havana. This sentiment being relaying in the Billy Joel song Rosalinda’s Eyes where the line goes, “Though I’ll never be there, I know what I would see there. I can always find my Cuban skies, in Rosalinda’s eyes.”  Until 2018 when my wife and I were planning to go to Mexico on vacation and we found out Cuba was open for American travel. Under the Obama administration Cuban/American relations began to lax and finally see some headway towards conciliation. U.S. tourism money flooded in like so many cruise ships. The old squares of Havana were fixed up. Schools and parks were rebuilt. Heritage sights were able to be maintained once again and Cuban shelves were filled with food and medicine. 

Then came Trump. Again, this isn’t a political podcast and I don’t really care about your views. I mean that in the nicest way possible. As in, when we walk into a Tiki bar it’s meant to be an escape from the vicissitudes of daily life and an entrance into a world of exotic tropicalia. That’s what I want this podcast to be. All I will say is that now things are closed off with Cuba and it saddens me because the people there and the people here and the people all across the world are way more similar than we are different and when a few powerful people try to cut us off from sharing in that human experience with others it makes me wonder why they want to keep us discordant. But, blood being thicker than the Florida Straits I don’t think we’ve seen the end of our relations with Cuba.  

Let’s go back, though, to pre-revolution Havana and learn a little bit more about Hotel Nacional, which actually began its life as the National Hotel. The Americanized name is due to the fact that this was an American hotel. Remember, at this time the U.S. exercised an almost imperious presence in Havana. The hotel was designed by New York architectural firm McKim, Mead and White, and financed by the National City Bank of New York. The structure incorporates esoteric blends of styles from Spanish Sevillian, to Roman, and even Art Deco. 

Nestled atop a hill in the Vedado district the National Hotel sits at the top of old Havana overlooking the historic harbor whose defences thwarted even the likes of Francis Drake and Henry Morgan. It stands as a monument to prestige and culture. Who’s culture is still up for debate. 

The National Hotel opened for business in 1930 and was no stranger to controversy even before Lucky’s Havana Conference. Three years after opening its door the hotel was ground zero for what became known as The Battle of The Hotel Nacional de Cuba. Do you remember Fulgencio Batista, the American backed President of Cuba who was overthrown by Castro? Well, in September 1933 then Sergeant Batista, along with approximately 2,000 soldiers, marched up and surrounded the National Hotel where the Army Chief of Staff, Julio Sanguily Echarte, was convalescing from a stomach ulcer. Turns out Batista had declared himself the new Army Chief of Staff. Now, Batista’s standing army notwithstanding, Echarte did have the support of about 400 high ranking military officials who joined him at the hotel which had become their stronghold. A headquarters for the resistance. 

Tensions were exacerbated by the fact that Sumner Welles, the United States Ambassador to Cuba, was also living in the hotel at the time. Knowing what we know now regarding how the U.S. would later ingratiate themselves within Batista’s regime I almost wonder if Welles being there was no coincidence. If not an agent provocateur himself I at least posit that he may have been observing and setting up schemes for down the road. Political landmines, if you will. 

The fighting officially began in early October when it’s purported that the offending army shot first. But the Officials holed up inside were strategically placed on the high ground and with sufficient cover. Not to mention these were not some geeks off the street. They were handy with the steel, if you know what I mean. Seriously, these were wartime veterans, many having fought against Spain in Cuba’s War for Independence. Using the windows and angles on various floors of the hotel the officers exercised excellent marksmanship and critical positioning to their advantage. At the end of 11 hours of fighting Batista’s army registered 30 casualties while the officers suffered just 2. While officers in the hotel began getting reports of their homes being ransacked and their families being held captive, Batista positioned his Navy to bambard the hotel from the harbor. After 2 days of battle, low on ammunition and supplies, the officers in the hotel were forced to surrender. At least a dozen of them were subsequently executed at Batista’s orders. 

Following the battle the National Hotel was closed until 1939 when it reopened as The Hotel Nacional de Cuba. 

By the mid-1950’s Batista was president and making money and the U.S. government was making money and the mob was making money and Constantino was shaking up daiquiris and Papa Hemingway finally found the most peace he had ever known. A peace which would soon be broken. On the first of January 1959 Castro’s revolutionaries entered Havana to wrest power away from Batista in a military coup framed as liberating Cuba from a corrupt government now all but controlled by American interests. 

The hotel’s status as a world heritage sight couldn’t keep it safe either. During the Cuban missile crisis anti-aircraft artillery was positioned about the grounds and a series of tunnels were built under the property. While under Soviet reign Castro closed the casino and blocked tourism to Havana, but after the USSR fell he reopened for tourism in the face of economic catastrophe. In 1997 the hotel was the sight of a terrorist bombing aimed at disrupting tourism once again. 

Hotel Nacional de Cuba remains open today under the auspices of the Cuban communist government. A testament to the tired notion that we should be tentative of our heroes lest corruption beguiles even the best of intentions. 

Amid all that turmoil the Hotel Nacional was a glistening ode towards opulence and indulgence in tropical beauty of all kinds. It was from this state of unbridled passion that emerged the Hotel Nacional Special.  

How it emerged is another one of those controversies of cocktailia that we’re so familiar with in Tiki ancestry. 1939’s Gentleman's Companion by Charles H. Baker Jr. credits the drink to Wil P. Taylor. This checks out in the sense that Taylor was in fact manager of the Hotel Nacional between 1931 and 1933 when the drink is believed to be invented. In fact, Taylor was on duty during the great Battle. However, this claim is challenged by our old friend Eddie Woelke who appropriated ownership in his own book, The Barman’s Mentor, released in 1936. 

We detailed Eddie’s story when we discussed another of his famous cocktails, El Presidente, in a previous episode. It’s a great story and I implore you to go back and check that one out if you haven’t already. One interesting part of his story relevant to this episode is that Eddie didn’t work at the hotel, but the Gran Casino Nacional, which was under the same ownership but only loosely affiliated. Though, affiliated enough it’s quite possible, and probable, that being under the same umbrella and having eponymous similarities that recipes very well could have been shared between the two entities. 

Both Talyor and Woelke have legitimate liens on the cocktail and both Taylor and Woelke have legitimate arguments against them. In Woelke’s book he claims to have invented Cuban drinks that are on record before his time in Cuba. Also, he writes that he was the first person to strain a daiquiri and purports to be inventor of the Mary Pickford cocktail. The latter being disputed as created at another Havana hotel, the Sevilla-Biltmore, by one Fred Kuafman. Thing is, Kaufman was a friend of Eddie’s, worked at the Nacional at one point, and is, in fact, also credited as a possible inventor of the Hotel Nacional cocktail.

The controversy of Taylor’s claim is that the one who made it, Charles H. Baker Jr., was a friend of Taylor’s and was known to have credited friends of his with drinks they didn’t invent in other writings. Most egregiously the capital D Daiquiri itself! Which, if any one man can be held responsible for that delightful little demon, would be Canstanino Ribalgua Vert of La Floridita fame. 

My personal opinion from the facts we have is that either Eddie Woelke, or Fred Kuafman, or both created the Hotel Nacional drink and Wil P. Taylor did what people in power do and took the credit for it. Each’s recipe is very similar. The only differences being Woelke used light rum while Taylor used gold and Woelke calls for Apricot Brandy and Taylor asks for Apricot Liqueur. From what I gather Woelke’s version is the most widely used. Not to mention it’s the one Jeff Berry printed in his cocktail bible, Potions of the Caribbean.  

So, who wants to make a drink already?! 

When it comes to these original Cuban cocktails nothing else holds a Che shaped candle to real Cuban rum. My all time favorite rum, hands down, no contest, sans pareil, is Havana Club 3 Años. This 3 year aged white rum is crisp and fruity with a full body patina of flavor and smooth texture. Maybe it’s the water or the local sugarcane varieties but something in that rum makes it different from any other expression I’ve tasted; and I’ve tasted a lot of rum. For research purposes, of course. It’s versatile in that it is great for sipping or blending in the drinks it was created alongside. I’m talking OG funkadelics like Daiquiris, Mojitos, El Presidente, Cuba Libre, and the Hotel Nacional. 

I’m not saying it’s the best rum in every category, but it covers the spread so well in all of them that it ranks the highest in my book, followed by Havana Club 7 Años and Santiago de Cuba. (If you’re wondering, my favorite rum stateside is Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva.) 

All that to say, there is no substitute available in the U.S., at least not readily available or not cost prohibitive. So, what is a Tikimun to do in this year of our Lord 2025? We have a few options here. Jeff Berry recommends Plantarey 3 Star which I agree makes the best Daiquiri available and has pretty much been the industry standard since it came on the market, but doesn’t really taste like Cuban rum. The Jamaican component adds a tad too much funk. I see what he’s going for, though. If we were making Mojitos I would say go ahead and grab that light, crisp, fruity bottle of Bacardi or Don Q. That’s a bright, effervescent drink. But, in a Daiquiri or Daiquiri riff such as the Hotel Nacional, the flavor of rum is the crux. The base of the whole palate. Therefore, we want to use a light rum, keeping in tradition with the light Spanish style rums of the era, but with enough body and flavor to hold its own against sugar, lime, or whatever more myriad means modern mixology muses. Plantarey 3 Star does this swimmingly. 

I also wanted to try this drink with a classic Spanish Style light rum. That is the fruitier more floral rums coming from the Latin Caribbean islands. I thought this would be a fun time to experiment with Havana Club Anejo Blanco. This Havana Club is made in Puerto Rico and claims to use the original Havana Club recipe from 1878 by original owner José Arechabala before Castro nationalized the brand. This Havana Club is produced by Bacardi and aged up to 1 ½ yrs before bottling. I’ve used it before and truly I find the Puerto Rican Havana Club, Bacardi Silver, and Don Q Cristal to all be quite similar. I’m just using the Havana Club this time for funsies. And yes, I know referring to two Havana Club brands is confusing, but it has to do with foreign copyright law and who acknowledges who’s rights and all that. Kinda like how China doesn’t recognize our Trademarks. This is how we get all that plastic garbage from Temu that sorta-not really-kinda resembles our name brands. 

All that notwithstanding, I still wanted to try and find a close approximation to what the drink would’ve tasted like when Eddie was mixing them up. There are 3 rums I vacillate between when I’m looking for Cubanesque. Flor de Caña 3yr Blanco from Nicaragua, Real McCoy 3 yr white from Barbados, or the one I chose this time, El Dorado 3yr white from Guyana. All of these are wonderful for their own reasons but the El Dorado stands out for body and flavor while maintaining bright dried fruit notes. 

Which pairs well with our next ingredient, Apricot Brandy. Apricot brandy and apricot liqueur are used interchangeably in most cases though, there is a slight difference. Apricot brandy obviously utilizes a french brandy base, while the liqueur uses a neutral spirit. I’ve done a slightly disturbing amount of research on figuring out the best option here. After racking my spirit going back and forth and searching the availability of each at my local stores and reconciling the nuances of each I finally referenced Jeff Berry’s book Remixed wherein the recipe index under apricot brandy he states Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot as the hands down best. Luckily, my local shop carries that and so there we have it. Numerous sources also claim Marie Brizard Apry as the industry standard so I believe either one of those will work beautifully. 

The next ingredient is even more of a pain in the ass than deciphering the abstract flavors of rums we can’t get and dumping an hour of research into solving the virtues of brandy vs liqueur. This trouble doesn’t stem from locating the ingredient, but preparing it. I’m talking about my nemesis, fresh pineapple juice. In most cases even the purists will agree that the little cans of Dole 100% unsweetened pineapple juice are just fine. However, Jeff Berry explicitly states regarding the Hotel Nacional that it will ruin the drink. Therefore, we must endeavor forthwith on this unforgiving journey that is rendering fresh pineapple juice. Look, maybe you guys have a trick or a fancy processor that makes this task easy, but every one of my attempts has left me cursing the Tropiki gods and desecrating a whole pineapple for maybe 2 drinks worth of juice. Lo!, this unfruitful bounty! How this golden nectar of fertility has evaded me! The method I’m trying this time is to simply chop the flesh into chunks then muddle it through a colander. There’s no one I trust in this genre more than Jeff Berry, but damn, I hope you’re right, brotha. 

Lastly we’ll need some fresh lime juice. Considerably easier to garner, yet no less imperative to the outcome. Some modern renditions call for simple syrup but it’s not in the original. 

I’m going to try the recipe with each of the three rums. Also, a lot of modern recipes call for 1 ½ oz rum while the original only uses 1 oz. Once I figure out which rum is the best I’ll try to increase the rum to see how it changes. 

First up is Havana Club Añejo Blanco, a traditional clear Spanish Style rum from Puerto Rico:

Okay, the initial sip is soft and flat. There’s no heavy rum flavor and there is a tepid apricot/pineapple overtone that’s not unpleasant. For only having a ¼ oz liqueur it is definitely the star here. Actually, less of a star and more of the supporting character that’s always trying too hard to steal the scene. 

Next up, El Dorado 3 Yr White Demerara rum from Guyana:

This version fills out a little more, maybe. But maintains the soft, flat texture. Which is nice, but there’s something missing. I feel the small amount of rum is making the liqueur do too much of the heavy lifting. Also, with only ¼ oz lime juice I feel there’s something to be desired. 

Finally, Planteray 3 Star. A blend of rums from Barbados, Jamaica, and Trinidad: 

Okay. Finally I can taste some rum. However, this still isn’t blowing me away. I literally am writing this as I’m sipping all three drinks and none of them are living up to the hype of the Mafia in Havana or disputes over origin by classic tropical era bartenders and there’s definitely nothing revolutionary about this. I love the softness in the texture. It’s so unique in a genre replete with feverishly bold flavors. It’s just too bitter without any sugar or balanced lime. Could be that a silky texture is exactly what the creator was going for but, in an era when they loved everything super sweet, I feel like this is lacking. Perhaps the creator was perpetuating that long standing tradition that we epicureans have of taking all the flavor out of something and calling it “nuanced” for a “refined palate”. All in all a bum showing for Woelke, if he did in fact invent this drink, since he was known as “one million drink Woelke”, for the number of daiquiris he’s said to have served up. I reckon Constantino would take umbrage with that. In any case, this drink is not very “woke”.

Here’s Eddie Woelke’s original recipe:

1 oz Light Cuban Rum

¼ oz Apricot Brandy

1 oz Fresh Pineapple Juice

¼ oz Fresh Lime Juice

Shake with ice and strain into a coup, Nick & Nora, or cocktail glass. 

Here’s my last attempt. I’m going to try this as a true daiquiri with the apricot liqueur added split with simple syrup the way the master, Constanino, used Maraschino Liqueur in his famous daiquiris. I also increased the lime juice to try and balance it out.

1 ½ oz Planteray 3 Star Rum

½ oz Lime Juice

1 oz Fresh Pineapple Juice

¼ oz Simple Syrup

¼ oz Apricot Brandy

Shake everything with ice and strain into a coup, cocktail glass, or Nick & Nora. 

Result? I would drink this all day. It hasn’t lost its softness, but added the balance of  fruity-bitter-sweet-rummy tropical fervor that we seek in a classy old Caribbean cocktail. Apricot covers the tongue with rich dried fruit while the fresh juices keep us grounded in the islands all together kept true by the body of aged rum. Like all the the other flavors are spiralling in the ether and it’s the rum shouting, “Hold! Hoooooold steady!” Like a pirate ship undulating with a choppy sea on its way into Havana Harbor. 

I’m not dismissing the idea that it could be that our modern palate has changed, and very likely our ingredients have changed. That being said; balanced, tropical, and prestigious is how I would describe this Hotel Nacional Special. In fact, I just did. And by jove, I’d do it again!  

Why do things like pirates and mobsters appeal to us so much? I think it’s the same reason we try getting back with ex’s, because we only remember the good parts. Our minds could compartmentalize how cool it would be to sail the warm Caribbean imbibing in each island’s rum and trying out a different bed in every port, from the reality of violence and thievery. Same with mobsters. While flashy suits and tables in the back make overtures towards my blue collar bank account the bloom is off the rose when you’re spending decades in jail. 

Back in the day there was a saying in New York Italian neighborhoods, “Yeah, those are bad guys. But, they’re our bad guys.” And I can understand that mentality. Pirates took to the sea in protest of a social system that failed them. The Mafia began in Sicily as communities forming secret societies in retaliation towards corrupt government. There are hints of nobility amid the dysfunction. Again, like those old relationships. 

I am against violence in almost any situation. So, take that out of the equation then look at the Mafia in Havana. Everybody eats. Everyone was making money and the people spending money there wanted to. Gambling, drinking, opulent rooms at the Hotel Nacional with ladies of the night and back to work on Monday. No harm, no foul. But, it was corrupt, and that had to be stopped! So, the Cuban people, like so many peoples throughout history, traded a corruption of freedom and prosperity for a corruption of tyranny and impoverishment. Maybe, if there’s always going to be bad guys, it’s better for them to be our bad guys.  

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this has been Pod Tiki. 

Sources: Potions of the Caribbean and Remixed by Jeff Berry, liquor.com, imbibe.com, wikipedia, havana60.com, drunkardsalmanac.com, gotrum.com, cfr.org, Google AI.

Pod Tiki: Mint Julep

The din of the crowd waved by commensurate with the rumbling thuds of horseshoes hitting grassy earth. Dirt and clippings made a dusty wake behind the large speeding beasts. Simultaneously, so distinguished and yet, so barbaric. 

She wore a wide floppy hat garnished with flowers and ribbons, white wayfarer sunglasses, a fitted curvy dress down to white pumps. Her blonde curls glistened like white gold in the sun. The grass was so green. I remember that. Always remember the environment. 

“This is all so fake”, she says. 

“It’s fun”, he replied. “Just a theme party for fun.”

“Who parties like this during the day? It’s ridiculous. No one does this where I’m from.” She bellowed. 

“Well, you’re not in Kansas anymore, toots.” 

“You’ll only get away with that once”, she sassed back.

She spoke to a man in teal trousers, a pink polo shirt, seersucker vest, and pork pie hat. I imagine his eyes rolling behind those oversized gold trimmed aviators. 

The air was heavy and the beer was flowing on a spring day at Iroquois Steeplechase in Nashville, Tennessee while I puffed on an aged Dominican cigar in the pressbox. I fixated on this couple for some time in between races when I scribbled notes in a small book of looseleaf while the others utilized their phones or ipads. I still prefer paper. Call me old fashioned. 

Presently, I meandered about the crowd under the tents of the party I was a guest of. There was a professional baseballer, an Englishmen, a spirits impresario, and a treasure hunter. Tycoons, dragoons, and lampoons. And me. There was me. Not belonging amid the beautiful few. There were beauties, too. Long tall broads in short sundresses blithely lying about on plush cushioned sofas under shade umbrellas. The getaway sticks on these dames making curves like the streets of San Francisco like to make a fella take the straight and narrow, if you know what I mean.  

The horses rushed by again. 

Koo-dunk-koo-dunk-koo-dunk-koo-dunk, they ran past alit with small men in khaki pants and chin strapped riding helmets clinging low and holding fast to their respective reins. Irrespective of the onlookers growing vapid as the afternoon sun burned and beer and bourbon spilled out of cheap glassware onto pastel leisure suits. I went and got myself a drink. 

I gotta admit, the ponies were fascinating and the quick bacchanal of revelers, hackles raised as the galloping blew by, only to recede back into demurity, was exhilarating. For a moment I allowed myself to join the proverbial conga line that was this refined miscreance. Next thing I knew there was more booze in my hand and the faces of men and women alike laughed or smiled wide and toothy like the very equines we was watching gallop by. The crowd no longer followed their mercurial dither with each lap, but stayed a constant raucous of ruckus. Bellowing and blathering and joviating. The booze was sweet and earthy but cool and cigar smoke circled the heads of us daylight sinners like fragrant halos. I made the rounds conversing with many people and the air was thick now with heat and dirt and hugs and who knows what else in those bourbon induced disco naps that take place between moments of conviviality at times like these, like those, like thems. 

When present again I said, “ok, doll”, and scooted a tall drink of water off my lap. The party was packing up and I saw them. The couple from earlier. She was crying now. He rubbed her back and periodically clinked glasses and made small talk with various associates. Networking. In my opinion, cast a net here and you’d catch nothing but a cooler full of idols and debauchery. I saw all I needed to see here, but to be honest, I wouldn’t mind seeing it again. So, i gathered myself and prepared for the afterparty. But, not till after I tippled another of those, what were they called? Oh, yeah. Mint Julep. 

Ladies and gentlemen, (ahem), my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki.

As I’ve declared this is going to be a year of classics. And being that we are deep in derby season it’s finally time to hit this staple of the stables. As I write this the Kentucky Derby was last week, Iroquois Steeplechase here in Nashville is this weekend, and Preakness follows next week. The perfect time for the drink featuring a spirit that doesn’t scream “summer” to me, but mix in some mint, sugar, and snow ice, and you’ve got yourself one of the not only most famous drinks in cocktalia, but one of the oldest. 

The julep goes back to a time when cocktails were first being experimented with and began as a style of drink before solidifying into what we know and love. In fact, the style of drink it was was not even of the alcoholic variety. For centuries a julep was medicinal. See, the word julep stems from the Persian terms gol- meaning flower, and ab- meaning water. The word was gulab. As the tonic spread through Arabia it morphed into julab, then julapium in Latin. The modern julep pronunciation is thought to derive from the French subsequently making its way over to the New World in the age of exploration. Otherwise known as colonialism. Don’t worry I’m not about to go on any retro-historical virtue signaling diatribes. All jokes aside I really don’t believe in judging the past through modern lenses. Not to mention, despite the current political climate I rather enjoy living in the New World. 

The use of the term for medicinal purposes goes back to the year 900 when Persian physician Rhazes described an elixir of macerated violets with water and sugar. Theories point to France being the first place flower pedals were replaced with mint leaves. And just to be clear, yes, I said the year 900. Relatively speaking the dust had barely settled on Jesus’ devine flip flops when over in Persia they were mixing up what would eventually become a Easter season cocktail. Talk about providence. 

After centuries of having a medical connotation it was after making its way to America, as David Wondrich so eloquently describes in his book Imbibe!, that the julep became something drank for fun. In 1784 a Briton on holiday in Virginia observed men drinking “juleps made of rum, water, and sugar, but very strong.” Oh, yeah. That’s how we do it in the New World, baby. 

The issue with origin of course arises because this is the exact ingredient list of that early cocktail antecedent known as the sling. Much like having a morning libation back then was referred to as “taking one’s bitters”, early Americans had a knack for making boozy beverages sound innocuous and commonplace. Extrapolation leads me to believe a sling with mint was merely dubbed a julep to normalize debauchery. Like when I tell my wife that Zombie before bed is simply a toddy to help me sleep. 

Early drinkers were not blind to the coy use of medical libations. Juleps with alcohol had been used since the 15th century under the auspices of doctor’s prescription, but by the early 19th century we find the “mint sling” referred to for recreational use. The first written example of the drink as we know it comes from an 1803 book titled Travels in the United States  by a John Davis. Quoting Mr. Davis,  "The first thing he did on getting out of bed was to call for a Julep* and I honestly date my own love of whiskey, from mixing and tasting my young "master's Juleps." He goes on to explain the drink as, "*A dram of spirituous liquor that has mint steeped in it, taken by Virginians of a morning." 

I believe that says it all folks. Nevertheless, by the 1820’s a Julep was a Julep was a Mint Julep.  

As previously mentioned another evolution the julep experienced was its spirit of choice. Like many gilded age cocktails it began with brandy before bourbon came into fashion post civil war. Alongside its kin, the Sazerac, and many other pre-prohibition era cocktails, Juleps were predominantly made with French brandy. Which further upholds the French origin of the name. However, again like many other recipes before the modern age, Holland gin and rum were also common ingredients. I actually think some Appleton 12 or Diplomatico Reserva would make a lovely Julep. Almost like a dark rum Mojito. 

There’s a bunch of reasons bourbon overtook brandy in the latter 19th century including federal grain surplus proliferating the rise of large scale distilleries, prohibitions on imports, and in the case of the south especially - a newfound pride in its native spirit which mirrored a general distaste, both literally and figuratively, towards the tawdry so-called sophisticated Europeans. 

But, don’t get it twisted. While the bourbon Julep is synonymous with the American south, thanks to proximity, it rapidly spread throughout the nascent nation and was quite popular. Furthermore, it was not relegated to rural plantations. The bourbon mint Julep pervaded even the bigger cities finding its way into elite homes of merchants and politicians as well as seeping through the cracks of the seediest taverns. 

We now know the basic recipe but, there’s one more distinct ingredient that makes a Mint Julep. The ice. Though there’s nothing wrong with stuffing a cup with crushed ice the modern traditional method is to use snow ice and pack it full and tight till it domes above the rim like so many snow-cones.  So, when did this weird trend begin?

I couldn’t find an origin for the use of crushed or snow ice but, it stands to reason that as ice houses became a thing in the 1800’s it became a popular addition to cocktails. This we know. I have to imagine that in the south, where Juleps were prevalent and the heaviness of the sun is felt in greater proportion, the simple idea was to cool the drink. According to an article on gobourbon.com in 1908 the Chicago Tribune published an article in which one Samuel Judson explained to the reporter, “Take a silver cup—always a silver cup. Fill it with ice pulverized to the fineness of snow.” 

Which brings us to the final defining characteristic of a Mint Julep - the Julep cup. In the early days silver tin cups would've been the norm. Today brass has become standard for metal cups. And I say cups because the brass or brass coated iron vessels used for a julep are not the handled mugs we think of for a mule. Julep cups are small metal cups a tad bigger than the size a child might drink from at breakfast. This is good as there’s so little liquid that an abundance of ice would dilute the drink too fast and too much. 

My question, when I began research, was how the Mint Julep became associated with the Kentucky Derby? For any listeners not in the U.S. or simply disinterested in betting the ponies, the Kentucky Derby is a prestigious horse race taking place annually on the first Saturday in May in Louisville, Kentucky. 

This has always been interesting to me. Kentucky is the home of bourbon, which has been commandeered by the southern U.S., especially the Julep. When I think of Mint Julep I imagine a fine southern gentleman listlessly swaying in a rocking chair perched on the porch of an Antebellum plantation house. Jasmine on a warm breeze. A dab of sweat blotted by a monogrammed kerchief. Perhaps a white linen suit. An open air carriage wobbles by with young ladies wearing flowers in their hair piled high under lace umbrellas. Pecan pie, sweet tea, and collard greens in bacon fat. A prize stallion can be heard blowing his lips while the heavy sun renders a golden tint to the rural panorama. A portrait of dixie. 

Note: (In my idyllic picture there aren’t any racist connotations though I realize to deny such would be to dishonor the legacy of those who suffered the injustices of our unevolved predecessors. Therefore, please take my imaginative word painting in the spirit with which it’s intended. That is to acknowledge a decorous facet amid the preponderance of ignobility.) 

I digress. What makes this odd to me is that Kentucky is not culturally associated with the “dixieland” south. Technically, it’s above the Mason/Dixon line. Now, before you Kentucky folks bombard me with comments; I have spent time in Kentucky. It’s the only place in the 2000’s you can still smoke a cigarette in a diner over your eggs and toast. So, yes, I know it’s the south. But, the Derby at Churchill Downs is really the only “Dixie” thing about it. 

Truly, I love the derby because it ties into a love of pomp and circumstance like we do in Tiki. It even has its own drinking culture! 

Notwithstanding that short sidebar, how in fact did the Mint Julep become the libation of choice for derby spectators? Well, once again, there isn’t any concrete timeline for its popularity among derby goers. Thus, we have to imagine proximity and culture played a role in simple evolution. As it often does in cocktalia. We do know for sure though that in 1938 the Mint Julep was officially adopted as the drink of the Kentucky Derby.  61 years later in 1999 Woodford Reserve became the official Derby bourbon. As of a 2018 Liquor.com article Mint Juleps at Churchill Downs are mixed up by Charles Joly, the owner of Crafthouse Cocktails

And with that we are at the modern rendition of this voracious vernal vice. Which means, it’s time to make a drink! 

The prominent ingredient in a julep is of course bourbon. Though there aren’t as many variations as our beloved rums, among connoisseurs bourbon is highly sought and debated. I am a whiskey lover. Living in Nashville, where whiskey flows like the murky currents of the Cumberland River, we are quite familiar. Any strip mall liquor store will have a wall dedicated to a multitude of bourbons varying in notes, if ever so slightly to the uninitiated of which I count myself, of pepper, grain, and sweetness. It’s easy for rum aficionados to dismiss bourbon as monoflavoric. Which, yes, is a word I just made up. I’ve come to realize it just takes an advanced palate and leather tongue to appreciate the nuance. But, the similarity comes in that there’s still a separation between sipping and mixing. To each their own, but I’m generally not making a Mai Tai with Hampton Estate and Foursquare. Although, now that I say that I very much want to try it. Woodford Reserve sits pleasantly in the middle. A very nice sipper but not too pricey, at around $40 per bottle. 

Though this is nowhere near my first whiskey rodeo, (which sounds like a country song or a strip club, right? Or a country strip club!), admittedly I am not as familiar with bourbon nuance as I am rum. Nevertheless, I have a decent enough palate to speak intelligibly on the matter and in this regard I attest Woodford Reserve presents a smooth, grainy flavor with notes of toasted oak. The mild sweetness is less that of sugar and more like charred beef. This is a great bourbon that holds a unique place in where it is pleasant enough for the novice bourboneer, yet recognized by passionatos as a righteous contender.

 Next we will need simple syrup, a reduced 1:1 ratio of cane sugar to water. I know I don’t need to say that for the five of you that tune in every episode but, I imagine someone searching out recipes online may come across this podcast with no prior knowledge of cocktalia. Perhaps you’ve never had a drink before! Perhaps you’re a fresh-faced Amish lad out on Rumspringa and this podcast corrupts you into not returning home to your enclave for 20 years as your family mourns you that is until they’re trodding along one day in early May in the ol’ horse & buggy when a Corvette screeches to a halt beside them presently the window rolls down with a waft of smoke and there you are wearing a leather jacket over a vintage Hawaiian shirt sure enough your car full of bombshells barely dressed in garden party attire are passing around a bottle of Woodford Bourbon and they hear it dim under the dither of laughter and provocative coos, that’s right, it’s this very episode of Pod Tiki. 

Or, maybe not. Either way, let’s move on. 

Next we’ll need mint. I suggest getting a bunch of it. If you’ve figured out how to propagate and grown yer own, bravo. I have had no such luck. Therefore, I have to go to expensive ass Whole Foods to get decent mint sprigs that aren’t all flaccid and whimpering. 

The final ingredient is the ice. Now, ice is always an important ingredient, especially in Tiki drinks. But, here it has culturally become part of the drink. Although I have a bone to pick with folks who try to over state its function. Some claim the ice is imperative as it helps the drink change over time. I get that in an Old Fashioned or even a Zombie. But, a Mint Julep is 3 oz of liquid. If you’re holding a Mint Julep long enough for the ice to change the flavor it’s basically an accessory at that point. If that’s the case you better wear a mitten because the tin cup gets extremely cold. I believe my wife’s quote was, “This is the coldest thing I’ve ever held in my entire life”, and she’s from Minnesota. 

Whether you choose to use snow ice, crushed, or pebble ice the dilution factor shouldn’t be any more than you’d get from stirring it in a mixing glass. Sure, you want some water to brush the flavors together and even numb the palate a little to ease that bourbon burn, but the ice is mostly garnish. A frosty adult snowcone to pacify the palpable southern air. 

A later addition was Angostura bitters. Though not traditional they have begun to creep into a lot of classic cocktails as our modern palates adjusted to not liking such sweetness. Some cafe’s in Havana have even started dashing bitters atop their Mojitos. Which seemed foreign to me till I remembered I was actually the foreigner. I tried many different recipes and ways of preparing Mint Julep and I’ve come to like the addition of bitters. 

Initially, the standard recipe of 2 oz bourbon and ½ oz simple was too syrupy sweet. In which case I understand allowing the ice to melt down. When I reduced the simple it was utterly too boozy. It wasn’t until I tried the recipe from Diffordsguide.com, increasing the bourbon slightly and utilizing bitters, that the drink came together for me. This recipe is adjusted slightly due to the fact that Difford’s uses the metric system which doesn’t translate evenly to ounces.

The official Pod Tiki Mint Julep is:

2 ½ oz Woodford Reserve Bourbon

½ oz Simple Syrup

3 Mint Sprigs

3 dashes Angostura Bitters

Crushed or Snow Ice

Place the mint in a tin cup and lightly bruise with a muddler to extract the oils. You’ll know when you start smelling it. Add simple syrup, bourbon, and Angostura bitters then fill the cup half way with ice and stir. Place a straw in the cup and pack full with ice. If using snow ice, pack a nice dome above the rim. 

First sip? Minty sweet. Almost like gum, but only for a moment because then, there it is. That rich, earthy, oaky bourbon makes its presence known saying, “Oh, hello there. How’s it goin’? Take your pants off.” Personally, I never would have thought mint and bourbon, but the cooling herbaceousness helps bring out the malty, grainy notes without subduing the pleasant bite. We already know bourbon, sugar, and bitters play together cordially like opposing mob families leering at each other during a funeral, but the mint and ice are what differentiate this from its cocktail brethren. Think of them as the cousins who aren’t in the life but understand what’s up. 

Overall, I think this is a very nice cocktail that deserves not to be relegated to a particular season or event.  I’m a sucker for tradition so I understand having a certain treat associated with a particular celebration. But, you could eat pumpkin pie in June if you wanted to. Besides, bourbon is not totally foreign to the genre of Tiki. Trader Vic’s Port Light being a wonderful example of bourbon showing up in classic Tiki. Orange, almond, and sugar blend with bourbon nicely in a Kentucky Mai Tai, which I think I just invented. The volume and spirit forwardness of a Mint Julep gives me heavy ‘Ti Punch vibes in the sense that ‘Ti Punch is a small quick drink that could be enjoyed as one’s morning bitters, a midday reprieve, late night party favor, or tropical nightcap. In this way Mint Julep is similar and I think it’s time for a resurgence. Brunch has normalized morning drinking anyway so, why not add the Mint Julep to your southern brunch menu? 

This summer I’ll be heading down for a weekend in Savannah, GA. Now, that’s some dixie. I grew up in two places, New York and Florida. Neither of which are the south. But, when I get to Savannah I will fully embrace my inner fine southern gentleman. I might boss hog out with a white linen suit, sport my seersucker vest and pork pie hat. The possibilities are endless for how I can embarrass my wife and daughter. But, one thing is for sure. I will certainly find a rocking chair on a porch somewhere where I could light up a big cigar and sip a Mint Julep. 

My name is Tony and this has been Pod Tiki. 

Sources: Imbibe! By David Wondrich, Liquor.com, Imbibe.com, diffordsguide.com, foodandwine.com, gobourbon.com, kentuckyderby.com 

Most of all, thank you for listening and Keepi Tiki!

Pod Tiki: Dark 'n Stormy

It’s serendipitous that I waited till today to write this. Last night my wife and I were awakened around 3am by the sounds of tornado sirens followed by warning alerts on our phones. As we gathered the pets, bug out bag, some pillows and blankets, and huddled in our walk-in closet the perilous storm crackled, swooshed, and roared beyond the window. 

When the warning expired the inclemency could still be heard and seen outside. Lightning flashed and a deluge of water rushed over everything in our small urban yard like a mighty baptism. As the sirens ceased and I was content with our safety I drifted back asleep to God’s white noise as if His day’s broadcast had ended. 

Some folks are taken by the awesome grandeur of mountains. Others may find solace in the tranquil swaying of prairie grass. Myself? I have always been enraptured by water. Of course, the majesty of the ocean and all that. But, also, the splat-splat-ering of rain drops hitting puddles, the gentle lapping of wake against a dock, standing in the rain sometimes while other times taking refuge. One of my favorite experiences is to run out of the rain into a car. I feel kind of the same coming into a warm home after being out in the snow. I love watching rain fall into existing water, too. Storms on the beach are breathtaking. 

I never was really frightened by thunder and lightning as a child. It seemed pretty obvious that it would eventually pass like it always did. I recall actually being more concerned with how the heavy clouds made it look dark in the middle of the day. I could handle the angels bowling but not darkness consuming the Earth. 

My mother would tell me the more intense the storm the faster it will pass. I don’t know if there’s any truth to that or if she was just calming my callow anxieties, but as I grew to love and respect storms I hoped they weren’t too intense so they would last a little longer. To this day I go to bed with a little delight when I see a red sky at night. 

Storms have also held a practical regard in my life. As an overworked concrete pump operator in the early 2000’s I loved waking up to rain and the sound of my Nextel chirping with my boss's gruff abrasive voice telling me to stay home. If coffee was already made I would sit on the sofa in the dark and watch Planet Earth on my fancy new 50” projection HDTV. I also recall fondly the memory of us taking shelter under a pavilion wrapped in blankets while a storm raged by shortly after I knelt on a small wooden dock off a lakebed in Minnesota and proposed to my wife. 

Whether it’s trying to outrun a hurricane on a flight to Jamaica, walking out into the vacuum of the eye of a storm, watching rivulets wind down the car window, or huddled in a closet with my wife, a Shorkie, and an old ass cat that won’t stop bellowing, there’s always been a camaraderie between storms and I. Ever since my dad would sit me on his lap in one of those old tin & ribbon folding chairs in the garage with the big door open so we could watch and listen to the rain falling on the gravel drive. 

I know I’ve spoken about my love of storms before, but on a morning such as this one it seems apropos to mention. As cars splash by the open window of my small metro apartment and the remnants of last night’s inclemency trickle blithely off the patio above ours I’m reminded of how much I am umbilically connected to tropical sunshine yet there’s something quite magical outside when it’s Dark ‘n Stormy. 

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki. 

The other reason I chose this drink for this time of year is because I don’t do well in spring and fall. Don’t get me wrong, I love the changing flora. Autumn oranges and reds invoke a sense that the festive season has begun. While the whites, blues, and pinks of spring flowers remind us of how life flourishes from the darkest coldest times. However, there’s an “in between”-ness to those seasons that makes me feel uneasy. This state of flux while Earth attempts to right itself and find homeostasis. 

What’s funny is that I enjoy airports for that same in-betweenness. One could argue my whole life has been cradling the line between culture clashes. My Venn diagram has cross sections of New York Italian-tropical island hopping-fine dining-dive bar-Nashville cowboy-blue collar early riser-artsy fartsy up all night-liberal-Catholic-down with progres but loves tradition weirdness. My wife hates arguing with me because I can always see both sides, or hold two conflicting opinions. That could be the Gemini in me. And perhaps it’s that same celestial denomination that give the heebie-jeebies when something as grandiose as mother nature seems to be unsure of itself. 

Well, the Dark ‘n Stormy cocktail, with it’s partitioned color scheme and  tempestuous namesake, is the perfect example of this in drink form. Dark ‘n Stormy is a highball cocktail constructed such that the rum floats atop a bed of ginger beer like dark clouds forming above an overcast sky. Hence the name. But, there’s some fun history to get to before we do all that. 

The story of the Dark ‘n Stormy has its roots all the way in 1806. I know, right? For a drink that seems relatively new age I was surprised to learn that. See, it started like so many of our other famous spirits brands with the son of an already established liquor merchant. In 1806 James Gosling decided to take his father’s trade out into the great big world. Thus, he loaded Ⱡ10,000 sterling onto a ship called Mercury, another ambiguous element that lends nicely to our theme, and headed out from Gravesend, England presumably on course to the newly established United States of America. But, Mother Nature, or perhaps Poseidon, had other plans. 

The Mercury was becalmed for 91 days at sea. The voyage took so long that James Goslings charter on the ship ran out forcing them to dock at the nearest port of call, a quaint little British Navy hub called Bermuda. It appears James took one look at the pristine coastline of crystalline waters white pink sand, thought about that cold English rain and decided he’d just set up shop right there on the island. 

The shop he opened there in Bermuda must’ve done quite well because that’s where he still was 50 years later in 1860 when he began distilling his own rum. At first this rum was sold straight from the barrel, but when he began bottling he would seal the decanters with black wax. Thus, Gosling’s Black Seal was born.  

Now, ginger has long been a popular staple in the tropics and ginger beer already a popular beverage, Ginger has long been lauded for its stomach settling qualities and mixing it with rum was favorable among Her Majesty’s Navy that populated the island. At times lime would be added for also for medicinal purposes as it had been known to help prevent scurvy since Francis Drake’s men were given a Mojito precursor by the Caribe or Taino Indians in Cuba. So, the origin of blending those ingredients is a product of time. But, the idea of dark and stormy has a lovely little anecdote recalled by Emily Gosling in a video on DiffordsGuide.com where she claims a drunken sailor was cut off and given a glass of ginger beer without rum to settle his stomach, and presumably his countenance, before heading home. Well, this particular gentlemen became so outraged at the idea of being cut off, which doesn’t sound to me like any drunk person would ever do at a bar he says with a wink, that he grabbed a shot from the bar and poured it into his glass of ginger beer where everyone noticed the resemblance it then bore to a storm. 

This effectively creating the first Dark ‘n Stormy cocktail. Of course, the veracity of this story is tenuous at best. However, I like to believe weird shit like that. It makes life more fun. I also believe that a man was flogged to death nailed to a cross and came back to life 3 days later. John Lennon once said, “I’ll believe in anything until it’s proved untrue.” (Paraphrase) 

That iteration of the drink spread across the island but pretty much stayed there until our old frenemy Prohibition reared its ugly puritan oppressive little head. As bibulous American travelers began venturing out from their native shores in search of more liberal haunts they brought their love of the Dark ‘n Stormy back to the states. The issue Gosling’s took umbrage with is that they had invested a  lot of resources into advertising their rum as the only spirit to make the drink. So, when other dark rums, mainly Jamaican, began peddling their own Dark and Stormy recipes Gosling’s sprung into legal action. It took till 1991 but Gosling’s eventually obtained a copyright on the name Dark ‘n Stormy. Which is why if you’re reading this article you’ll notice it’s written the same way every time. Capital D Dark, apostrophe n, Capital S Stormy. 

Alongside its brethren Sazerac, Hand Grenade, and Painkiller, a Dark ‘n Stormy can only be called such if it’s made with the copyrighted ingredient of Gosling’s Black Seal rum. Point of note here, even though Gosling’s does produce its own brand of ginger beer that is not part of the copyright and any brand can be used. 

Now, I have my thoughts on copyrighted drink names. It seems like a money grab and product of rampant capitalism, but as a guy who believes drinks should be made the way the inventor made them I kinda get it. It seems to have worked out for Gosling’s here seeing as how they’re not really known for anything else except capital D Dark, apostrophe n, capital S Stormy. 

We’ve now reached the part of the podcast where I ask you to please turn the record over, drop the needle on side 2, and let’s make a drink! 

We already went over the rum, but Gosling’s is interesting. Bermuda doesn’t get much love as a rum producing nation. When you ask Google AI what rums are produced in Bermuda it only answers Gosling’s, albeit there, there are many more options of Gosling’s. It’s kinda out there all by itself. Sort of how Bermuda is out there in the middle of the Atlantic. Latitudinally speaking it’s barely the tropics, being directly east off the coast of Carolinas. Black Seal itself, the standard we are used to in the U.S. is a malty, molasses forward rum that tastes akin to Jamaican black rum without the funkiness. I also get subdued notes of black strap. 

I once read that Detroit was an unnecessary city. Nestled between Chicago and New York there wasn’t really a need for a big city there. I feel like Gosling’s is the Detroit of rum. Jamaica, Guyana, and Venezuela already make commensurate or better versions of this style. Therefore, I’m thinking Gosling must enjoy a level of brand loyalty. They’ve also been known to be quite litigious regarding their copyright. I suppose if I was only known for one thing I would want to protect it. Which reminds me, make a note to copyright Pod Tiki. (act like writing)

As far as ginger beer I always prefer Reed’s Extra Ginger. Inspired by the traditional Jamaican version, Reed's uses fresh ginger and cane sugar. Other versions I find to be too spicy and the actual Gosling’s brand I find not spicy enough and too flat. If I wouldn’t consume an ingredient by itself I wouldn’t put it in my drink and Reed’s is my go to soda when I’m so inclined. Remember ginger beer is brewed with ginger and is NOT ginger ale, which is ginger flavor added to soda water. 

It seems lime juice was a later addition and technically precludes it from being a “highball”. The Gosling’s own website only suggests a lime wedge garnish, while other reputable sources add the lime juice directly in the mixing process. The way I see it, if the lime garnish is a wheel it’s for display purposes only, but if it’s a wedge it’s meant to give the option of squeezing it into the drink. And when given that option I’m a squeezer. I said it, I meant it, I’m here to represent it. I be squeezin’ all day brah! 

This is where cocktail copyright is weird. One could copyright a name, but not a list of ingredients. So, Gosling’s rum must be used in a capital D Dark, apostrophe n, capital S Stormy, but the rest of the ingredients are willy-nilly. Doesn’t matter which ginger beer you use or if you squeeze lime or not, brah. Over here at Pod Tiki we be squeezin’, so i’m gonna add the lime directly in the drink. 

The Dark ‘n Stormy is:

2 oz Gosling’s Black Seal Rum

½ oz Lime Juice

4 oz Ginger Beer

In a Collins glass pour lime juice and ginger beer, fill with ice, then pour rum over top. Garnish with an additional lime wedge if desired. 

2 caveats. 1 - Of course you have to stir it up so otherwise it’s all ginger beer. And 2 - The official Gosling’s recipe calls for 6 oz of beer. Personally I don’t think that allows for to taste the rum properly. I mean, if this is the only time people drink your product don’t you want them to taste it? That’s why I dropped the amount to 4 oz. It’s not much but allows the rum to shine a bit. Otherwise, it’s exactly what you expect. Heavy on the ginger with a lime tang and the dark molasses rum creates more of a low end bed. 

Like most drinks utilizing soda it does a lot of the heavy lifting that keeps the ingredient list small. Overall this is a very balanced highball with that version of tropical that’s not so much light and fruity, but rich, full flavored, and a bit spicy. 

Now, all this is if you want the classic Dark ‘n Stormy look. If you care more about flavor than the way it looks in the glass? That is, if you make drinks for yourself first, instagram second, my personal favorite version is such - 

In a 10 oz Collins glass add:

½ Lime Juice

2 oz Gosling’s Black Seal Rum

3-5 Cubed Ice (depending on size)

Top off with Reed’s Ginger Beer

This version goes heavier on the rum and lime while allowing the ginger to lay the bass line rather than try to play lead. I dig it and I get more of a rich clover honey sweetness from the Gosling’s rum this way. If you’re using a 10 oz collins glass you won’t need to measure the ginger beer. 

Personally, I find when I am craving this flavor there’s no other drink that compares. Although, at casa de Pod Tiki we enjoy our own version I call Jamaican Me Stormy. It’s a version of the drink using all Jamaican ingredients, the exception being Reed’s ginger beer which is again inspired by Jamaica, where ginger beer is popular, but not made there. As far as the rums? We use Wray N Nephew White Overproof and Myers’s. The two rum combo began because my wife prefers light rum so I mixed Wray in the drink and only just topped a bit with the dark rum. After she told me she could do without the floater also, well, at that point we’re just drinking Wray and Ginger high balls. Which were popular local drinks when I was in Jamaica enjoying the calmest, softest beach I’ve ever visited while hurricane Irma was pummeling Florida 600 miles north. 

The whole time a devastating hurricane hovered over Ft Lauderdale, down in Montego Bay and Ocho Rios, not only could you not tell there was a hurricane a few hundred miles north, but you couldn’t tell it ever stormed there or ever was anything except a tropical paradise. So, the double entendre of Jamaican Me Stormy is it doesn’t look like a storm at all. The other meaning is of course if you have more than a couple Wray n Nephew drinks they get to makin’ you stormy. Sometimes that could mean you get into a huge fight with your wife. Other times it could mean those old sweatpants get to ticklin’ your fancy just right when she leans behind the couch to pick up the remote. Results may vary. 

There’s not much else to say except I’m finishing writing this 3 days after I did the intro and once again it’s an early drippy morning after another round of all night storms and another severe storm warning. This time we all knew how to fit in the closet perfectly like so many jigsaw pieces. This is Nashville spring. It’s tumultuous, mercurial, and also beautiful. Beautiful not only because of the blue and pink flowers, white Dogwood and Magnolia blossoms, and sunshine burning the winter gray away. Also, beautiful on the rainy days that might make us recall a memory tucked away like sitting on your dad’s lap in the garage watching the rain, getting drenched under a pavilion the day your girlfriend became your fiancé, or huddling in a closet till the sirens stop. Because there’s always a light, even when the world outside seems dark and stormy. 

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki.

Sources: imbibe.com, liquor.com, diffordsguide.com, wikipedia.com, classbarmag.com, goslings.com

Keepi Tiki!

Pod Tiki: DRunK puNcH LoVe

I started Pod Tiki before the pandemic. That is to say, it wasn’t some time-to-kill hobby that got out of hand. At the time I was hosting a different Podcast I had created with my friends and neighbors Spencer and Chris. We would sit on one of the patios of our old Nashville bungalow apartments in Berry Hill and drink and talk shit and hang out with random folks we met at the dive bar up the road. An underground billiards bar we called Satan’s Asshole because of the standing water that would run down the peeling walls whenever it rained, the aloof bartenders serving foamy drafts in plastic cups, and the fact that they stayed open after all the other bars on the street closed. But, the beer was cheap, music was loud, and they had a popcorn machine in the corner that served as my dinner many a night whose shimmering memories and exaggerated tales seemed larger than life now like a shadow stretching in the afternoon. 

We had such fun on those patio hangs that we decided we should record them. Between the three of us we knew enough ne’er-do-well artistic types around town to fashion a weekly guest and thus Share Your Buzz was born. A podcast wherein we interviewed local artists, business owners, comedians, burlesque girls, live bands, and any manner of scoundrel that could make some jokes on mic. And we did it while drinking. 

After a few years I began to have different interests. Traveling, cigars, and tropical drinks. I tried to bring some of those onto Share Your Buzz, but it just wasn’t the same if I was the only one into it. It felt instructional and not cohesive. I also loved writing and even though I had been published in some small ways already, and tried my hand at a novel, I knew I needed an avenue to improve. Hemingway and Thompson had journalism and I discovered scripted podcasts. So, I wrote an article that became the very first episode about Mai Tais. It wasn’t accurate of course because not only was the latest info not available yet, but I hadn’t even realized the journey I was embarking on. My friend Kyle, who I've written about before, bounded through my apartment door one day, without knocking which was his custom, and heard me recording what I’d written. He told me it sounded awesome!  

It was meant only to be a side project, a companion to Share Your Buzz. Then… the pandemic hit and the rest is history. 

I have always been into tropical drinks and have a fondness for pub culture which grew into a love for craft cocktails before they were even called that, but when I discovered real Tiki I thought I was bringing something to the world that had long been forgotten. A distant ephemera in the detritus of time. Then I attended a cocktail festival where I heard Jeff Berry speak. I met him after the show and he recommended And A Bottle Of Rum by Wayne Curtis. That book, along with Jeff’s catalog, not only introduced me to a world that has shaped my life ever since, but informed me that, no, I was not pioneering new territory. In fact, there was a whole community of people already living that Tiki life! 

Some of the people I’ve met along the way have been quite gracious. I believe those are the ones who truly believe in the spirit of the Tiki and tropical lifestyle. Others have been very cliquey and exclusive to those who maybe can’t afford to go around the country attending every event. I’m not mad, I get it. Living here in Nashville there is a sense that to make it in music one has to be present to win. However, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting many Tiki bars up and down the east coast which I believe to be more imperative to the genre. From the outside looking in it appears these Tiki-cons, like most conventions, end up being an excuse for playing hotel room bingo. But, again, I don’t know and it’s been my outspoken platform against those who’ve shut me out and towards the denigration of certain rums just because it’s cool to hate on them that’s probably held this show back from being popular. Even though, as far as I can tell, Pod Tiki was the first podcast of its kind using personal anecdotes, in literary form, giving history and recipes about Tiki drinks. 

I know it sounds like I’m talking shit. I promise I’m not. Well, maybe a little. No, the message that I really want to convey is that this is the 5th anniversary of Pod Tiki and I cannot be happier and more proud of the relationships I’ve gotten to form with you along the way. Because it has been a journey. I always said that despite my growing up in Florida and bebopping around the Caribbean I am no tropical sage. I am going on this journey with you as we all have our own stories within this genre. Whether you travel to Tiki bars and events around the country, have been to a few places on vacation, or just like to waste away in Margaritaville in your backyard I want this show to be inclusive and tell OUR story. 

I hope that if you’ve listened to all the episodes you’ve heard me grow and change and I hope I’ve inspired ya’ll to do the same and maybe even tell you something you didn’t know once in a while. Creativity is like taking all the information from the world, running it through your mind’s processor, and spitting out your own version. 

As we’ve learned along the way I’ve tried to amend or rectify my misguided information like the Mai Tai which has taken three episodes to get right. As new information comes out I attempt to update the findings and give fresh opinions as is my nature. Another thing that happens is that as we make the drinks over time I begin to understand more why Donn Beach, Trader Vic, and the other Tiki greats adjusted their recipes over time. A few of those stand out to me and, much like the Marvel Multiverse Saga, I would like to take this episode to get us onto the same timeline. To fix all mistakes and improve upon some past recipes. 

Because ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki! 

The first issue I want to address is Planter’s Punch. I’ve been reeling to amend this recipe for years. You see, when I began Pod Tiki as a young, naive, Tiki initiate, barely combing through the beaches plied before me, my idea was to give the “best” version of any given drink. This seemed like an appropriate approach then because the drinks I knew about and covered early were subjective tropical standards. Your daiquiri, mojito, rum punches, and yes, even the early Mai Tai episode was based on a recipe, great as it may be, that barely aligns with the Trader Vic standard we later discovered.

Now I am of the opinion that these drinks should be made in the fashion of the person who created them. I love some of the flavors I discover when I riff on recipes, but, to be honest, that usually only happens when I’m craving a certain drink but don’t have all the ingredients or when I haven’t restocked the bar in awhile and my wife utters those words that she is most famous for and do let me know the evening has begun, “Sooooo, can you make me a tasty drink?” 

Also, before Pod Tiki I had a great understanding of tropical drinks, having spent so much time in that part of the world, but didn't truly understand the palate and history of traditional Tiki. 

Therefore, the recipe I listed as the best version was the IBA official Planter’s Punch recipe. I realize now that this recipe is a rum punch. Not necessarily Planter’s Punch. Technically one can argue they’re the same thing, but much like author Tom Robbins’ idea that there are no such thing as synonyms, I say, colloquially, we understand the difference, We went over all the history in the original episode but, through the years Planter’s Punch took on the identity of Jamaica. Not only was it famous at the Myrtle Bank Hotel, a hotspot for golden age Hollywood tropical tipplers the likes of Errol Flynn, but Myers’s rum used to offer a specific Planter’s Punch blend. 

With that in mind, and with pages of literature to back me up, I feel a Planter’s Punch should reflect a Jamaican flavor profile. To be fair I’ve had really good “rum punch” in Jamaica mixed up by the man Cool Kenny himself and the IBA recipe is really good, but from here on out that one will be the Pod Tiki official rum punch.

We discussed before how the Planter’s Punch was named for the plantation owners who would offer the cheap rum distillate leftover from processing sugarcane to quell their slaves or, subsequently, used the better rum to mix the now popular punch bowl for their wealthy friends. Since Jamaica was a huge plantation colony, pirate haven, and export hub for England, this ingratiates further the idea that this particular punch should contain flavors native to the island. 

I’ve always maintained that Pod Tiki embodies the soul of what I call Tropiki. That is, the blending of Tropicalia with Tiki and leaning heavily towards old Caribbean. We know Donn Beach based a lot of Tiki drinks off the classic punches of that part of the world as well. He expounded and expanded and tested and prevailed with flavor palates that twist the notions of exotic and even a bit naughty. Thus, it’s remarkable that the Tiki version of Planter’s Punch is not wildly altered but kept in the vein of the people who invented it. 

The recipe I find best utilizes those flavors is the Smuggler’s Cove. Martin Cate stays almost perfectly to the rhyme ingredients with dark Jamaican rum, lime juice, sugar cane syrup, and Angostura bitters. Plus he adds an essential Jamaican flavor and prevalent Tiki ingredient, Allspice dram. That makes an incredible punch. Yet, what I did here was blend my old way of thinking with my new. I took that traditional Jamaican Planter’s Punch and added an ingredient I believe is necessary for rum punch. Grenadine. 

By halving the simple syrup and embellishing with homemade grenadine we add a much needed sweet fruity aspect to the palate. Since grenadine is a dark sweet fruit syrup made by heating 1 part Pomegranate juice with 1 part raw cane sugar, it compliments perfectly the nuance of dark rummy funk and allspice. I think the following recipe holds true to the origins of the drink, where it is based on the rhyme, and also offers a bit of modern day taste proclivity. 

Here it is folks, the official Pod Tiki Planter’s Punch:

2 oz Myers’s Dark Jamaican Rum

1 oz Fresh Lime Juice

½ oz Simple Syrup

½ oz Grenadine

¼ oz Allspice Dram

2 dashes Angostura Bitters

1 cup Crushed Ice

Blend or shake and open pour into a collins, double rocks, or Tiki mug. I prefer it mixed in my Hamilton, which mixes without actually crushing the ice. However, shaking or flash blending is perfectly acceptable. 

The first sip is fruity and rummy with West Indies spices and is basically everything you expect from a Planter’s Punch ordered in the Caribbean or your local Tiki bar. I came up with this recipe for batches. I’ve treated it up to accommodate numerous Halloween or Fall parties and even mixed up a tub for my daughter’s wedding where it was the first drink to be depleted. The only trick to adjusting it to large batches is to add a little extra simple. Especially if you cheat by using jarred lime juice. 

Obviously, you can experiment with different rums or combinations of such. Different juices, flavors of syrups and the like, But then, is it really a Planter’s or just a rum punch?

This leads us to our next addendum - syrups. I realise that I often offer my take on what should be used more times than not lauding the virtues of homemade, but only offer those recipes in the episode. I find that whenever a concoction requires a unique Tiki syrup I have to consult my tomes to remember how to make it. To save you the trouble I have added a Syrups & Such section to the Recipe Index at PodTiki.com. 

I’m not going to go into every syrup here but let’s hit some of the basics.  

The basic of basics is simple syrup. Nevermind what you’ve heard or read, this is a one to one sugar to water mixture. That’s the way it’s been historically made and that’s the way it should be. Any heathen that claims it’s 2 parts sugar to 1 part water is actually making rock candy syrup. That’s a thing, but it’s rarely used and if it is used in regular mixing your not making drinks you’re making candy. Over sweetening your drink will play havoc with the delicate balance of these masterpieces. 

I use raw cane sugar for 2 reasons. First, I believe it’s more authentic. Before Tiki syrups cocktails like the Old Fashioned added raw sugar and a few dashes of water in the glass and tropicals like Constantino’s Floridita Daiquiri used raw sugar added directly into the blended ice. Back then, especially in the Caribbean, this would have been pure cane sugar. It has a deeper richer flavor than contemporary white granulated sugar. The other reason is today’s granulated white sugar contains additives. It’s not naturally pure white like that. 

Demerara syrup is made by using Demerara sugar instead of raw cane. It’s hard to find and pricey but in its place we could use Turbinado sugar as it mimics Demerara by being even more deep and rich. Raw Cane and Turbinado sugar can both be found in the baking isle of most grocery stores. If not, check you local Latino or Asian market. 

Once you have your ingredients combine in a saucepan, bring to a boil, and let simmer for a minute or so. A lot of recipes, including those of respected bartenders and authors, will suggest just heating the mixture or bringing to a boil then removing from heat, but in order to make a syrup some of that water has to evaporate. 

Other common syrups we should all know how to make are passion fruit, cinnamon, and vanilla syrups. All available in the recipe index at PodTiki.com.

Real quick regarding the Hurricane. We recently discussed Fassionola syrup in the Cobra’s Fang episode. Now, the Hurricane as we know it is made with passion fruit syrup but it’s often cited that Donn Beach may have made his initial version using Fassionola, a fruit punch concentrate. If you go to New Orleans today you’ll get a Hurricane that tastes like a tart fruity limeade with a reddish hue that resembles quite closely, Fassionola. Fassionola went extinct for some decades until recently so the switch to passion fruit made sense. But, now that it’s available I wonder if a Hurricane could actually be made with either Passion Fruit or Fassionola syrups? The latter might be closer to how it was originally made. This is corroborated by the fact that Fassionola came from New Orleans where the Hurricane was invented. I’m not changing the official Pod Tiki recipe, but I think it’s now acceptable to be mixed both ways. Both are quite good and mutually exclusive in profile. 

As far as riffing and premixed blends. I say drink what you like. Experimenting is cool and can render some new and exciting flavors! Especially with all rum from different regions has to offer. However, my personal stance is that you are then creating new drinks and not making the classic by name. That is, unless the pre-bottled mix is blended specifically for that cocktail. Such is the case with the Merchant’s Reserve by Denizen Rum, and the collaborations between Beachbum Berry and Ed Hamilton on the Zombie and Navy Grog blended rums released by Hamilton. As we learned in the last Mai Tai episode it’s now accepted that when the Wray & Nephew 17 yr rum, used by Trader Vic when creating the Mai Tai, ran out and he switched to a blend of Jamaican and Martinique rums, the Martinican rum in question was not the agricole we know today, but a standard molasses rum. Revisit that last Mai Tai episode for the full deep dive. 

What Denizen did, in collaboration with Martin Cate, was create the Merchant’s Reserve using a blend of Plummer Pot still Jamaican rum and Rhum Grande Arome from Martinique. The blending takes place in the Netherlands, which adds a Colonial Caribbean element, and then is aged for 8yrs in Bourbon barrels. The result is meant to historically approximate the first blend Trader Vic would have used post Wray & Nephew. I can attest that it makes a wonderful drink. My over all favorite Mai Tai of all time. And I’ve been to Latitude 29 and had a Mai Tai sitting next to Jeff Berry who makes my now 2nd favorite Mai Tai of all time. 

One of the many things Jeff does better than anyone though, is the Zombie. I mean, he’s the one that cracked Don the Beachcomber’s original code and brought the Zombie, umm… back to life? So, it stands to reason that his likeness would adorn the bottle of Hamilton Zombie Blend rum. The idea of blends for specific cocktails goes back to the aforementioned Myers’s Planter’s Punch bottle and if there’s anyone we should trust to offer a Zombie blend it’s Jeff and Ed. Importing and blending superb rums from around the world is kinda Ed’s thing and no one knows more about Zombies than Jeff. The drink that is. Although he does live in New Orleans so he’s probably had a few Zombiefied tourists wander in off Bourbon Street. 

This is an exceptional rum even on its own and in a Zombie it hits all the corners of the profile you’d expect. The simplified recipe on the bottle makes a good drink, but I suggest using the Zombie blend in Donn’s original recipe. My only caveat is that I still add a little overproof Demerara, as the blend lacks some of the punch of the original combination of dark Jamaican, Puerto Rican, and overproof Demerara rums. To make the recipe on the bottle more like the original just reduce cinnamon syrup by ¼ oz and add a ¼ oz of Demerara rum. 

My trust and admiration for Jeff and Ed notwithstanding, personally, I am not such a huge fan of the Navy Grog blend. It’s a fine blend, don’t get me wrong, but it lacks the Demerara earthiness that adds dynamics to a Navy Grog. If you’ve had it, or any of these, I’d love to hear your thoughts! Message me on Instagram at @pod_tiki.  I would be really interested in seeing what those two crazy kids and any other of our rum passionado contemporaries come up with for other drink blends. 

Next, OK this is not an update on anything, but as I peruse the podcast catalog I would like to urge anyone who hasn’t listened to or read the Sazerac episode to go back and do so. Not only am I really proud of that one, but it offers a lot of my findings on the history of the cocktail as we know it. I feel equally passionate about the Margarita episode. 

Then I come to the episode I released In Memoriam for Jimmy Buffett. I know he’s only Tiki adjacent, but he has lots of ties to the genre. And if we think of how Donn Beach created a genre, well, then, so did Buffett. A physical place that reflects a state of mind. In fact there is a link there as well. Donn is from New Orleans and Jimmy began his musical career there before Nashville or Key West. Besides the personal memories I have indelibly linked with listening and watching JImmy Buffett with my dad, my wife, and close friends, he is a shining example of a creative life well lived. As a musician and a writer I look up to him. As a business man I admire him. As a liver of life I aspire to him. Plus, the margarita is my favorite cocktail. 

You might wonder why a Tiki podcast might also lean heavily into non-tiki tropicals, prohibition era drinks, and holiday staples. Well, the simple answer is that Tiki is derived from all of Donn’s influences and he was in fact a child of that era. He opened the doors at Don The Beachcomber the day after prohibition was repealed. In the same way it’s impossible to love modern rock without Elvis, The Beatles, or Roy Orbison, you shouldn’t admire pop-country without recognizing Hank Williams, Roy Acuff, or Johnny Cash, and you don’t really know hip-hop if you’ve never heard Grandmaster Flash, Big Daddy Kane, or Doug E. Fresh, then you wouldn’t have Donn Beach without Jerry Thomas. If you’ve listened to every episode of Pod Tiki, first of all, Thank You!, then you know that the stories are so inextricably linked that there’s no way to tell the story of Tiki and the Tropical cocktails they’re based on, without including the oddball cast of characters and events that surround the genre of cocktailia as a whole. From Colonialism to Americana to Tiki there is a throughline that defines and shapes the environment and flavors we have come to love and experience in this our love of Tiki. 

Therefore this is not simply a recap and organizing of information regarding Tiki and rums and our enjoyment of such, but a reconciling with those that I may not have seen eye to eye with along the way so that we can coalesce from different parts along the Tiki spectrum in celebration of this idea started by a man who took in as much of the world that he could and regurgitated it through his own lens to offer it up so that we may experience a small taste of his life. 

Tiki isn’t just exotic drinks, locales, and decorations. It’s not just parties and wasting away in whereverville. It’s not the Caribbean or South Pacific. It’s not even straw hats and rum and piracy. Tiki is shared experience. First, Donn shared his with us and now we get to share it with each other and maybe with someone new. Someone who needs to be included in this freaky, fun, kitschy, sexy, diasporic, escapism dream where we only occasionally wake up to visit normalcy. 

Because what would all of this matter without people to share it with? That’s why I started Pod Tiki and that’s why we’re gonna keep doin’ this for damn thing for hopefully another 5 yrs. 

Keepi Tiki out there!  

Oh, wait! Were you wondering why this episode was called Drunk Punch Love? Well, it’s because that is the name of a new original Pod Tiki cocktail I created by accident during one of those times I had to throw something together from what I had. 

See, I had a hankering for some Suffering Bastards a few weeks back which meant I needed lime cordial. I make my own by boiling 1 cup of cane sugar with ½ cup each water and fresh lime juice then steeping the lime peels in it for 1 hour. Now, I love Suffering Bastards but gin has a certain effect on me. That is, it gets me friggin’ hammered. So, I can only have so much. Plus,  I had run out of the Cognac. I noticed I had some leftover Fassionola I needed to use up before it started losing its flavor so I figured I’d just throw a rum punch together. But, of course, I had used all the limes for my cordial. About to capitulate and resign myself to an early night, my attention turned to the open can of Reed’s Ginger Beer on the counter beside a half used can of pineapple juice I was using for my wife’s drink. 

Some folks fool themselves into the illusion that they’re better at certain things when drinking. We’ve all had that asshole friend who claims to be the best drunk driver. I wonder if that person plans to use that in court when sitting across from a crying parent. But, I digress, I only say that to say this - my superpower when drinking is making drinks. I’m not a trained bartender but there’s enough recipes floating around my head that it becomes like a mathematical equation. When dead sober I have to have the recipe pulled up on my phone or the book propped against the sink so I can constantly reference, but for some reason when I’m already buzzed I can recall every ingredient, proportion, and run flavor experiments in my head like Tiki rainman.

Many times, okay, most times, these immaculate concoctions dissolve into obscurity as I drift off to sleep never remembered clear enough to make it into posterity. Occasionally, though, one is so good I have to hurry up and write it down hoping I remember everything exactly. 

Drunk Punch Love was begotten of necessity and pleasantly holds up to the ultimate test - is it as good as I remember when I try it again the next day. It is. Ladies and gentlemen I give you the quixotic bastard punch that is Drunk Punch Love:

1 ½ oz Myers’s Dark Jamaican Rum

¼ oz Lime Cordial

¼ oz Pineapple Juice

1 oz Fassionola 

1 oz Ginger Beer

Stir with ice and strain in to a 10oz Collins glass filled with cubed ice. 

Top off with soda water. 

I know, it’s weird. Especially with two different carbonated ingredients. But, it works. So, there you have it folks! Thanks for listening and we got a few big episodes coming up so please subscribe to Pod Tiki on your favorite app and let’s get to summer 2025! 

Sources: denizenrum.com 

Pod Tiki: Saturn

I was standing on Cocoa Beach looking out towards the vast expanse of sea. The beach there is flat and wide. Spanning the view it was easy to imagine in relative space the pier just out of view to the north and the long brown-gray sand stretching all the way to Melbourne to the south. Then, further still to South Beach and the Everglades all the way across the 7-mile bridge that mirrors Flagler’s railroad to the southernmost tip in Cayo Hueso, otherwise known as Key West. What wasn’t so easy to imagine was what was ahead of my shortsighted visage. Out past the breakers, out past where the cruise ships departing from Cape Canaveral looked like bath toys on the horizon. 

Southwest you’d hit the Bahamas and eventually Cuba. But, directly ahead, if the winds blew you off course you might wind up in Bermuda, otherwise, it’s nothing but open ocean till Africa where you’d make landfall in the Western Sahara or Morocco. That moment was over a decade ago when I began traversing the tropics attempting to follow in the well worn paths of the poets, pirates, and problems on which I based my foundation, and hoped to reconnect with my Floridian upbringing along the way. It was a time of reflection and growth. A personal renaissance I’ve spoken of many times. 

Whenever I’m on a beach I try to do the same thing and figure out my place in the world. But, despite the tide slowly sinking me into the sand, my feet are on solid ground. Imagine you're on top of a building in New York City. A rooftop bar or whatever. The view is still breathtaking, enrapturing, but, if you have an aversion to heights like I do, a bit scary. You can see for miles a perspective just a few centuries ago reserved for the birds and the gods. The air is still and quiet like a forest under a blanket of snow or the atmosphere in the eye of a hurricane. 

Think of how the Earth looks as you ascend away from it on a plane. The higher you go, the farther away from everything you know down there you get the more disconnected it feels. As if now you’re in a separate place. A place where things down there don’t matter. Cut off, helpless, free. Now imagine you break from the shackles of gravity and make it all the way into space. 

At the time of my writing this there remain two American astronauts who have been marooned on the space station for a full year. Now imagine the smell of two humans who haven’t bathed in a year. Ok, stop imagining that. It’s gross. But, seriously. If staring out from a beach, atop a building, or from a plane makes you feel small and alone, imagine the view of space. Not our little blue rock, but the other way. Staring out into forever. Trying to put yourself in perspective of the universe. Where you are in relation to eternity. Staring into forever and being out there in it. A part of everything and nothing. 

I suppose we do a version of that everytime we look to the night sky. The most amazing star gazing I ever experienced was in Hawaii, never before had I seen color in the sky and more stars than space between it seemed. Yet, just this past New Year’s Eve I was standing outside in Florida staring at the Pleiades through the plume of a Queen Palm tree in my parents backyard enraptured by the thought of a sailor navigating by those same stars centuries ago, but not that relatively far from where I was standing. Regardless of religion, or science, which I believe are one in the same, our place in space-time is a miracle. And even when we think we can explain a miracle that doesn’t make it any less miraculous. 

There are millions and billions of stars out there, all being circled by planets that could be just like our little blue dot. But in our tiny “solar system”, if you will, there is but one planet that exemplifies space and technology and the future of mankind in a single image. The Jetsons’s, EPCOT Center, science books, and postmodern artwork of the mid-twentieth century, they all share a common iconography. Whenever a branding wants to show that they’re in space or the future there’s one planet that’s used, and it’s not ours. It is the rings of fortune. The largeness of intrigue. The very idea of spectacular space. It is the name of this episode’s drink, the Saturn.   

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki.  

Again we walk in the shadows of giants. If not for famed cocktail author, David Wondrich, Tiki historian, Jeff Berry, and legendary Tiki bartender Bob Esmino, we would know nothing about the Saturn or its inventor, the great Popo Galsini. 

Despite having a name like a Sicilian mobster Popo Galsini is actually a Filipino bartender from the early 20th century. Popo’s story is extensive and I can’t believe I never ran across him before because, as you’ll see, he shares Venn diagram space with so many of the people and places we’ve covered hitherto. The preeminent work on Popo Galsini was written by David Wondrich, whom I not only admire as a cocktailian, but also as a writer. Not to mention when I reached out with a question while reading his book, Imbibe!, he responded, which feeds my ego so, of course I like him. Wondrich’s work is so in depth that I believe the best way to tackle this is a good old fashioned timeline. So, grab your space suit and strap in. We’re blasting off! 

Before we leave terra firma, we start in the mountain province of Pangasinan where José Valencia Galsim was born in either 1900 or 1904. If we haven’t discussed it before a lot of Filipinos have Spanish sounding names because when Spain colonized the region a decree was put in place that forced Filipino nationals to adopt Spanish surnames along with religious beliefs and all the trappings that come along with having the privilege of being ruled by the glory of the Empire. 

In 1928 José Galsim arrived in San Francisco via a Japanese liner called ShinyōMaru. It would seem he took up bartending there though he doesn’t surface in documentation again till 1930 in Brooklyn where 28 year old José married 18 year old Lena DeCicco. By January 1939 our now going by Joe Galsim resurfaced around Los Angeles married to a new woman, Ms. Violet Jane Stone, 20 years old. By may of the same year he’s documented once again as marrying Helen Bray listed as 18 years old though she was only 17. It appears he was able to marry twice in five months because he changed his name from Galsim to Galsini. Thus is born, Joe Galsini. The Filipino philanderer with the Italian mobster name. 

Galsini had been honing his chops behind the bar this whole time but it was in 1941 we find him working at the Tropics on the corner of Sunset and Vine. The Tropics was one of those Don The Beachcomber copycats and it’s where Galsini encountered the “tropical” drink. By 1948 he is at the Palm Springs Tennis Club and had apparently made a name for himself amid the bartending scene as evidenced by the fact that he somehow acquired the sobriquet of “Popo”. There are some apocryphal theories floating about the interwebs regarding the origin of that nickname, but they all fall short of corroboration. If the likes of David Wondrich and Jeff Berry can’t un-earth the secret I feel certain in saying no one can. He’s listed as the head bartender at Palm Springs Tennis Club but his real break came a year later in 1949. 

That year the United Kingdom Bartender’s Guild set up a branch in southern California. Among the first 40 members was one J. Popo Galsini. An honor he shared with another of our Tiki totem of fame alums, Mr. Bob Esmino, who we’ve discussed a few times and from who Jeff Berry has deciphered many a recipe. Now, the Guild would hold these bartending competitions and in one in particular Popo finished 3rd and won a $50 dinner at Kelbo’s Hawaiian Barbeque. We’ve mentioned Kelbo’s before because as well as BBQ they specialized in tropical drinks. Thing is, at this point Popo was actually working at Kelbo’s. Some prize. A few years later Thomas Stenger won a gift certificate of $1,000 to the Ambassador Hotel … where he worked. If you’re seeing a pattern here you’re not the only one. Decades later a Guild member would confide in Jeff Berry that the fix was in on these contests. If you need more proof, when Popo won, he was the Guild’s secretary. 

However, that doesn’t diminish Popo’s reputation as even Bob Esmino said that he looked up to Popo during those times. These contests gave us many Popo drinks that went on to become classics such as the Blue Gardenia, Queen’s Choice, and the Saturn. 

Circa 1959 in our timeline now, Popo earns himself a little Donn Beach cred by taking a job at the New Orleans themed La Cuisine in Orange County. The now 30 year bartending veteran must have missed the tropical vibe, or perhaps there weren’t enough barely legal girls for him to marry, because in 1960 he left La Cuisine and made for Long Beach where he took up the stick at Hukilau Polynesian Lounge. 1964 found him at the Palms in Anaheim then Huntington Beach at the Kona Kai by 1966. Suffice to say he made the rounds. This wasn’t uncommon for Tiki bartenders in those days. The reason Tiki proliferated the way it did was due to Don The Beachcomber bartenders being poached by the likes of Trader Vic, Steve Crane, and the many other capitalizing scoundrels of the time. 

It was there and then at the Kona Kai in 1966 that Popo entered another contest with a drink called X-15. X-15 was named after the rocket powered space plane manufactured by North American Aviation. To this point Popo was regularly finishing in the money at all these tournaments but rarely took first. This drink, though? He had a feeling it was a winner. His best yet. Unfortunately, just before he was set to enter the drink in 1967 the Apollo 1 capsule, powered by an X-15, exploded killing the three astronauts aboard. Gus Grissom, Ed White, and Roger Chaffee lost their lives and Popo saw fit not to name his entry after the aircraft that killed them. Not to gloss by such a national tragedy, but for our purposes, Popo decided to rename his drink after the rocket booster that would eventually succeed in lifting Apollo into space. He called it Saturn. 

Popo was 67 years old when he won first place at the annual Guild competition with the Saturn. No word on how old his wife was at the time. 

After this monumental victory Popo naturally bounced around to a few more bars, which included stepping away from tropicals for a spell in fine dining at Orange County’s Ambrosia, before settling at a place called the Saloon. In Laguna Beach no one fancied the craftsmanship of Popo’s day. Furthermore it was 1980 and the art of cocktailing in general had given way to Appletini Sex on the Beach sweet & sour kooladas. The Saloon was a small neighborhood place with 3 tables and no barstools where I’m willing to stake my tenuous reputation once again that most patrons neglected to realize or care much, for that matter, they were sucking down drinks mixed by a legend. 

Popo turned 81 years old in 1981 and celebrated at the Saloon with a happy crowd of regulars that loved him. From all accounts he never felt less than for working there, but rather that he’d done his duty, served the genre with all his heart, became a legend, and was content being surrounded by faithful patrons who enjoyed him even if they couldn’t appreciate all he’d done. It’s recounted in David Wondrich’s wonderful article that at his birthday celebration young female regulars wore tight fitting football jerseys printed with “POPO 1981”. One such lady interviewed at the time is quoted, “He’s always so sweet to me, even when he knows I’ve had too much.” I’m sure he was, darling. 

In 1982 José Valencia “Popo” Galsini wrapped his car around a tree and died instantly. Save a few customers at the Saloon this master of his craft absconded into obscurity for over a decade and so did his coup de gras cocktail, the Saturn. 

Then, sometime in the mid-1990’s Tiki historian Jeff “Beachbum” Berry comes across a glass in a thrift store commemorating the IBA finals in Mallorca, Spain with a recipe printed on the side to a drink he’d never heard of by a bartender with a funny name - J. Popo Galsini. 

The glass only listed the ingredients, not how to prepare the drink. But, when Jeff brought it up to Bob Esmino Bob not only remembered the drink, he remembered how to make it. Berry included the Saturn in his book Remixed and it’s since gone on to have a second life in becoming a classic vintage Tiki drink. In the words of Clark Griswold, Hallelujah, holy shit! 

I don’t know about you guys, but after all that I’m ready to make this damn drink! 

The ingredient list is super simple. Fresh lemon juice. Falernum, which we’ve discussed in detail, is a Barbados liqueur with Caribbean spices added. Orgeat, the French almond syrup used in Mai Tais. If I’m making Mai Tais my favorite orgeat is Lattitude 29 when it’s in stock. Otherwise, BG Reynold’s makes my next favorite. However, if you have some cheap stuff laying around that you don’t like using for Mai Tais, where the orgeat is an integral ingredient, this is the time to use it. When mixing with heavier ingredients that present overbearing flavors the orgeat is not so present so I find it OK to use “over-the-counter” brands. I do the same with another of my favorite's, the Royal Hawaiian, when I don’t want to use up the good orgeat. Then we’ll need passionfruit syrup. BG Reynold’s and Liber & Co. both make good versions but I make my own. Buy some frozen passionfruit and let it thaw to a liquid. Then mix your desired amount with equal parts simple syrup and there you go. 

Lastly, Gin. Yes, this is one of those anomalous gin based Tiki drinks. Let’s take a moment to look at gin in Tiki. There’s a great article by Emma Janzen on imbibe.com wherein Jeff Berry is interviewed on the topic, I urge you to read that, but the gist of it is intuitive. People loved gin. So much so that in England it was an epidemic causing Parliament to actually take action because people were day drinking so much that nothing in London was getting done. People got so drunk it affected the economy. A mildly tempered love for gin carried over the United States. That is until our old enemy Prohibition. 

As gin, brandy, and wine from Europe became scarce people turned to what they could find. The true American Spirit, rum. However, rum was still considered the pauper’s drink at the time. So, when Prohibition ended, drinkers returned to their preferred boozing. 

Rum had one virtue its European counterparts did not. It was cheap. So cheap that, let’s say if someone knew a lot about it and wanted to experiment with mixing different rums together and adding fresh juice and tropical spices, well, that was totally feasible. Problem was, it took awhile for rum to shake its lower class reputation. In order to get butts in barstools Donn Beach and Trader Vic had to offer some drinks with spirits patrons recognized. Combine that with the fact that Joe Scialom was already pairing gin with tropical flavors like lime and ginger in his Suffering Bastard all the way over in Egypt. I’m not sure how much history played a part in the entrepreneur’s thought process but, if we consider how Dutch colonizers brought genever to the Caribbean one could argue that gin has always been part of the tropical cocktail. 

In any case, but particularly the one we’re discussing, I am using Beefeater for this recipe. Whenever it’s not specified I use London Dry gin as it was the most popular by this point in history. Beefeater is the gin I use for mixing with heavier flavors. The botanicals cut through and blend seamlessly with lemon and Falernum. Even the smell of gin is bright, warm, and floral. Personally, it seems more redolent of the tropics than cold gray Victorian England. Perhaps that’s why they like it so much. Escapism is what we deal in, after all. 

I give you the Saturn:

1 ½ oz Gin

½ oz Lemon Juice

½ oz Passion Fruit Syrup

¼ oz Falernum

¼ oz Orgeat

1 cup Crushed Ice

Blend everything on high for at least 20 seconds. You really want to get a good frappe to it. Open pour into a footed Pilsner or Collins glass and garnish with a thin portion of lemon peel wrapped around a cherry to look like the rings of Saturn. 

Wow! This is the first tiki drink in a while that truly tastes different than any other thing on the menu. Gin and lemon keep it light and airy but there’s a distinct nuttiness. It juxtaposes drolly with botanical notes while warm Caribbean spice adds body and a smooth texture along with the frapped ice. There’s a little passion fruit bite in there if I look for it but mostly all these flavors are perfectly balanced into a creamy nutty flowery fruitish blend. It triggers banana vibes, like it’s hitting the same receptors on the palate. It’s hard to describe how there’s a rich nutty cream on top while a sharp fruity botanical sits underneath. They’re actually happening at the same time but my synesthesia puts them vertical for some reason.

Conflicting sensations of flavor, texture, and temperature surely make this drink feel like it’s from a far away planet idolized in the iconography of cold war space race propaganda. It tastes like Mary Tyler Moore-psychedelic guitar riff-Nixon drinking navy grogs at trader Vic’s-Darth Vader-go-go boot-Marvin the martian-blast off0-Tiki madness.   

The simplicity, affordability, and resulting flavor of the Saturn make it a perfect Tiki drink. Nothing is there that doesn’t need to be there. 

Of course, I had to try some of the other suggested ways of preparing a Saturn. Martin Cate in his Tiki tome, Smuggler’s Cove, suggests serving it as a straight up cocktail. That is, strained into a coupe. It’s notably more syrupy and passion fruit forward this way. It loses the nuance and balance and is quite sweet. But, that makes sense because Martin Cate tends to mix all his recipes very sweet. Probably flash blending then straining might fix the issues but, in my humble opinion this is simply not the best version of this drink. 

Flash blending and open pouring into a glass doesn’t blend the drink but leaves some crushed ice floating on top. This makes it much easier to drink through a straw but it’s missing the smooth texture nuance. Therefore I contend the fully blended version is the best. 

Knowing what we know about the telephone game of “official” recipes versus how a bartender actually makes the drink, the recipe printed on the side of a glass being the correct one seems dubious at best. I stake my reputation on the validity of Jeff Berry, which may actually hurt Jeff as, much like thrift store glassware, my reputation isn’t spotless. However, I was incredulous at first that a collectible would be accurate. But any doubt was alleviated when Bob Esmino corroborated the recipe. Makes me wonder how many other vintage cocktails have been, or will be, lost to time simply because no one has asked the right person if they remember how to make them. 

How insignificant is that cocktail, then? The sensation every time a patron walked into their favorite establishment, among friends that made it a second home, and ordered that drink. All the conversations had that got so deep or exciting that the drink seems to disappear before you know it. The bartenders that have mixed so many by now that they can hold a conversation about politics and flirt with a waitress while stirring a drink in one hand and pouring one with the other not caring whether or not that recipe will live on or fade into so many distant recollections. 

And how different are we from those drinks after we’re gone?  Remembered fondly, perhaps, by those close to us. Perhaps, one more generation. Then all the powerful moments that made us who we were. The shared emotions. The silent gestures and screaming passions. The interactions with each other that mean more than any bargain writer tapping away at a small writing desk his wife bought him for Christmas years ago when they first began their journey together in a small bungalow apartment in Nashville when things were raw but sweet and scary and unknown, could ever properly describe. 

Maybe that’s the point. If time is not linear but flowing in all directions then maybe the idea is to experience the explosion of life in this fleeting ephemeral moment we’re given before returning to space dust and falling back into the rhythm of infinity. Maybe even circling in the rings of Saturn. 

Keepi Tiki! 

Sources: DailyBeast.com article Finding Popo: The Search for a Lost Tiki Master Bartender by David Wondrich, Beachbum Berry Remixed by Jeff Berry, imbibe.com How Gin Made Its Way Into Tiki by Emma Janzen, liquor.com, Smuggler’s Cove by Martin Cate.

Pod Tiki: Cobra's Fang

There’s always been something cool to me about vintage. Even before nostalgia became the recent pop-culture buzzword. Before speakeasy revival, Gatsby parties, 80’s and 90’s cover bands, and the craft cocktail movement I was driving a 1966 Impala in high school, watching Bogart movies, quoting Hemingway, and scouring thrift stores for antique, but usable household items. Shout out to my grandma’s aluminum ice tray and red velvet lamp; The only two items I took from her apartment when she passed. It’s ok, she was done with them. 

I would say enjoying vintage is different from nostalgia because I like stuff from before I was even born. And much like most things amid the din and dither in my head my reasons for being enraptured by old stuffs are legion. As a writer I love the idea of an item having a story around it. Or, perhaps, an item being a fly on the wall for or part of a story that I will never know. An intimate regard shared only by those present. Maybe I like that because I’ve had so many of those secret moments myself. Some so secret I don’t even remember them. Only the rum knows, evermore. 

There’s also something simply cool about an object out of time and how much cooler those times were than now. I will pre-warn you about an old man rant coming in 3…2…1 - In the early twentieth century, before fast fashion and text talk, people dressed better and spoke better. If you wanted a new outfit you went to a tailor. If you wanted conversation you went to a public house or wrote a letter. There was innuendo and nuance. Before the internet, for all its wonders, if you wanted information you read a book. When you wanted furniture a craftsman made it and goods were made to last. Food was grown and only available in season. Okay, maybe those days weren’t as cool for people of a certain complexion, but families stayed together and children dressed like cute little street scamps. Notably for our discussion, if you wanted a Caribbean rum someone had to get on a boat and go get it. 

I suppose this admiration of vintage encouraged my love for Tiki. Besides my generation of 80’s and 90’s kids growing older but not up, wistful for He-Man and the Burger King Kid’s Club, there’s another kind of nostalgia for vintage that I’ve noticed when it comes to epicureanism.  In fine dining, cigar lounges, and cocktail bars, there seems to be an air of classic heritage that never goes out of style. Like a tailored suit. Even if you don’t frequent those kinds of places you’ve inevitably noticed the aesthetic seeping into your local spots touting an “elevated” experience. Here in Nashville, long after the speakeasy trend has died out, every place from dive bars and breweries to steakhouses and music venues can be found brandishing some version of 1920’s or 30’s ephemera. Velvet wingback chairs or a wall of French Victorian art. And I believe this appreciation for mature tastes has found its way to our humble, but ostentatious, genre of Tiki. 

A lot of the Tiki bars I’ve visited lately have stopped trying reinvent the lime wheel and returned to a Beachcomber’s/Trader Vic/Luau aesthetic. And, personally, I dig it. I dig it so deep the Easter Island statues better be wearing a codpiece. 

This is all on my mind because I’ve vowed to tackle some of the heritage vintage drinks this year. Some of the procrastination has been fear of endeavoring topics that don’t have clear origins or stories. At other times there’s just not enough info to make a full episode. Which is where my creative writing chops will hopefully be up to the task. 

We’re going to run into this next issue a lot as we tackle some of these heritage Tiki drinks. The scenario where Donn Beach invents something then every Tom, Dick, and Maui alter the name a bit to release a subpar product in attempt to capitalize on whatever wave of popularity is cresting at the time. Admittedly, a few of the copycat drinks are delightful in their own right. A majority were pilfered or reversed engineered by former Beachcomber staff. Although, my favorite is when Trader Vic puts a drink on the menu that he didn’t create and puts zero effort into figuring it out. For example, how his Suffering Bastard is just a Mai Tai with a floater of overproof rum. The fact that he contributed so much to the genre gives him the pass, but it’s his grousy demeanor that makes the blatant disregard amusing. 

This time almost nothing about the drink changes but the name.  Another Don The Beachcomber original full of vim and venom. Today we’re biting into the Cobra’s Fang! 

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki. 

True to Beachcomber style Don created the Cobra’s Fang using a blend of dark Jamaican rum and overproof Demerara rum from Guyana, which pretty much make up the quintessential Tiki blend. As a refresher, Don was a master of blending rums from different regions to evolve tertiary flavors. He not only created Tiki, but he created the “Tiki blend” of flavors everyone after him built off. Unfortunately, that is what’s led to some lesser Tiki drinks all tasting the same. But, done correctly they are very unique in all their own ways. As we know. 

The Cobra’s Fang is one of Donn’s earliest concoctions appearing circa 1937 and sharing menu space alongside such exotic brethren as the Zombie, Shark’s Tooth, and Vicious Virgin. Any history behind this drink relating to Don The Beachcomber is as elusive as a snake in the grass. Which is surprising as it is one of Don’s diaspora of drinks to later be adopted and adapted by some of the greats including Kon Tiki Ports, by our old friend Steve Crane, and the Lanai, where it became the Cobra and Sidewinder’s Fang, respectively. Well, maybe no so respectively in Steve Crane’s case. See our Test Pilot/Jet Pilot episode to learn what a character that guy was. 

I digress, for as popular as this drink seemed to be in the early to mid 1900’s I’m surprised there isn’t a dusty notebook or an aged Filipino bartender unearthed by Jeff Berry who has a story relating to the Cobra’s Fang. But alas, with Donn long gone and first hand accounts fading to time pictures and approximations may be all we ever get of some of these timeless cocktails. And from what we know about Don The Beachcomber I think that’s just the way he would’ve wanted it. 

Even in his own recipe books Donn changes the recipes all the time. Or, they come from second hand accounts wherein a cursory glance will tell you if you are into making these drinks that there’s no way the measurements are correct. Sure, palates and tastes of ingredients culturally change over time, but Donn was such a meticulous craftsman and showman that he would never have served an unbalanced cocktail. A man who goes through the trouble of obfuscating his ingredients behind secret codes only his most trusted bartenders are privy to is not going to serve a glass of Hawaiian punch and call it a Tiki drink. In all the years I’ve been reading about Tiki I’ve never come across one of Donn’s codes being deciphered as Hi-C. 

The recipe calling for rum, Falernum, citrus, bitters, and a dash of Absinthe is pretty standard fare for Donn. The version we’ll be following here is from liquor.com and is similar to one previously released by Jeff Berry. The only difference being Berry seems to have substituted a key ingredient which was unavailable at the time of his research but is now.   

Kon Tiki Ports’ popular version was called the Cobra and came from the notes of Bob Esmino. Bob is in his own right a member of our Tiki totem of fame, I believe we’ve covered his career extensively previously. His is very close to Beachcomber’s Cobra’s Fang recipes but seems to have been streamlined either in an attempt to simplify or because he couldn’t accurately decipher Donn’s blend. 

The Cobra is:

1 oz 151 Demerara Rum

½ oz Lime Juice

½ oz Orange Juice

½ oz Passionfruit Syrup

1 dash Angostura Bitters

6 drops Pernod

4 oz Crushed Ice 

Blend everything for 5 seconds, pour into a 10 oz collins glass, add ice to fill. Initial thoughts? This is a very small drink. Thus, it’s easy to drink it fast. The overproof rum does its job in packing a quick wallop. Flavor wise, it’s a bitter, passion fruit forward, rum punch. It’s good, and it fills the menu space for this flavor profile. The bitterness is actually pleasant and creates a grapefruit or apricot note, even though there’s none of those in there. Which is what I love about Tiki. I get this. It’s light and airy and boozy. I get why this made it onto Kon Tiki Ports menus. It’s not bad, but it’s not Donn Beach.  

The drawback of creating something, as we’ve seen in other Don The Beachcomber drinks, is that someone will come along and make a more popular version. Which is exactly what happened when the Lanai began serving the Sidewinder’s Fang. 

Owner Emerson Murfee opened the Polynesian themed Lanai bar and restaurant San Mateo, California in 1950 beside the Villa Chartier restaurant previously purchased by Murfee. With the addition of the Villa Hotel in 1956 the area became known as Villa Square. The Lanai remained open till 1988. A pretty good run for a Tiki bar, especially making it into the dark times of cocktailia that was the 1980’s. I was but 8 yrs old in 1988, but I can attest that the 90’s weren’t much better. Postcards from the Lanai show a lavish dining hall featuring loads of wicker, kapa’a weave, exotic plants, Tikis, and tropical landscape murals designed as window views. It looks amazing, but what put the Lanai on the proverbial Polynesian panorama is the Sidewinder’s Fang. 

The Sidewinder keeps the integral flavors but streamlines the recipe even more, cutting out bitters and Pernod all together and decreasing the venom by using regular Demerara instead of 151. The Sidewinder’s Fang is:

1 oz Dark Jamaican Rum

1 oz Demerara Rum 

1 ½ oz Lime Juice 

1 ½ oz Orange Juice

1 ½ oz Passion Fruit Syrup

3 oz Club Soda

Shake everything except club soda with cubed ice and open pour into a large snifter. Stir in club soda and top off with more cubed ice. This is how you will find the Fang served nowadays. In the large snifter with a length of orange peel cut to look like a snake head. It’s kind of a pain in the ass to learn and I admittedly haven’t mastered it so please forgive my meager attempts. 

First sip? Tart orange, followed by sour-like blasts of mixed fruit. It’s a thick drink. The slight fizz of soda is a cool trick to “bite” the tongue a little.  Just make sure your soda hasn’t lost carbonation or the drink feels like when orange juice begins to turn and gets fuzzy. You want enough carbonation to give the drink texture but not make it into a soda. A cool visual stimulus is when you pour in the club soda in it fizzes the bright citrine drink up towards the flute of the snifter and looks like a science experiment. The rum is all but undetectable, so this could be deliciously dangerous. A few of these may seem harmless, but you may end up doing a bit of sidewinding yourself. Over all, it’s just ok. I don’t like how syrupy it is, even cut with club soda. It’s a big drink and I see why it utilizes cubed ice rather than crushed. It only has a few defining flavor characteristics and crushed ice dilutes them too quickly, where cubed ice melts slower  keeping the Sidewinder's Fangs sharp.  

You may remember I previously mentioned a forgotten ingredient used in Donn’s original version. It’s really what sets his drink apart from its descendents. Passion fruit syrup has become the standard replacement for Fassionola.  

Let’s talk Fassionola syrup. Ok, what is it? Well, it’s often referred to as a fruit punch concentrate. Passion fruit is the prevalent ingredient but it also features strawberry, lime, raspberry, mango, and pomegranate. It’s said in Tiki circles that Donn Beach invented Fassionola, but that is contested by the fact that there are references to red, green, and gold syrups called Fassionola as far back as 1916. By the time Donn made it famous in the 1930’s he was using a red version which became the only Fassionola. I wonder though, if that gold version was in fact passionfruit syrup. 

In any case it makes sense because Donn is from New Orleans, where a lot of his recipes glean inspiration, and where if you order a Hurricane now you will get a fruit punch drink instead of the passion fruit flavored concoction we know and love. Fassionola has been substituted with passionfruit syrup ever since it went extinct sometime in the late 50’s as evidenced by the 1962 Cobra’s Fang already using passionfruit. It was known among Tiki archivists as “the lost ingredient.” Now, thanks to the uprise in craft Tiki cocktails, Fassionola is being produced once again. At least the best version we can surmise from long forgotten recitations. So, as much as I disliked the Hurricanes in New Orleans, perhaps there’s some deeper history to why they are prepared as they are. Where New Orleans and Donn Beach are concerned there’s always some deeper history. 

Fassionola is said to have been used as a fruit punch concentrate. Having nothing to do with cocktails at all. It’s funny because I always wondered, even as a kid, what fruit punch actually was. The origin of “punch” began in India. The word panj seems to indicate this. So, see, the origins of Tiki really do take inspiration from all over the globe. Panj means five and refers to the ingredients list; spirit, sugar, spice, citrus, and water. A precursor to the Caribbean rhyme one of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, four of weak. The British East India Company brought punch to Europe and on to the West Indies during colonialism. So. all those elementary school birthday parties when we drank fruit punch out of those big cans with two triangle holes punched into the top we were actually enjoying a derivative of Caribbean rum punch. Makes me glad that Tiki drinks come with straws so we all don’t have red stains in the corners of our mouths.

The Fassionola I’m using is from BG Reynold’s. It’s quietly become my go-to brand out of necessity. They use fresh real ingredients and cane sugar rather than corn syrup, so that checks my purist box and they always seem to be available. When my favorite orgeat has been out of stock for years, BG has a great version And when I found a Fassionola syrup made in New Orleans that I figured would be most authentic since that’s it’s purportedly provenance, but the company claimed it was delayed being shipped because of the snow even though I ordered it 5 days prior to the storm… BG had some ready to go. Mostly, they just make really good products that hold up to the scrutiny of Tiki. 

In my experience the fresh syrups are only good for about 8 weeks in the fridge after opening, but the bottles are good for reusing for your homemade syrups. 

And that concludes the informational portion of our podcast. Shall we make a drink? We shall. 

With Fassionola out of the way let’s jump into rums. The Cobra’s Fang calls for a dark Jamaican and an overproof Demerara. I always prefer Myers’s for dark Jamaican rum and since I finally ran out of the big bottle of Plantation OFTD I’ve had for years I think I will try Hamilton 151 Demerara for this drink. I love all of Ed Hamilton’s rums and since the regular Demerara 86 is one of my all time favorite rums for sipping with a cigar I think I’ll give the 151 a go. It doesn’t have as much funk as OFTD, but that smokey Demerara flavor is still there. Now, I’m still steadfast in my aversion to overproof spirits, and I’m sure this bottle will last some time, but you can’t really have a drink called the Cobra’s Fang without a bit of venom! 

We’re going to need Falernum, which we know by now is a rum based liqueur from Barbados flavored with citrus and Caribbean spices. As in Donn’s previous recipes the “Absinthe” in question is actually Herbsaint or Pernod. I prefer Pernod, personally. I believe we covered this in the Dr. Funk episode, but I love Absinthe. In fact, it ties in with my love of vintage writing because Hemingway was such a big fan. I frequent Absinthe bars and it’s my preferred after dinner cordial. Notwithstanding the rich history and lore surrounding the green fairy, I don’t think it tastes any different than its cousin Pernod or their American counterpart, Herbsaint. I hate to break it to you, but the amount of wormwood used to flavor even real Absinthe is marginal and has no psychedelic properties. 

Lastly, we’ll need Angostura bitters and fresh lime and orange juices. After these many years I shouldn’t have to extol the virtues of squeezing your own citrus. So, if you’re still using jarred juices, well, you deserve each other. Hey, I’m bringing back judging people this year and I judge you if you’re too lazy to squeeze a few limes and oranges. And, I expect to be fully judged and called on my bullshit as well. In fact I have over a thousand responses and counting to a comment I made on some video like 4 months ago in which I claimed that jeans are casual attire and sweatpants are only for the gym or lounging at home. Just my opinion as a man who appreciates when people cared how they present in public. Oh, my! Wow! I have gotten more vitriol from that silly comment than I ever got from my worst enemy. I’ve never gotten anywhere close to that response from anything I’ve ever written about Tiki. Maybe I should try to write something controversial about Hawaiian shirts? Or, maybe it’s just because you guys are cool and don’t take life so serious. 

Anyway, the Cobra’s Fang:

1 ½ oz Dark Jamaican Rum

½ oz 151 Demerara Rum

½ oz Falernum

½ oz Fassionola Syrup

½ Lime Juice

½ oz Orange Juice

2 dashes Angostura Bitter

6 drops Pernod

6 oz Crushed Ice


Blend everything for 5 seconds and open pour into a footed pilsner, collins glass, large snifter, or snake themed Tiki mug. According to a picture from a 1940’s Don The Beachcomber’s menu he served his in a curved footed pilsner garnished with mint. I like to incorporate the snake peel even though that came later. 

First sip? Donn, you son of a bitch, you’ve done it again! This drink is layered, complex, full flavored but medium bodied, rummy but balanced, exotic, yet fruity. The bright orange hue glows in the flickering dim light like the energy of Maui has imbued it himself and the flavor is?... Well, this might be my new current favorite. It tastes like an exotic fruit punch, for sure. The Fassionola is in perfect harmony with the fruit juices and doesn’t cut sharply or overpower like passion fruit syrup. Truly, it’s one of those ingredients that you can’t pick out but definitely notice when it’s not there. It adds body and texture to the overall cocktail. After a while there really is a fruit punch flavor that rises to the fore. Maybe I’m hyperbolizing because I love this drink so much, but I was skeptical that Fassionola was going to be noticeably different enough from passion fruit. Now, I am a believer. Fassionola is not an overhyped fruit punch syrup. It really does change the way these flavors interact with each other in comparison to the previous derivative drinks. 

Even the overproof Demerara rum doesn’t bother me here, instead, its earthiness combined with the burnt molasses of Myers’s adds a smoky note. There’s a hint of peppery anise and sweet dark sugar undertones. All of this within a warm hug of fruity tropicalia.   

Make sure to top off with plenty of crushed or pebbled ice. Like most Tiki drinks the ice is an ingredient that affects the flavor via dilution. Before ice they would literally add water to cocktails and even a lot of spirits aficionados laud the addition of a few drops into a fine whiskey. 

I have to take a moment and laugh at myself for going so in depth on flavor profiles. It’s all with a grain of Kosher salt on a tongue firmly cemented in cheek. Whatever epicurean endeavors we embark upon, whether it be cocktails, spirits, coffee, cigars, or fine dining, it’s all so subjective and there’s no real way to quantify what is better or worse on the sliding scale of opinion. Sometimes good cocktails are like a magic trick. Knowing how it’s done ruins the illusion. And isn’t that really what Tiki is, an illusion.  

I think I finally got a passable snake garnish down even though my wife said it looked like a schlong hanging over the glass. She’s not wrong. I am no master of the peeler. My only advice is to start wide, try to then lower one side of the peeler, creating one side of the snakes head in essence, then continue to spiral cut a long body. I ruined a few oranges before I got a decent snake/schlong garnish. 

Irrespective of phallic garnishes all I can say is that after all the copycats, and snake in the grass ex-bartenders, Don the Beachcomber’s original version of the drink he invented is still far and above the finest. 

From time to time we all experience life’s fangs and we pick our poison to numb the pain. In this scenario the venom is the antidote. 

,Sources: Sippin’ Safari by Jeff Berry, Remixed by Jeff Berry, liquor.com, Wikipedia, tikicentral.com

Most of all thank you for listening and Keepi Tiki!    





Pod Tiki: Coquito

I’ve been holding out on covering this drink since the inception of this show. It was a holiday staple for many years before I began making homemade eggnog. The reason I haven’t covered this obvious tropical holiday concoction is because it’s hard. Yep, I was too scared to embark on such a lofty endeavor. It’s why we haven’t done an episode on the Martini, and why the Mai Tai has taken three episodes to get right and frankly I’m still not happy that I’ve captured its impact correctly. How can I possibly create a succinct, but comprehensive, compendium of a drink with such history, such as the Martini, or in this case, such civic nuance. 

I think the best way for me to attempt such a topic is to first admit this is going to be an ongoing discussion, not an end-all be-all. Like Planter’s Punch, which we really need to revisit soon, the recipe is merely a suggestion of flavor profile and it’s going to take more episodes over the years to expound on the basics. 

But, this year is going to see a stop to my cocktail anxieties. No longer will I be intimidated by such daunting undertakings. It’s high time we hit some of the giants across the board from Tiki, tropical, and classic cocktail genres. 

We’re staying in my favorite place for this episode, the Caribbean. I haven’t visited this island yet and part of me thinks I should’ve waited till I’ve been there so I can incorporate some personal anecdotes. But, alas, ‘tis the season for this drink and I do have a sentimentality for Puerto Rican people having grown up with so many in Orlando, Florida. Therefore, I feel like it’s way past due for us to talk about Coquito

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki. 

If you ask five abuelas how to make Coquito you’ll get five different recipes. Even when the ingredients are similar the amounts and/or accompanying spices will reflect family heritage, and that’s if you can even get them to release the recipe. Oh, any Puerto Rican family will usually be more than happy to share or gift a bottle of their proprietary Coquito, but divulge the recipe? Inquire that and you’ll be met with all the deference of Uncle Vinny being asked how he got such a good deal on so many TV’s. But, there is a through line in every Coquito recipe - Puerto Rican Rum.  

I’ve seen a few recipe websites say you can leave the rum out so the whole family can enjoy it. That’s balderdash. Coquito has been referred to as Puerto Rican eggnog, but where eggnog can be enjoyed without booze, actually let me rephrase that, it can be consumed without booze though it’s not very enjoyable, Coquito is not Coquito without Puerto Rican rum. 

The comparison to eggnog is one of the baffling things that vexed me about tackling this subject. Coquito is a milky, creamy, spiced and spiked holiday beverage. But, that’s where the similarities stop. Because, even though early Coquito may have contained eggs, nowadays professional mixologists and Spanish grandma’s alike use condensed milk and/or coconut cream to achieve the desired viscosity. To be completely honest, the viscosity is not an inherent factor. I’ve had some Coquitos that were heavy and creamy while others light and frothy. There’s an archetype but not a paradigm. Like pizza around the country. I’m partial to New York pizza because it’s the first pizza I ever had. Maybe if I had been born in Chicago I would enjoy eating a loaf of greasy bread topped with overcooked meats. Who’s to say one is decidedly better than the other just because on one the crust is like biting into fresh Italian bread, the sauce actually tastes like sweet tomato, and the mozzarella is browned just so but still stretchy. While the other is a pillow of dough wherein the all the grease just sits there causing the whole layer of cheese and toppings to slide off with the first bite leaving you holding a wet piece of crusty bread. Who’s to say. Certainly not me. 

I searched far and wide for Coquito that still uses egg, and the reason for the switch to canned milk products. The origins of Coquito seem to go back to colonial era nog drinks. Using egg in cocktails used to be commonplace in the days of the colonial tavern. See our previous eggnog episodes for more on that. Eventually when eggnog became a traditional holiday indulgence that’s when it made its way to the Caribbean. Think about how many Caribbean spices have become associated with Christmastime. Nutmeg, allspice, candied tropical fruits, and yes, coconut. Adding coconut to eggnog replicas became custom in Puerto Rico where they coined the name Coquito, meaning “little coconut”. 

The only variant I've seen utilizing egg now is something called Ponche de Coquito, which only uses the yolks. As I haven’t tried it at the time of this initial writing I assume it’s for flavor only because without the whites it’s really not a thickening agent and those recipes also call for condensed milk. Coquito is said to have been invented in the early 20th century, which corroborates its use of condensed milk as it was created in 1853. So, sweetened condensed milk has been around a lot longer than I would’ve guessed. Condensed milk is simply cows milk wherein the water has been removed and sugar added rendering a thick syrup which can be canned and reconstituted later. For this reason it gained popularity during the American Civil War much the same way Spam was a commodity in the Pacific theater of WWII. More on that later. 

Another place where Coquito and eggnog diverge is in the serving. Once again this is not a rule that holds true for all Coquito drinking, but in my experience Coquito is richer and spicier than eggnog. Therefore, where nog is served by the glass, Coquito is often served by the shot or in a small cordial glass. It’s not a shot for shooting, mind you, it’s just a super concentrated sipper that can get lost in overindulgence if you drink too fast. 

You know, I said earlier I wished I had been to Puerto Rico so I could have some personal anecdotes. Verdad, once I go there I’m sure to have stories to tell about the relationship between PR and the U.S., the sights, sounds, and flavors of the island, and a heaping helping of history. But, to say I have zero personal experience with Puerto Rico would be remiss. Having spent the second half of my childhood into some semblance of adulthood in Orlando, Florida, I have had many experiences with the Puerto Rican people who I feel a kinship with. As I am a third generation Italian, I grew up around a lot of kids whose parents were from the island. Though Italians and Cubans are more closely linked culturally, Puerto Ricans are the Latino people I have the most experience with. Much as there’s a stereotype about loud Italians, I recall fondly my neighbor’s mom yelling from the front door, “Juanito! Ven aqui!” 

From a Tiki rum nerd perspective let’s not forget that my favorite rum is Cuban and Puerto Rican rum is the closest direct descendent. Facundo Bacardi is just one example of rum makers that fled Cuba for neighboring islands after Castro. In fact, while in Havana we walked multiple times passed the original Bacardi building which still brandishes the bat gargoyle that adorns every bottle of Bacardi rum. 

Which I guess brings us to the ingredient portion of the show. So, without further ado, let’s make a drink!  

Since part of the appeal of this tropical holiday staple are the variations there’s not going to be comparisons, or a best practices version, of Coquito. Much like Hot Buttered Rum, Eggnog, and Rum Punch, this is going to be an ongoing exploration into nuance and abstraction. I have a recipe I’ve been working on for several years. It started with the baseline recipe you’ll find on Liquor.com or any of the myriad sites claiming to have the “classic” family Coquito recipe. You’ll notice the ingredient list is almost identical. But, in true Coquito fashion I’ve slowly adapted the recipe to my liking. For instance, I go heavy on the coconut, subbing out regular ingredients for coconut versions when possible. 

This is indeed a batched cocktail so the first thing we’re going to need is empty bottles. I suggest using cashed rum bottles and not rinsing them. Let whatever was in there add some flavor to the Coquito. In this case, maybe experiment with other spirits. Of course, you’re not going to get the essence as prevalent as aging in wood barrels, but there will be some vestigial liquid or scent in the bottle that may or may not add to the finished product. 

Much in keeping with the parochial nature of the drink there is no consensus on what type of rum to use as long as it’s Puerto Rican in origin. White rum will of course offer a lighter, fruitier flavor as gold or amber will present a patina of age. But, this is one of the rare times I laud the use of spiced rum. If ever there was a time for spiced rum it’s the holiday season. We often discredit or marginalize spiced rum, but when I’m walking around looking at Christmas lights there’s no better time for a Captain and Coke. Keeping in the nature of Caribbean Latinos Puerto Ricans are a proud people so you won’t find the mixing of other spirits, like brandy or rye, that we find in eggnog. So, what’s the best spiced rum for a rum nerd? 

My advice is not to overthink it. You may be inclined to use a local distillery. Here in Nashville we have Corsair who makes a fine spice rum. Of all the big label brands my favorite is Captain Morgan or Sailor Jerry. But, remember, Coquito has to use Puerto Rican rum. So, this is the time to break out the bottle of Bacardi Spiced Rum you were gifted by that well meaning friend who knows you’re into rum but didn’t know what a snob you are about it. Look, Ron del Barrilito is my favorite Puerto Rican rum, but it'll be wasted amid the overpowering flavors of Coquito. Where a spiced rum, with its vanilla, cinnamon, allspice, and clove lends itself to the already Christmasy mix. 

It’s also the time to break out the coconut rum. This recipe doesn’t utilize any added sugar, like coconut cream, as some recipes do. So, I use coconut rum to add a little more Caribbean flare. Planterey, Coconut Cartel, RumHaven … all fine coconut spirits. But, if you use any of those you’re not making Coquito, you’re making an alcoholic coconut flavored dairy beverage. So, quit being a snob and go get some Bacardi Coconut. (I swear, Bacardi should sponsor this show.) Don Q also makes a coconut rum and is from PR, but it’s harder to find. If you really are a staunch “no name brand” kinda fella, I feel like any coconut rum made in Florida is acceptable because there’s almost as much Puerto Rican culture here as there is in Puerto Rico. I mean that with the utmost respect and I speak from my own experience growing up there. 

(In fact, it’s kinda funny, because I started this article in my apartment in Nashville and I’m finishing it at my family home in Orlando. The last time I did this was for another Puerto Rican invention - the Pina Colada.) 

We’ll need cans of sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk. If you’ve listened for any amount of time you know that despite some earlier leanings to the “best version”, I try to stay as purist as possible regarding my recipes. It seems in this case the use of condensed milk in place of eggs is the most popular, most widely used among Puerto Ricans, and therefore, the most purist way of making this libation. 

This checks out when you look at the timeline. Gail Borden invented condensed milk in 1853 as a safe way for parents to feed infants on long trips before refrigeration. There wasn’t exactly a Buckey’s stop along the Transcontinental Railroad. We may be experiencing a healthy turn towards fresh foods again, but let us not trip over perfection on our way to progress. Canned foods have their place and not only were they the new shiny thing at the turn of the 20th century, but they were a commodity of survival that helped solidify the working class and therefore the industrial monolith America became. Despite Jeff Berry’s reproach of the Pina Colada, the advent of canned coconut cream during the Caribbean Tiki boom has led to a drink that spans decades. Love you Jeff, and like I told you, I couldn’t do what I do, nor could any of us be enjoying these Tiki drinks, if it wasn’t for your work, but, c’mon man! Pina Coladas are effing delicious! 

Next up is coconut milk. You can find this in the baking aisle or if your market has an ethnic foods section it will be with the Thai stuff. Otherwise, you can use whatever coconut milk products are in the healthy milk aisle. Usually, next to the almond and oat milks. I haven’t done the research but I know some of those products are blended with other things and I believe the canned stuff actually contains more real coconut. 

What I think makes or breaks Coquito is Vanilla extract. It’s the unsung hero among coconut, rum, and spices, that adds a nuance of depth. An epicurean hint to an otherwise mainstream palate. It’s like when a rich guy dresses down for a dive bar but still wears fancy shoes. We know, bro. We know. Madagascar, Hawaiian, or your standard storebrand. It doesn’t really matter what style you use as long as it’s real vanilla extract and not the imitation shit. Whatever cool points you thought you lost by using spiced and coconut rums, here’s your chance to make it up with good vanilla. It truly provides a throughline that softens and binds the other flavors while upgrading the sophistication. 

The aforementioned spices will be cinnamon and nutmeg. 

A few notes on prep. First, when opening the coconut milk there will be a layer of natural fats that coagulates at the top of the can. We want to stir that into the milk before adding it to the mix. Also, don’t worry about scraping out all the thick condensed milk. A full can is almost too much, so whatever sticks to the sides is fine to disregard. That’s an integral step that can affect the outcome. Just dump in, let it drip, and toss the remainder. 

Alright, here we go. The Coquito recipe I’ve been adjusting over the course of almost a decade right up to this very year:

1 13.5 oz can Coconut Milk

1 14 oz can Condensed Milk

1 12 oz can Evaporated Milk

1 oz Vanilla Extract

8 oz Coconut Rum

8 oz Spiced Rum

¼ tsp Cinnamon

¼ tsp Nutmeg

Mix all ingredients in a blender, bottle and chill overnight. Serve in small, Christmas themed, or cordial glasses.  Optional garnish is a cinnamon stick. 

The first sip correctly suggests that a little goes a long way. Both in flavor and ABV. It’s a very powerful, but pleasant, blast of rich, creamy, vanilla, Coconut spice, that teeters on the precarious edge of being too much. But, the holidays are a time of indulgence so, take this drink for what it is - liquid candy. It’s Caribbean Christmas in a glass. All the flavors are there that we expect from the islands embellished by the colonial milk punch trends. 

This much milk product in a drink would usually gross me out, even eggnog I feel only uses milk and cream as a delivery system for frothy booze, but in this case the rum and spices keep the lactose from being overbearing. Warning, if you have issues with lactose maybe proceed with caution and clear a path to the closest lavatory. In this case, drinking responsibly doesn’t only refer to the alcohol content. 

Coconut and vanilla take center stage in this drink, followed by baking spice. Nothing here has to change. It’s delicious and will garner a windfall of wide eyed smiles from the uninitiated. But, in the spirit of colloquialism, I wonder how some orange zest might brighten things up. Perhaps splitting condensed milk with a measure of coconut cream. Or, adding some chili pepper. 

What makes Coquito difficult to cover as a recipe is also what makes it intriguing. That there is no definitive recipe; That every Puerto Rican family has a recipe that is just as unique to them as their food, drink, and culture is to the rest of the Caribbean. I want to hear all of the family stories and … try all of the Coquitos. 

Feliz Navidad, Buon Natale, and Merry Christmas from Pod Tiki.

Sources: Liquor.com, Wikipedia. 

Most of all thanks for listening, drink responsibly, and Keepi Tiki! 

Pod Tiki: Test Pilot/Jet Pilot

I’ve always loved flying. Being suspended in the air. The plane roaring down the runway building to a crescendo that culminates with the weightless peace of breaking from the planet’s surface. Some people, like my wife, can’t stand that feeling. To me it feels freeing. Like God is allowing us to taste a diluted sip of heaven the way some parents may water down wine for a child on holidays. For, if ever primitive man made it above the clouds no doubt this is where our notions of Heaven began. 

With altitude those gravitationally tethered to the world below become but a living topography. Before you know it there you are hanging in pale gray-blues. Wisps of clouds floating below like cotton on the surface of water. Like foam on a thin reaching tide. 

At times I have found myself over water. Watching an emerald turquoise coast fade to deep azure abyss.

My favorite, though, is when clouds blanket the sky below the plane in a thick pillowy sheet of celestial white. It’s beautiful. I’ve never seen anything so brilliantly pure. Cut off from the world below by this magnificent snow-flower veil not even the toddler treating the back of my seat like it owes him money can disturb my enraptured reverie. 

One awe inspiring morning, above one such duvet cover of clouds, the sunset formed a border of yellow-gold cutting across the horizon and sandwiched by an even thinner line of pastel red below and layers of blue above. The sharp distinction of colors reminded me of neapolitan ice cream. Hitherto or since I have never seen anything like it and even now I’m saddened a bit because the memory grows dull with age. 

The act of flying is not the only thing I love about air travel. I’m one of those weirdos who loves airports. As big as Chicago or Denver where we made a mad dash with bags in tow making our connection just in time. Or, as small as José Martí in Havana when climbing the tarmac stairs to board the plane made it feel like a Bogart movie. 

There are abstract ideas surrounding air travel. The oddity of liminal space. A transitory crossroads. I enjoy sitting at an airport bar, and not just because it’s ok to start drinking at 6am, but because I get to meet and speak to fellow travelers. Discover their comings and goings. Learn about the otherwise dross of life that I find so fascinating. And, there’s an element of escapism that we can appreciate. Not only does do the planes take us to exotic places, but even the anticipation being at the airport brings is exhilarating. I always feel like vacation starts as soon I we clear security. 

I don’t even need to be going somewhere tropical or exotic. Any new place on any occasion could be an adventure. In the words of the late Jimmy Buffett, “The importance of elsewhere is still so important to me.” 

You won’t find me in sweatpants and slippers at the airport, either. First of all, I have self-respect. Second, I am still in awe of air travel much the way one may’ve been in 1934 when Don the Beachcomber’s first opened their doors amid a boom of commercial air travel that changed the world. 

Aviation technology advanced greatly during World War I, most notably the switch from wooden to metal aircraft. After the war the Allied countries found themselves with an excess of transport planes which converted nicely to accommodate passengers. A metal fuselage was an important innovation because it allowed for higher and faster flights due to its ability to handle extreme temperature fluctuations. For civilian travel it meant flights through different climates were now possible. Say, perhaps from the midwest to the Caribbean. While Donn Beach was capitalizing on his version of exotica, astonishing people who previously could only read about it, access to those places was availing itself. One might be inclined to think this would hurt his business, but on the contrary, the faux exotic craze exploded gangbusters. For those who could travel thery came home wanting to relive their tropical experiences and those who couldn’t travel now had more first hand accounts of those exotic places. 

However, if you’re picturing a Southwest flight to Jamaica you’d still be a few decades off. Early air travel meant bumpy flights in unpressurized cabins. Another critical invention was the barfbag. Kinda makes Spirit Airlines seem not so bad. By the time Pan Am and the post-modern travel posters of the 1950’s and 60’s made international travel ubiquitous, a new age of exploration was upon us. 

Of course, early air travel was cost prohibitive, but by the late 20th century into the 2000’s it was actually affordable enough for all people to be able to experience the mind broadening cultural education of other places. Until recently. I remember just a few years ago when I could fly from Nashville to Orlando for a hundred bucks. The most expensive part of travel was the hotel, now for my wife and I to fly it costs more than the hotel stay! I can’t say enough about how I believe everyone should travel. Even if it’s not somewhere exotic. We live in a relatively giant country that has every kind of climate and terrain. If you live in a city, go spend some time in middle America. If you stay in the mountains, go see the coast. Go skiing, surfing, hiking. Eat at an Italian restaurant in Manhattan and a gumbo shop in New Orleans. And, get out of the cruise port. Go see the city. The town. The people. Be safe, but get uncomfortable. Uncomfortability is the first chapter in the book of progress. 

Something else unexpected happened with the travel boom. While social media and television have advertised the luxurious parts of traveling to new and exciting places we’ve also seen the rise of destination tourism, traveling to a locale to see a specific thing. Tiki is no exception. Of course you expect to see tropical bars in the tropics, but Chicago, Georgia, New York, London? When my wife and I travel we always try to find experiences unique to the location, but I also look for the closest Tiki bar and cigar shop. Not every place has a Tiki bar but tropical tonks have been on the rise with the popularity of “summer culture”, and usually there’s a Tiki or Tiki adjacent bar. Even in Gilbert, Minnesota. Shout out to the Whistling Bird where my wife, my mother-in-law, and I had dinner and drinks in a tropical enclave amid the sharp blistering winds and fluffy coniferous trees of Minnesota. Hell, there’s even a Margaritaville in the Mall of America! 

We owe a lot to the pervasiveness of air travel. From the Wright brothers to Beryl Markham. From cross-continental air buses to the sea planes that inevitably streak the sky of the Caribbean. My own grandpa, to whom I owe my adventurous spirit, piloted his own small plane. My mom tells stories of being a child in New York, coming home from school, and my grandpa saying, “We’re flying to Maine for dinner.” Innovation in aircraft technology changed how we see the world and innovation in Tiki changed how we escape. Some of that innovation came from Stephen Crane when he opened the Luau and used one of Don the Beachcomber’s signature cocktails to stake his claim on the genre. Today we explore the Test Pilot and Jet Pilot. 

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki. 

Much in the same way that air travel progressed from bi-planes to luxury private jets Tiki drinks also evolve over time. As the race to take to the skies became the race for better fighter planes became the space race, Tiki drinks went from the Test Pilot to the Jet Pilot to the Space Pilot. 

Donn Beach was definitely influenced by the flight craze as evidenced in one of his earliest creations, the Test Pilot. A marriage of Caribbean crispness with a dash of Pernod to give it that Tiki twist, the earliest documented Test Pilot recipe comes from 1941, but it’s regarded to have been mixed up and served in the 1930’s making it one of the first Tiki drinks alongside its brethren the Zombie. As the Tiki diaspora spread across the U.S. and the popularity seeded imitators and innovators looking to profit and proliferate the genre Donn had to hide his recipes using code. The names however could be adjusted to capitalize on the craze. Like when Stephen Crane opened the Luau and turned the Test Pilot into the Jet Pilot. 

Crane didn’t just change the name, but the whole recipe while still managing to steal from Donn. He actually made the Jet Pilot a rip off of Donn’s Zombie. I actually have to give props to those who so expertly reverse engineered the drinks to discover the recipe. It’s how Jeff Berry first began deciphering original recipes. But, Stephen is special to Tiki in another way. Don the Beachcomber invented Tiki. Trader Vic brought a culinary approach to perfecting cocktailing and added cuisine. Stephen Crane expounded on the aesthetic we know and love about Tiki bars. 

In order to understand Crane’s persona in Tiki we need to understand his persona before Tiki. You see, Stephen Crane was one of those guys who was determined to make it by any means. But, not in the boots on the ground grind it out kind of way. No, Stephen was more akin to a social media influencer of today. No real talent except for the ability to co-mingle with talented people.

He tried his hand as an actor and a boxing promoter before eventually finding his niche as a gambler. And, he was quite good at it. In fact, he had such a knack for bluffing that he actually got starlet Lana Turner to marry him, three weeks after their meeting, under the auspices that he was the heir to a tobacco legacy. Turns out his dad owned a small cigar shop in Indiana. 

The pair of divas were married in 1942 and quickly annulled when Lana discovered Stephen wasn’t yet divorced from his previous wife. Oops! Of course, when Lana got pregnant with Steve’s baby they remarried a year later. Ridiculous relationships like this are why I love old Hollywood. Despite all the perceived glamor these stories read like any of the central Florida suburban white trash relationships I grew up in and around. Oh, and Steve and Lana divorced a second time within a year. 

Loathe would old Steve be to stop trying there. No, his tumultuous and sordid personal life included very public trists with Rita Hayworth and Ava Gardner alongside many other marriages and divorces with both American and French actresses and models. 

Maybe one of the most famous Stephen Crane stories doesn’t involve him at all. Which would really irk his ego. Steve’s daughter, Cheryl, was 14 years old and living with her mom Lana Turner and her mom’s abusive mobbed up boyfriend, Johnny Stompanato. Stompanato was a character in his own right, but since this is a Tiki podcast and not a Mafia show I’ll stick to the highlights. I gotta share this, though. 

Stompanato, an enforcer for mob boss Mickey Cohen, had tons of run-ins with celebrities since the Cohen family operated out of Los Angeles. Not the least of which was another purported friend of the family Frank Sinatra. But, my favorite story about Stompanato is that he was so jealous one time that Lana was acting alongside Sean Connery that he flew to London, stormed the set, and pulled a gun on Connery. For those of you who only remember Sean Connery as an older gentleman let me remind you he was a bodybuilder and trained in martial arts before becoming an actor. The 6’ 2” thespian was having none of Stompanato’s shenanigans. Sean grabbed the gangster’s wrist and snapped the gun out if his hand in one motion. Yeah, don’t fuck with James Bond. 

The story involving Cheryl Crane has to do with Stompanato’s demise. By 1958 Cherly had enough of her mom getting beat up by some half-wit mobster and during an altercation she fatally stabbed Stompanato effectively stomping out the Stompanato. 

All the while Stephen Crane was making a living hustling the Hollywood elites and hobnobbing with socialites around town in such establishments like Don the Beachcomber’s. Teaming up with his literal partner in crime, Al Mathes, Crane was making enough money gambling to start purchasing bars. His first few attempts went south quickly but by the time he opened the Luau, on Rodeo Drive, in 1953, it seems he was taking it seriously. He snagged a few Beachcomber bartenders, who were able to recreate the drinks close enough, but what made the Luau unique was the showmanship. A live Luau, of course, and a decor that exaggerated the Tiki faux-poly-pop design that we associate with Tiki bars now. Adding large totems and fanning foliage, Polynesian dancers, and colorful lighting, Steve Crane took the aesthetic to the next level. If Don and Vic took real tropical exotica and amalgamated it into a dreamlike escape. Crane Disney-fied it into a cartoon. That’s the impression I get from the little information available regarding the original Luau. 

What is documented is how Stephen Crane lived up to his predecessors in the showman department. He greeted patrons and presided over the restaurant in white linen suits, silk shirts, ascots and orchid leis. Crane also held his own amid Tiki forbears with clientele. Tiki bars were hotspots to see and be seen throughout the 30’s, 40’s and into the 50’s, and the Luau was no exception. No matter how cool those old staples are everyone always flocks to the new hotness. I see it in bars and restaurants here in Nashville all the time. To the point where it’s now come full circle to I’s rather go to a place I know I like than chase the new paper thing that will be torn and tattered and changed to something different in a few months. It’s all the same despite the shiny exterior. Don’t get me wrong, I love a gimmick. I’m a Tiki fan, after all. But the gimmick has to be good enough to last the test of time. The Luau did that. And, in California. The place where Tiki was invented. The place where Don the Beachcomber’s and Trader Vic’s were still very popular. 

In fact, Stephen Crane’s emulation of Vic didn’t stop with the Luau. Much in the way our old buddy Conrad Hilton tapped Vic to open restaurants in his hotels Sheraton propositioned Crane to so the same. Crane created the idea of Kon-Tiki Ports, wherein each restaurant boasted four unique concepts in one. The famous Polynesian Papeete Room. The Singapore, Saigon, or Macao rooms. An entry lounge shaped like a life sized sailing ship. All exotic experiences available in one Kon-Tiki restaurant only at a Sheraton near you! Opening first in Montreal, Kon-Tiki Ports soon dotted North America from coast to drinking coast competing with and holding his own against paragons and profligates alike in the crescendo rise and eventual rolling sizzle-out wave of Tiki. Along the way Steve cultivated such careers the likes of Ray Barrientos and Bob Esmino. But, Kon-Tiki and its denizens are a tale for a different day. 

It’s thanks to Bob Esmino, an Don the Beachcomber alum, that we have the recipe for Steve’s Jet Pilot. Even though Bob worked at Kon-Tiki and not the Luau it stands to reason that Steve used the same drinks across his endeavors. Bob being a Beachcomber bartender is kind of funny when you think that he must’ve known the Jet Pilot was simply a Zombie knock-off. 

With respect, it was indeed the Luau that made this drink famous, even though in my opinion Donn’s original Test Pilot is a better drink because it’s unlike anything else whereas the Jet Pilot is a fine tipple but, we already have a drink in the lexicon so similar and quite frankly uses the flavors better. Even though these drinks share a storied origin in aerospace they are different drinks and that is why we are covering them both in this episode. Therefore, we’ve reached the part of the show where you’re tired of a history lesson and it’s time to make TWO drinks! 

We’ll begin like any experiment should, with the Test. 

This early Beachcomber recipe is a testament to Donn’s acumen and awareness to not have his drinks be too similar. Because, let’s face it. As much as we all like to extol the virtues of fresh juices, from scratch syrups, and the nuances of pot vs column still, Tiki has a flavor profile. It’s why Tiki bars can have so many drinks on the menu. Much like a Taco Bell, it’s a lot of the same ingredients in different shapes. Which is why the greats, like Donn, Vic, Yee, and Scialom, took heed using similar ingredients in innovative ways.

Let’s start with ingredients. Donn works his magic here with his signature blending of two rums to create a desired intensity. When I was learning how to DJ my friend and mentor, Teejay, taught me the cheat to mixing is to choose two songs that sound alike. My misconception with bending rums was attempting to use that formula, believing that similar style rums would compliment each other. And sometimes they do, but what Donn was a master of was using quite different styles to achieve a little flavor of each. In this case a dark, malty, molasses heavy blended Jamaican is mellowed and lightened by a light, crisp, Puerto Rican rum. I happen to have had both Myers’s and Coruba in my bar during this tasting and once again I am partial to Myers’s. Its burnt molasses richness doesn’t get lost when softened with the Bacardi Silver I used for my Puerto Rican rum. I played around with using an amber PR rum, the Havana Club, which I enjoy sipping on, but it didn’t add enough to warrant taking away the crisp fruitiness a light PR rum should have. 

Next we’ll need Cointreau. Really any nice Triple Sec will do, Cointreau is just a brand name, but the recipe called for it specifically and I will admit in all my frugality that it does offer a refined orange flavor that sliced through the drink without a cheap, syrupy, aftertaste. 

After that, Falernum. This is where things take a seemingly exotic turn. Orange liqueur and Falernum compliment each other nicely, but aren’t often found cohabitating the same glass. Furthermore, despite Falernum being used in a lot of Tiki, it is indeed another Caribbean product, beginning in Barbados. In fact, so far this drink is very Caribbean. Jamaica, Puerto Rico, Barbados, and French Liqueur? Not very Polynesian, no? Lime juice and Angostura also keep it in the West Indies. 

The final, and only ingredient that reaches into exotica, is Pernod. Even though Absinthe, Pernod, and even Herbsaint, are of French origin and descent, thanks to Don the Beachcomber most drinkers outside of the French Quarter associate it with Tiki. Once again, Donn’s New Orleans roots betray his slouching towards Polynesia. The main reason I love Tiki and Donn’s style so much is that it’s gleaned from so many aspects of experience. As I assume with all of you out there, from my own mishegas and unseen nuance, and many influences, comes the style and perception through which I offer my view of the world to you. 

The recipes that makes us who we are may be legion but as for the Test Pilot the it is as follows:

1 ½ oz Dark Jamaican Rum

¾ oz Light Puerto Rican Rum 

¾ oz Cointreau

½ oz Falernum

½ oz Lime Juice

6 drops Pernod

2 dashes Angostura Bitters

1 cup Crushed Ice

Blend everything for 5 seconds and open pour into a double rocks glass or small tiki mug. Garnish with a cocktail cherry skewered on an oyster fork. 

At first sip the Test Pilot is a light, fun, rum punch. Heavy on orange fruitiness but with the notes of rummy depth. It’s a bright libation. Not robust, actually quite demur, but full of sunny tropical flavor. It's got heavy creamsicle vibes and is redolent of Nui Nui, but in the way that it seems like a Caribbean punch prepared in Tiki fashion. The only thing that screams Tiki is that the Pernod hints at exotic adding notes that are complementary, yet distant from the rest. It’s like the whole drink is a well balanced orchestra while Pernod is playing a second line riff in the corner. 

Overall, I love this drink. It’s shallow in the best way. Hovering, flavor-wise, atop the surface hinting at a depth that is there if one chooses to dive, but can also be enjoyed by simply floating along with an ankle over the side pulling a slight wake. 

Much like aeronautics in the mid-20th century it’s now time to go from the Test phase to the Jet! 

I've made a few illusions to the Jet Pilot’s similarity to the Zombie and I think the ingredient list will make my point.  Now, I love jets. My Grandpa,  who piloted a bi-plane, would’ve loved jets, because he loved mechanical innovation. If jets took the physics of flight and used human ingenuity to build upon it, i.e., jet propulsion on propeller planes, then the Jet Pilot expounded on the idea of the Test Pilot using higher octane fuel to achieve extreme altitudes. But Stephen Crane didn’t just build upon Donn’s recipe, he totally ripped off a different recipe and called it by the name of yet a whole ‘nother recipe. Check this out: 

1 oz Dark Jamaican Rum

¾ oz Gold Puerto Rico Rum

¾ oz Over-Proof Demerara Rum

½ oz Lime Juice

½ oz Grapefruit Juice

½ oz Cinnamon Syrup

½ oz Falernum

6 drops Pernod

2 dashes Angostura Bitters

4 oz Crushed Ice

Blend everything on high for 5 seconds and open pour into a double rocks glass. Top off with crushed ice to fill and garnish with cinnamon stick, swizzle, and choice funky straw. 

For the dark Jamaica rum I stuck with Myers’s. The Gold Puerto rican was Bacardi 8. For Overproof Dem I used Plantation OFTD. Falernum, is John T. Taylor, and Pernod is Pernod. My cinnamon syrup I make at home using the recipe from Sippin’ Safari though I add an extra cinnamon stick or two to exaggerate the flavor. Angostura, lime and grapefruit juice should be self-explanatory. 

Look, a good drink is a good drink. Is this a Zombie rip-off? Yes. But, I can’t argue that the Zombie is a wonderful drink that stays wonderful even if the ingredient levels are messed with. Therefore, upon first sip, the Jet Pilot is pure Tiki. A brilliant dovetailing of dissonance. Each flavor stands out. It’s an omnipresent experience. The Jet’s not as amalgamated and smoothed over as Donn’s creations. Where the Zombie is a finished wall, the Jet Pilot is all exposed brick and rebar and concrete. I recall that fad a few years back in all the hip bars. It was never for me, as I prefer to relax in spaces that don’t look like the contractor ran out of money halfway through the build. 

It definitely does as advertised and jets you into the stratosphere with a generous amount of overproof rum. I warn you, this is not a test. 

Okay, one more thing before we get outta here. You guys know I’m a lightweight when it comes to overproof rum. And, it just so happened I copped myself a bottle of Hamilton Jamaican Pot Still Black, which is not usually available here. So, in a stroke of 3rd drink genius I swapped the Overproof Demerara for the Pot Still Black and proceeded to bask in the magic. Holy shit! The drink transformed into a malty, rich-thick, candy like those little boxes of Whoppers at Halloween. Dark molasses and cinnamon make splendid companions. It’s just a wow! combo. Which is why this version is the official Pod Pilot. 

One thing’s for sure, whether you’re testing or jetting these drinks are sure to get you to cruising altitude. To paraphrase Dr. Thompson, you bought the ticket. So, sit back and enjoy the flight. 

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and we know you have options when choosing your podcasts so we thank you for flying Pod Tiki Air. 

Sources:  liquor.com, Remixed and Sippin’ Safari by Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, Wikipedia, mytiki.life, Google AI,

Pod Tiki: Vieux Carre

As we pulled up to the sidewalk and stretched our legs after 5 hours on the road an affable tall man in a white coat helped us with our bags before taking the keys in exchange for a valet ticket. Approaching the check-in desk through the marbled opulence of the lobby we knew this would be a stay in New Orleans like no other. 

“Just take the Royal Elevators up. Right over there.” Finding our room we could feel history emanating from the walls. The joi de vivre of a century’s worth of guests. The Royal Salon room we splurged on was amazing and many nights after consuming as much music, food, drinks, and culture we could imbibe were spent in the deep marble tub with only our heads and a wine glass floating in the steam. 

On our first day, though, we freshened up, changed clothes, and made our way back downstairs to find two fortuitous seats waiting for us at The Carousel Bar. We stayed for one full rotation around the circular spinning bar taking in the ornate carved reliefs, carnival lighting, and circus themed art. We sipped our first drink slowly under the canopy of colorful pomp and circumstance. The second cocktail disappeared a bit quicker. 

I had done some research on the special places I wanted to visit, choosing Hotel Monteleone partly because it housed this famous lounge, but I didn’t realize at the time the New Orleans original drink we were so excited to order in the city it was invented was actually first mixed up right there where we were sitting. This is gonna be a big episode so put some Professor Longhair on the radio, keep the gumbo on the stove - don’t forget the filé seasoning, and settle in for a spell as we explore the life and times of the Vieux Carré

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki.   

One can’t really call New Orleans diverse because all the unique facets have amalgamated into a monolith of culture all its own. From Mardi Gras Indians, all the different definitions of Creole, African slaves, French colonial, pirates, VooDoo, LGBTQ, and of course drinking. Whether you’re in an opulent hotel or ambling along Bourbon Street no one can deny the crescent city’s contribution to cocktail culture and I can’t think of any other place that so well exemplifies its culture in its drinks. French Cognacs, American whiskeys, Caribbean rums, and throw in some absinthe for good measure. But, before we build today’s cocktail we have to build the place where today's cocktail was invented. 

Antonio Monteleone emigrated from Sicily to New Orleans, Louisiana in 1880. A cobbler by trade, he did well for himself with a little shop on Royal Street. Cobblerin’ must’ve been good money back then because when the Commercial Hotel came up for sale down the street from his shop, well, he dove into the hotelier business. 

Upon entering the 20th century Antonio expanded the hotel fashioning it into a New Orleans experience par excellence. One that by 1908 was worthy of his family name. Thus, Hotel Monteleone was born. Before researching this before my stay I had no idea there was such a large Italian community in New Orleans. The muffaletta makes more sense now. 

By the time Antonio died in 1913, passing the hotel to his son, Frank, the Monteleone had become a prestigious gathering place for locals and celebrities alike. 

Frank took the Monteleone head first into the roaring twenties leaning heavily into the jazz craze that set the backdrop for a nation’s frivolity. Frank’s leadership is credited for surviving Hotel Monteleone through the Great Depression. The late 20’s and early 30’s saw more rounds of expansion and added the Swan Room, a bar and lounge that boasted Liberace as their first performance. Entertainers took to hanging out in the lounge after shows which quickly solidified the bar as the place to be. 

Emerging once again from the fogs of vicissitude the hotel underwent another huge expansion after WW2. In times of economic turmoil and geopolitical upheaval there are some who still stand to profit. It seems some things never change. 

It was during these additions in 1949 when the Swan Room became the Carousel Bar. The circular bar topped with a red and white striped circus tent top surrounded by stationary stools used a system of chains and rollers beneath the floor to the rotate the entire bar. Making a full revolution every 25 minutes patrons perched atop their seats like so many carnival horses would presumably find it hard to discern when they’d had too many as the room was literally spinning. 

Over the next half century the Carousel Bar continued the legacy of being a gathering place for socialites. To borrow a line from Taylor Swift, “The who’s who of who’s that.” This is when the hotel garnered its reputation for a hub of literary culture with such infamous guests as Tennessee Williams, William Faulkner, and Ernest Hemingway whose eponymous suite resides just beside the rooftop pool where my wife and I would take our afternoons sipping Pimm’s Spritz in the bayou sun. 

In 1992 the Carousel Bar was upgraded from a basic carnival tent design to a full on circus carousel theme complete with the aforementioned carvings of jester faces and cherubs, linear bulb lights, and new seats with high backs painted in animal and circus act murals. If you follow the Pod Tiki Instagram @pod_tiki I believe there are pictures of us there. My first drink was a Sazerac, the best I’d ever had, and my second was the Vieux Carre, which they serve on the rocks. Because they were our first drinks after a 5 hour drive I couldn’t tell if it was the room or my head spinning but I was able to notice that the bar was an unbroken circle with a column shelf in the middle storing bottles. When I asked the bartender how they got in and out he answered with a tacit arching arm motion that said “over the top!” 

The Carousel Bar was one of the places on my list of why I wanted to visit New Orleans. We went a few times during our stay and it did not disappoint. Evenings found the room packed and spilling over into the adjoining lounge where a jazz band still played like the twenties. Partakers sipped whiskey and Cognac drinks while drifting from conversations with friend and stranger alike and sharing the bar with the ghosts of how many bibulous souls. 

That the bar still spins on those original two thousand ball bearings is a testament to how culture continues to spin through time. There is no replacement for face to face social interaction. 

Hotel Monteleone and the Carousel Bar are magnificent works of opulent engineering, but I contend it’s the people who visit that earned the hotel in 2007 its ranking among the Historic Hotels of America. And, considering how the lights above the jacuzzi in our room would cut out every night only to work perfectly the next morning, it seems some souls loved it so much they never checked out. Like the watchful portrait of Antonio Monteloene who still looks over the lobby with pride. 

A pride shared by Walter Bergeron, no relation to Vic as far as I can tell, who was the head bartender of Carousel Bar in 1938 when it’s purported he stirred up the first Vieux Carre. Vieux carre translates to “old square”, and is named after an old term for the French Quarter. The drink shares some similarities with the Sazerac. But where sazerac separates the American whiskey and French Cognac versions, Walter embodied the true melting pot nature of the French Quarter by slamming the two styles of drinking together. 

With a split base of Cognac and rye whiskey, Peychaud’s and Angostura bitters, sweet Vermouth, and throw some Benedictine in there, it covers the eclectic blend of French, American, Italian, and spiritual that made up historical New Orleans culture. It’s jazz in a glass. 

Come to think of it, Don the Beachcomber hailed from New Orleans. One wonders if some of his wild creativity about mixing different cultures in the glass were inspired by the Big Easy. Speaking of Don Beach, who opened his first location the day after prohibition was repealed, you might be wondering how the Monteleone managed to stay such a hot spot during prohibition. The answer is, well, New Orleans never really acknowledged it. It sounds crazy but it seems even though the Volstead Act was in effect on paper New Orleans was historically such a port of call for rumrunners, bootleggers, and, well, the French, that lawmen turned a blind eye. Some even adopted an, “if you can’t beat’em, join’em” approach. 

The Vieux Carre is a pretty beloved cocktail, and it is a true cocktail by definition, so there’s no real controversy to speak over preparation of ingredients. In fact, even that there’s two ways of serving it seems to be ok with people. Carousel Bar, where the drink was invented, serves it on the rocks. As do most establishments. But it’s perfectly acceptable to request it straight up in a cocktail glass. That is how my wife and I prefer them and, even though the Carousel Bar is legendary, my favorite Vieux Carre I had in New Orleans was from Napoleon House. Maybe it was because the bartender making them there had a creole accent. 

In the place that gave us the Hurricane and the Sazerac, Vieux Carre is like a step up to a finer, epicurean, experience. It’s also a big boy drink as far as alcohol content. It’s the who’s booze of New Orleans drinking. Notwithstanding the city’s reputation for indulgence the other side of that is an experienced moderate enjoyment. Sure, one can party all day and get drunk. And by one, I mean me and the thousands of people who alighted on Bourbon street for the annual Red Dress Run, which took place while we were there. But, there are other times that a drink here or there between sightseeing or listening to some street jazz suits the occasion just right. The locals are very attuned to the notion of responsible drinking and it wears off on you when you’re there. You don’t want to be perceived as another drunken tourist invader. That’s how we differ here in Nashville where we are right there getting drunk alongside our invaders. 

There’s a level of enjoyment that comes from savoring a Vieux Carre after a meal of seafood gumbo or accompanying the sounds of jazz piano on Frenchmen Street.  I can wax rhapsodic about Vieux Carres all day. But, you know what’s better than talking about them? Drinking them. Let’s make a drink!  

The ingredients and measurements are straightforward and agreed upon across all my usual sources and the International Bartender’s Association. A seldom virtue among often convoluted cocktail history. We’re gonna start with rye whiskey. My choice here is Rittenhouse Rye. We go into detail regarding the Rittenhouse brand and the history of Bottled in Bond whiskies in our Sazerac episode available in the archive on PodTiki.com or streaming on Spotify, Apple podcasts, or iHeart radio. If you want to keep the drink more pure in New Orleans you can still purchase bottles of Sazerac Rye Whiskey from the Sazerac House which I believe is distilled there. If you’re getting it anywhere else it comes from the Buffalo Trace distillery in Kentucky. In which case I personally believe Rittenhouse is a better product for a better price. Coming in under $40 per bottle I repeatedly searched for other option thinking more expensive meant better only to return to the house of Ritten. 

Then we’ll need Cognac. In the past you may’ve heard me tout Pierre Ferand, which is a very fine Cognac. But, as my tastes mellow with age I find it to be a bit hot on the palate. These days I’ve been liking Martell, a very nice Cognac with more body and sweetness versus alcohol bite. Both of these work wonderfully in cocktails of this nature so, which you choose depends on what you prefer to sip on neat. Full transparency, that factors heavily into my spirit choice. Unless the recipe calls for a specific brand I usually pick what I like neat so the bottle doesn’t sit there taking up space in my bar. 

When it comes to Italian rosso vermouth I absolutely have a preference. Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth is an amazing product that compliments, if not defines, such classics like the Manhattan and Negroni, as well as being a fine cordial. This runs $20 for a 375ml bottle which is all you need seeing as how, being a wine product, vermouth starts going bad once you open it. If you choose to go with a more cost approbative option just make sure that it’s a fresh bottle and not that one that’s been hiding in the refrigerator door since you went through that Negroni phase during covid. 

The final main ingredient is Benedictine. If you’re making the drinks along with us you probably have some left over from the Singapore Sling episode. We did a deep dive in that episode but Benedictine is a herbal liqueur that is, yes, made by benedictine monks in Fecamp, France. There are some cool stories there so fo back and listen to that episode if you haven’t. Or, if you had it on in the background and weren’t listening. Hey, I get it. I listen to so many podcasts passing the time at work that I barely recall what I learned this morning. 

Lastly, we’ll need Peychaud’s and Angostura Bitters. In the Sazerac episode we also heavily discussed Antoine Peychaud and his part in the invention of the cocktail as we know it. Good stuff. 

And the recipe is:

¾ oz Rye Whiskey

¾ oz Cognac

½ oz Vermouth

¼ oz Benedictine

2 dashes Angostura Bitters 

2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters

Stir everything with plenty of ice and strain into a cocktail glass or small rocks glass. You may’ve noticed the ½ oz amount of vermouth when every recipe out there calls for ¾. Much like the city of New Orleans itself the Vieux Carre cocktail requires a precariously delicate balance to keep it copacetic. Otherwise, it can devolve rapidly into chaos. Crafting the perfect version necessitates the experience and expertise of a weathered mixologist. I’m not saying I am that, but I do have a decent palate. I found that going a little light on vermouth rendered a drink more akin to what I tasted in New Orleans. 

Another congruent between the city and the drink is the explosion of flavor. The first sip of a Vieux Carre is just as pleasantly in your face as a walk down Bourbon Street on Saturday night or a bowl of filé gumbo. It’s an omnipotent experience. All the notes are exaggerated but harmonious. The texture silky, the rye bite, the rich sweetness even though there’s no added sugar, all come together in a distinct slice of Americana. Because all those nationalities in one drink combined to create something new and greater than the sum of its parts is indeed a microcosm of America. 

If I’m attempting to break down the profile I would say the whiskey bite is sweetened and softened by cognac and vermouth, the latter adding a patina of regal whimsy to the otherwise full bodied libation. The bitters are definitely necessary and the Peychaud’s gives an essence of anise even though there’s none in there. Basically it’s bold and rich. I can understand why some folks prefer it over ice. 

Another distinguishing characteristic is how boozy it is. I actually had to split my tasting up into two days, because after two Vieux Carres I was too tipsy to properly taste anything. And that’s coming from a Tiki guy. The problem is they’re actually pretty delicious and, much like the city of New Orleans, the indulgence seems acceptable.  

Not since Havana has my heart been penetrated so deeply by a place. There is something special about New Orleans. It’s in the music, the history, the way locals speak about their home. It’s in the food and the heavy air. It emanates through cracks in jagged sidewalks. It’s in the artwork on the walls of Tremé, the statues in Armstrong Park, and spills out from bars on Bourbon street. It spins around the Carousel Bar, rests in the hallowed halls of Monteleone, and it’s in the French Quarter, the Old Square, the Vieux Carre. 

Ladies and gentleman, my name is Tony, and this has been Pod Tiki. 

Sources: liquor.com, diffordsguide.com, imbibe.com, Wikipedia, gardenandgun.com Spin Through Seventy-Five Years of Carousel Bar History  By Jenny Adams, historichotels.org

Most of all thank you for listening and Keepi Tiki!

Pod Tiki: Demerara Cocktail


It all looks the same. If you’ve seen one beach you’ve seen them all. It’s too hot. There’s nothing to do. These are a few of the common refrains echoed by the tropically uninitiated. Sure, there are common denominators but particulars like flora, fauna, cuisine, and culture identify each tropicale as a unique environmental economy. 

As a teenager in Central Florida sabal, queen, and date palm trees were ubiquitous. I thought palm trees were palm trees, till the first time I traveled to Jamaica and saw royal palms or the tall coconut trees of the Yucatan Peninsula. On a jungle trail in Kauai, a shallow plant canopy arching over my head, the thing I noticed most was how the leave’s patterns resembled the weaved striations of Polynesian artwork. 

The placid tide of the Caribbean, rolling from underneath itself like a sheet whipped over the mattress, is much different than the white capped growl of Atlantic surf, which separates itself by longitudes from its undulating Pacific brethren. 

The soft roasted palate of Cuba, or the rich notes of Jamaican jerk may not appreciate the fruity spice of Mexican breakfast, or delicate umami notes of Hawaiian seared Mahi. However, it’s not the differences, but the similarities that bring the tropics together. 

I suppose it’s like a connoisseur. Wine, bourbon, coffee, tobacco, and, of course, rum require a discerning taste to be able to differentiate specific terroir induced flavors. Sort of how if someone doesn’t like a certain kind of music it all sounds the same to them. People like what they like and I’m not here to change anyone’s mind. That being said, within the tropaholic community we occupy a special place here in the U.S. situated between the birthplace of rum, with all its multicultural - geopolitical influences, and the origins of exotica, replete with native history - mythos - and craftsmanship of the Pacific islands. In between there is a vast expanse of Americana that acted like the crock pot necessary to cook up what would become Tiki. In that analogy I suppose Don the Beachcomber was the chef. 

If you’ve listened for any amount of time you know I am partial to the Caribbean side of tropical. 

When I think Polynesia I think hidden local beaches, trade winds, giant fragrant flowers, and a laid back apathy that almost comes off indignant if one doesn’t know better. Sometimes, even if one does. A group of people minding their own business who got duped into being a state united. It’s no wonder they have thoughts towards interlopers. Reminds me of how the mafia got started. Local Sicilians banding together against oppressive government. Imagine a Hawaiian mafia. With all the vowels it probably wouldn’t sound much different than New York Italian. Aloha, gumbata! 

Steel guitars, ukuleles, broadleaf textured plants, wild beaches, humuhumunukunukuapua'a, mahalo and all pau. There’s no way to capture my personal experience of Hawaii in a single podcast, but, as a haole, I appreciate the nuance. Growing up in Orlando, I understand the necessity for a tourist community to maintain an identity of their own. Which is exactly what I love about the Caribbean. 

Sweaty linen shirts, panama hats, rum drinks, cuban jazz, slow tides, listless palm fronds, patoi dialects, cigars, Spanish and French architecture, Humphrey Bogart, Jimmy Buffett, Hunter Thompson, Ernest Hemimgway, Bob Marley, Che Guevara, Herman Wouk, Henry Morgan, Mayan ruins, Dutch Curacao, Jamaican rum, St, Augustine, hurricane by-plane sugarcane wood-frame, cruise ship bullshit tight lip place to slip when you wanna dip these are a few of my favorite things. 

From the time of colonizers the Caribbean has had an air of tropical indulgence amid a rank and file plebeian class of natives and slaves who paid the price for such indulgences. To placate them plantation workers were given rations of molasses, the byproduct of processing sugarcane, which they distilled into a strong, sweet spirit known as rumbustion. As rum hopped from island to island, altered each time by the pervading nationality, it took on unique characteristics for each region. It was traversing these islands centuries later that Donn Beach would garner the knowledge needed to predicate his new vision of exoticism on the use of rum. 

In this way, one could argue that Tiki, invented in California, borrowing heavily from South Pacific and Asian cultures could not have happened without the Caribbean. And yet, Florida and the Caribbean became just as infatuated with Tiki’s faux tropicalia, even though they were in the real tropics! 

As much as I love Florida it would be remiss of me not to admit that there’s a huge difference in a true Tiki bar and the thatched roof outdoor beach shacks the Sunshine state calls tiki bars. They can pop up anywhere from patio’s to rooftops to strip mall parking lots to one of the many beach bar & grills along Florida’s coast. My Favorite is called Coconuts on the Beach on A1A in Cocoa Beach. Tiki mask imagery decorates the large wooden lanai and for the longest time there were tiki totems lining the walkway down to the beach. The drinks are fruity tropical concoctions that are delicious in their own right, and down right dangerous, but beach drinks would be a more appropriate term. When Tropics Cocktail Bar opened down the street they brought true Tiki drinks to Cocoa Beach, but still with a Vintage Caribbean aesthetic. 

The Florida version of tropical drinking isn’t fake, though. Seminole Indians would set up small thatch covered trading posts called chickee huts for selling provisions to the influx of pale skinned invaders. As pilgrims became tourists one can extrapolate that led to provisions of the bibulous sort. The similarity in name and explosion of exotica culture eventually led to ‘chickee’ huts becoming known as ‘tiki’ huts. To this day tiki bars at every Floridian port still serve pale skinned invaders by the boatload. 

Rum drinks never left the Caribbean or southeast U.S., but in a way, it took California’s Tiki movement to reinvigorate the waning popularity of prohibition era tropical drinking and give it a new twist with the exotica element. Fair enough since the west coast stole reggae from us. 

However, this isn’t a Biggie/Tupac rivalry. This is a story of tropical cohesion brought on by one famous bartender, two entrepreneurs, and a nascent movement that took rum drinks back home with a new and exotic twist that proliferated a genre and revitalized a region. This is the story of how Tiki came to the east coast; and it continues our tale of Mariano Licudine, the brothers Thornton, and the infamous Mai Kai. 

Ladies and gentlemen, my name is Tony and this is Pod Tiki. 

I try to make these episodes stand-alone for the sake of posterity, but if you haven’t listened to the previous episode, entitled Vicious Virgin, now would be the appropriate time to pause this and do so. I’ll wait here. No, don’t worry about me. I’ve got a cigar and a drink and plenty of research to still do. … Ok, and we’re back. Glad you’re all caught up. 

When Jack and Bob Thornton chose Ft. Lauderdale, Florida as the home for their new venture there was nothing like it around. Even nearby Miami could not boast anything quite on the scale Jack and Bob had imagined. Florida and the Caribbean had always been a place for tourists and expats, people trying to really escape. But, when Tiki came to Florida it offered the temporary reprieve of elsewhere while only being a doorway away from dreaded reality. Escapism in itself is an artform later expounded on by the likes of Walt Disney and Jimmy Buffett. However, in the mid-1950’s, while a Cold War raged on and the stench of Cuban Revolution hung thick in the humid air, while our fathers slicked their hair back and wore leather jackets not knowing in a few short years they’d be shipped off to a jungle in Southeast Asia, escapism was an unidentified commodity. 

Bob Thornton was a little rough around the edges. I picture club shirts unbuttoned half-way with khakis and boat shoes. His brother Jack preferred the suit and tie approach. One thing they had in common was that they were both the kinda guys you could have a beer with. I don’t know if they were cool guys or not, although I assume so, what I’m referring to is the fact that their father owned a brewery in Wilmette, a few miles north of Chicago. So, in theory, you could’ve literally have walked in and had a beer with them. Another thing they had in common was that neither of them was stoked to go into the family business. Together they had a dream. A Tiki dream. I dream of Tiki. 

After Jack taking a trip to Hawaii and Bob becoming a regular at Trader Vic’s while attending Stanford they both fell in love with Polynesia. They considered opening a spot in San Diego but California was already replete with Tiki bars by then. Remembering a spring break in Ft Lauderdale, which is a feat of its own, the brothers decided that would be the perfect spot. Built in tourism, little competition in the genre, and best of all, Florida is actually tropical.

The next step was making sure their place could not only stand up to but surpass even the west coast Tiki giants. They must have had some money in their family because in the words of our former president they “took out a small loan, a fraction of that money”, from mommy dearest and went on tour of Polynesia purchasing hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of artifacts and ephemera. 23 tons in all. Their collection ended up filling 5 dining rooms and 2 lounges. One featuring the famous surfboard bar-top. They even took a page out of Don the Beachcomber’s playbook rigging up water flow down the window to give the impression of being sunken under. Tiki gardens, waterfalls, and lagoons blended with natural Florida to complete the illusory experience. 

Before all that, they needed to build it. And, they needed a staff who knew how to actually make Tiki drinks. It was about this time Mariano Licudine had worked his way up to number 2 bartender at the Chicago Don the Beachcomber’s, an indispensable position. Mariano was already one of Donn’s inner circle and having trained at the original Beachcomber’s was privy to Donn’s recipes. It was for this reason he was sent to open the Chicago branch. But, Mariano was beginning to experiment with his own ideas, not all of which were copesetic with the strict way Donn ran his bars. This made his decision that much easier when Bob and Jack came calling. 

Mariano answered the call with honors. He not only created the bar program, complete with Tiki standards renamed as the Impatient Virgin, Missionary’s Doom, and Deep Sea Diver, as well his own creations like the Demerara Cocktail, but he also had a hand in almost every aspect of the build out. He designed the bars, dining rooms, and decor. In fact, the family got in on it. In his wonderfully insightful book Sippin’ Safari Beachbum Berry cites an anecdote in which Mariano’s son Ron was playing around the waterfall features during construction when he asked the engineer, “where’s the wishing well?”. When the engineer responded, “what wishing well?”, Ron said, “You have water. Where’s your wishing well?” 

By the time The Mai Kai opened in December 1956 it featured a 40 foot high A-frame Tiki longhouse, tropical gardens, hand carved totems, water effects, thatched canoe roofs, a vast array of nautical and Polynesian decor, a high-end dining experience complete with the only place in the sunshine state to get authentic Tiki driks. Oh, and a wishing well. 

These days, in the instagram era, it seems every time a new bar or restaurant concept opens everyone swarms like ants on a discarded apple core. Back then, folks didn’t take so eagerly to new things. Bringing faux exotica to the tropics was a little like a kid bringing their tablet to an IMAX theater. Or, like listening to a band in your earbuds while they’re playing live in front of you. The thing is, if you’ve ever paid an exorbitant amount for tickets to a concert with bad sound and the center for the Orlando Magic is standing right in front of you, you know that sometimes earbuds are a better experience. 

There’s a place for faux escapism. Like the first time I left the tourist area of a Caribbean island looking for an authentic experience just to discover the islands of Hemingway, Thompson, and Buffett are in the long distant past. The authentic Caribbean is a militant third world country. That is an extreme way of making the point that eventually, amid geopolitical uncertainty, a counterculture movement, and the looming civil rights unrest, the American South was ripe for some escapism. 

The Mai Kai answered the call and exploded like gangbusters, clearing $1 Million in its first year. That’s in 1956 money. So many celebrities showed up that the restaurant began confiscating cameras at the door. Next time you attend a show and they make you put your phone in a bag realize this has been happening for a century. 

Another Beachcomber alum the brother’s Thornton poached was Chef Kenny Lee. Kenny’s $150 suckling pig luau meal was written about in Holiday and Esquire magazines fighting the stereotype of Tiki restaurants just rebranding Chinese food. As profound of a statement Kenny Lee made the source of adulation soon shifted to the bar. Mariano’s prolific drink menu not only captured the hearts and livers of patrons, but earned him a place among Caribbean mixology royalty. Soon he was traversing the West Indies giving seminars on how to mix rum drinks to the people who invented rum drinks! 

Listen back to the last episode for a more in depth revue of Mariano’s life and career, including his $100,000 daiquiri. One highlight that must be reiterated is that Mariano Licudine created the Mystery Drink. Upon ordering a Tahitian “Mystery Girl” would dance the drink over to the table, all pendulum hips and sultry eyes, place a lei around your neck, salaamed, and hula’d away to whence she came. Say what you want about exploiting and objectifying, this is just cool. Here in Nashville we have a robot themed Tiki bar called Chopper. If a scantily clad Polynesian chick delivered my drink doing the robot!; I would order that every time simply for the novelty factor! 

Mariano’s seminars, by way of the Mai Kai’s popularity, teaching how to turn the Caribbean’s native spirit into Tiki drinks spawned a movement that brought tourism back to the region. 20 years after the Mai Kai opened, in 1976, Vic Bergeron and our old pal Conrad Hilton even opened a Trader Vic’s in the Caribe Hilton in Puerto Rico where Mariano gave lessons to the inventors of the Pina Colada and Suffering Bastard. Mariano Licudine was the first celebrity Tiki bartender on the east coast. 

Eventually, the trend caught on as Florida overtook California as the epicenter of Tiki and tropical drinks. The diaspora of Tiki spread throughout Florida from Tampa to Key West to Orlando’s Trader Sam’s at Disney’s Polynesian Resort, where I first encountered the phenomenon as a child. But, Polynesian pervasion didn’t stop at bars. Growing up there, I can attest. Tiki iconography emblazoned hotels, apartment complexes, shopping centers, gift shops, beach shacks, and 3 for $10 knock-off t-shirts. It was an easy adoption as the essence of tropicalia already lived there. In some ways Tiki inspired the ho-hum of everyday Florida life to lean into its nature. Large tropical atriums sprang up in airports, businesses, and non-Tiki restaurants. Tropical became synonymous with Tiki. In the words of Beachbum Berry the Jack and Bob Thornton along with Kenny Lee and Mariano Licudine brought, “the faux tropical drink to the home of the real tropical drink.” 

In 1970 brother Jack suffered an aneurysm and sold his half of the Mai Kai to Bob. Under Bob’s reign the restaurant underwent massive expansion including more dining rooms, a stage for live luau’s, a gift shop, and the famous Molokai Bar - an island saloon. Its popularity garnered the Mai Kai a designation on the National Registry of Historic Places. Not bad for a made up paradise. 

In its heyday the Mai Kai was the largest independent user of rum in the U.S. The Tiki-Ti in California and the Mai Kai in Florida were the last two places in the country to get Don the Beachcomber’s original Tiki drinks. Until 2020. 

Here in Nashville tornados ravaged the east side, a car bomb exploded on 2nd Avenue on Christmas Morning, and the Pandemic kept us in solitude and kept my wife and I alighted on many rum punches. Even though the first episode of Pod Tiki dropped as an experimental side project in 2019 it was during lock-down that I dedicated serious time to making it an official show. It was also the time when a leaky roof finally gave way at the Mai Kai and in October of that year the Mai Kai was forced to close its doors. Thus, closing the entrance to Polynesian escapism that created a Tiki anomaly.

After much outcry from the community the Thornton family sold into a partnership with the Barlington Group, an investment company known for its work in historical preservation. Beginning in 2022 they broke ground on a refab and restoration project to reopen the Mai Kai. There is a wonderful article on FloridaRambler.com that I will link to in the sources that goes in depth on the progress and what to expect. I will say here that fans both old and new will be very happy with the outcome. Dining rooms, gardens, and the infamous Molokai Bar are being built out to not only match, but exceed, the previous offerings. 

Like most construction the project slated to open this summer has been delayed many times. I don’t know who’s slated to run the bar program but one things for certain. If they put as much care, love, and effort into the drinks as they are to proper restoration I believe we are all in for a treat. I hope to meet you all there for the grand opening where I’ll be enjoying one of Mariano’s Original tropical cocktails. 

Of which he created many. The recipe the royal we bring you tonight was created by Mariano around the time of the Mai Kai’s opening in 1956. One can see Donn Beach’s influence in its construction. A daiquiri split into its components - sugar, fruit, spirit - and and reimagined as a Tiki. I give you the Demerara Cocktail. 

Let’s make a Mariano Licudine fucking Tiki drink! 

For rums we’ll need a Demerara and a gold Puerto Rican. My favorite Demerara, one that I’m actually sipping right with a cigar as a write this, is Hamilton 86. I am lucky enough to have it available near me. If it’s not by you, first reach out to Ed and have him get it there, but Lemon Hart and El Dorado 8 yr are viable options. As far as gold PR, I usually go with Bacardi 8 yr, as it’s my favorite for sipping and mixing without breaking the bank. This time I chose the Puerto Rico version of Havana Club. It’s a solid 3 yr aged amber rum. It’s purportedly made in the style of the old Cuban Havana Club. It doesn’t hold up to the Cuban, but it does offer that fruity Caribbean rum flavor one should expect with a touch of age. There are some heavier flavors here that ensconce the rums so whatever your choice will suffice as long as it’s Puerto Rican. The crisp light notes are necessary to reach the desired flavor. If you’re looking for something bolder try a Barbados like Real McCoy or R.L. Seale. I don’t think Mariano would mind. He’s dead after all. 

The heavier flavor alluded to is passion fruit syrup. If you prefer to purchase a ready made may I suggest Liber & Co. But, if you’re a cheapass, like me, I make my own. Procure some frozen passion fruit puree from the supermarket or Spanish grocery, let it melt to a thick liquid, and mix it with equal parts simple syrup - a 1:1 water:raw cane sugar blend. 

Then we’ll need fresh lime juice and crushed ice. 

Mariano takes a simple daiquiri recipe, splits the rums, subs passion fruit syrup as the sugar, and adds lime and blends it with ice to dilute and cool the concoction. Here the recipe:

1 oz Demerara Rum

½ oz Gold Puerto Rican Rum

½ oz Passion Fruit Syrup

½ oz Lime Juice

4 oz Crushed Ice

Blend it all for no more than 5 seconds and double strain into a coup, cocktail glass, or small snifter. The secondary strain through a wire sieve is essential to keeping pesky ice chunks out of the drink. There’s no traditional garnish for this one. A few cherries on a pick works but it’s unnecessary. 

First impression is a quick cold snap followed by the great balance of fruit and rum. As it warms the drink thickens with flavors of ripe fruit, a familiar passion fruit bite that’s almost like mild spice, and the crisp but soft notes of Puerto Rican rum.

I think the point I was trying to make in the intro is that many very different versions of the tropics had to come together to create Tiki. Mainly Polynesia and the Caribbean, represented by California and Florida. The Mai Kai completed the cross-country Tiki railroad that finally unified the entire country, under rum, with barstools and Tiki for all. 

And to the people who say all the tropics look the same I say, If I’ve seen one beach I want to see them all. 

My name is Tony and this has been Pod Tiki.

Sources: thefloridarambler.com article - Mai-Kai Restaurant: Lovingly restored treasure to open late summer by: Deborah Hartz-Seeley, Sippin’ Safari by: Jeff “Beachbum” Berry